Sportsman Shirt, indigo twill métis
“The Sportsman” Catalog, Fall 2014
A new addition to our “Sportsman” line-up this Fall 2014 is an indigo twill métis shirt.
Using our classic Sportsman shirt pattern, we have once again put an old familiar face to work: our original indigo métis fabric, originally introduced sometime in 2011 with the Veste Ouvrier of “Les Apaches” collection.
Some of you might be familiar with other good use we have made of that fabric, such as the Sportsman Chinos, Pantalon Ouvrier, the Paletot Apache, the Chemise Hirondelle, and the Gilet de Ville de Depp de Hollywood…
 Photo courtesy of whoever took it When applied to textiles, the French word métis refers to a blend of cotton and linen fibers. Métis fabrics were used extensively by French country folks in the better part of the XXth Century, for both bedding and clothing. If hemp was never mixed with linen, cotton became its best companion due to the properties of the resulting ‘métissage’. In the old days, cotton/linen textiles were tough, affordable, washed easily… until poly fibers hit the fan.
On a side note, it has not escaped you that I have kept on spelling it wrong since launching our indigo twill in 2011. Indeed, it is métis, and not métisse. Mea culpa, I can now feel awsome again.
The fabric of our Sportsman shirt blends 70% cotton with 30% linen. Woven in a twill pattern, both warp and weft yarns are indigo dyed.
For those into naturally faded specimen of indigo-dyed clothing, here are some instances of what happens to our indigo métis over time.
We don’t get tired of our friend Tyler’s veste ouvrier, quite an epic example of what happens to workwear actually worked-in…
Our friend Mikko, from “Pancho and Lefty” in Sweden, has a neighbor who seems to enjoy wearing his Sportsman Chinos indigo métis quite regularly… These were purchased unwashed, and were originally the exact same color as our métis shirt…
Thank you for sharing, Gentlemen.
The Sportsman Shirt indigo twill métis is designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Fabric loomed in Japan.
PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by our vintage influences.
FABRIC:
Indigo Métis Twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early French indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light.
DETAILS:
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front.
* Original painted embossed metal buttons, combination solid and MFSC branding.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chain-stitch MF® signature.
* Side gussets.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
* Made in California, USA.
SIZING/WASHING:
This shirt comes raw/unwashed.
We recommend an original 30mn cold soak, spin dry, line dry. The shirt can be shaped by putting it on for a few minutes while still damp, then hung back to fully dry. This process with result in minimal shrinkage and almost no indigo color loss. The shirt might still feel a bit loose because it has not fully shrunk but will settle to the proper fit with subsequent normal wear/wash cycles.
We prefer this slower method over the hot water/heat dryer some use to make clothes fit.
I am a Medium in mfsc shirts and wear a Medium in the Sportsman métis.
Color croaking is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments such as white undershirts. Indigo rub-off washes off eventually, but is less than attractive when applied to arm pits. This is unfortunately the nature of the beast.
This indigo-dyed métis fabric is also very light sensitive. Protect garment from the sun if stored folded to avoid uneven fading.
When laundry is due, hand-wash inside out with mild detergent and line dry.
Please refer to chart for cold soak/line dry measurements. Keep in mind that our cold soak method results in minimal shrinkage.
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
RETAIL $329.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
OG-107 Man’s, Vest, Down
“The Sportsman” Fall 2014
Following the smashing debut of our OG-107 cotton sateen-back Sportsman Chinos, here is another MF® garment in the same Mil-Specs fabric.
Alert the media, it’s our first ever down vest! We had an opportunity for a down-filled garment a while back, but manufacturing was in China, and I had passed my comfort zone quota with the MF® x Palladium Palladenim experience, however pleased with the results.
After some research, we sourced a domestic qualified manufacturing facility, a place basically looking like a giant pillow fight.
If you are skilled at deciphering the Country of Origin of goods while navigating on-line stores, you might assume that there are not that many places manufacturing down-filled garments in the USA. Thankfully, in 2014, there are still a few domestic options left:
Respectable companies such as Sierra Designs or Nunatak offer a USA-made selection of down vests.
For the crafty types and bench-made fans, there’s always the DIY route. Start here to select your filling of choice.
Then you got the obscurely-named “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down”, the latest addition to the Mister Freedom® Sportsman catalog.
Our down vest is inspired by 1960’s-70’s outdoor garments and military gear, another case of civvies in Mil-Spec fabrics.
The shell is a “4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) 9 Oz. cotton back sateen”, similar to the fabric of the US Army M-51 field jackets, as introduced with our OG-107 cotton sateen-back chinos.
We opted for a rip-stop 100% cotton lining in a slightly different shade of Army green, for a subtle tonal contrast.
Don’t miss this helpful (often hysterical) perspective on the subject of which enigmatic green color was actually used by the US Army during WW2.
For more daltonian confusion, dig this excerpt from the Jan/Feb 1952 issue of the “Quartermaster Review”:
…” A further consideration in the matter of color of the general wear uniform is the fact that while the shade (O.D. #33) of the present service uniform was originally selected as a camouflage color for a field uniform, this type of color is no longer regarded as satisfactory from this standpoint. Research undertaken during World War II led to the adoption of a darker green color (O.D. #7) as the basic color of the combat uniform. This color has lately been modified slightly and a somewhat deeper shade with a slightly different cast (Olive Green #107) but otherwise very close to O.D. #7, has been adopted as the basic color for camouflage of the soldier’s combat uniform. Accordingly, there is no requirement for shade O.D #33 from a camouflage standpoint. Without this advantage, the only other basis for retaining this color would be a definite preference for this shade for the service uniform; such preference has not been strongly evidenced.“…
But again, this is a civilian garment, as we leave the reenactment gear to the serious guys.
So, with some older NOS signal orange cotton twill from the MF® stock, we added a ‘survival’ touch to our OD down vest, matching the vibe of our on-going “Sea Hunt” Collection. Both collar facing and inside pockets display that orange twill, bringing subbtle contrasting accents to this utilitarian-looking vest.
When stranded in dark woods , signal your presence by lifting that collar, should Elmer Fudd get overly trigger-happy.
Incomiiiiiing!!!
Our vest is quite fluffy. The filling is 90% down and 10% feathers. Overtime and with normal wear, the puffiness will lessen but this is a garment that definitely looks better on slender body types. I, myself, tend to look more like the Michelin man than Gary Cooper with it, granted the vest might not be the only culprit.
This down-filled garment is patterned with a vintage silhouette in mind, preferably worn with mid to high rise type bottoms. The lower rounded rear panel dips slightly, while the front of the garment follows the natural waist, typical of 50’s-60’s outdoor vests.
That length might not be ideal for those partial to the low-waist plumber’s look. Additionally, this vest might have too much of a Vietnam “FLAK Jacket” vibe for some with more modern aesthetics. Add to that a collar hinting to a buoyancy device and I believe I’ve sealed the deal.
But Travis Bickle and I like this vest, and not just because it makes for an excellent airplane/camping pillow.
“That’s right there sizzlechest, whatever you need sold I’ll sell it. I’m silly.”
The “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down” is designed and manufactured in the USA, by Mister Freedom® and Frank Rizzo, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, with fabrics loomed in Japan or vintage NOS.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage by 1960’s-70’s outdoor garments and military gear.
FABRIC:
Shell: Mil-specs Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green) 4/1 cotton back sateen, milled in Japan.
(Pantone Color approx reference would be 450 U)
Lining: 100% cotton rip-stop, (dark OD shade #41, or is it #31? #7?…), milled in Japan.
Collar facing/ inside pockets: Vintage NOS 100% cotton selvedge twill, signal orange, origin USA.
DETAILS:
* 1950′s-60’s type silhouette and fit.
* Sleeveless.
* 90% down and 10% feathers filling, horizontal quilting.
* Longer rear panel tail.
* OD painted metal snap front closure.
* Storm collar with signal orange accent.
* Hand-warmer pockets.
* Two inside pockets.
* Genuine paracord hanger loop.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/WASHING:
The “OG-107 Vest, Man’s, Down” are sold RAW (unwashed) and should stay that way.
They are true-to-size. I am usually a Medium/38 in mfsc garments and wear a Medium in the vest, with not much extra room for a couscous royal when snapped closed.
Light superficial stains can be spot-cleaned and sponged off with a damp cloth and mild soap.
However, when needed, we recommend professional dry cleaning by an eco-friendly facility familiar with down-filled garments.
Do NOT boil. Do NOT throw in the washer on ‘heavy-duty’.
Refer to charts below for measurements:
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
XX-Large (44)
RETAIL $349.95
Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any areas not covered above, such as the couscous royal recipe.
As always, thank you truly for your support.
OG-107 Cotton Sateen-back Chino Trousers
“The Sportsman” Fall 2014
This might come as a surprise to the original gangster in cell 107, but OG-107 is a reference to the shade #107 of Olive Green that the US Army had settled on as the color of its uniforms, sometime in the early 1950’s. It became by extension a nickname for the set of utilities the issued to military personnel.
For those who enjoy discussing shades of green in the military at the family dinner table, here is a good starting point for interesting historical facts and references, such as:
…”On 7 April 1950, the Uniform Board presented its first uniform display to the General Staff. In order to provide a wide range of color choices, the QMC dressed mannequins in 31 uniforms of different color combinations but of similar design. Among the colors were the 16 shades of gray-green, three shades of gray, five of blue, and one of taupe. For comparison, the uniform line-up included the existing olive-drab and green and pink Army uniforms, and the Navy, Air Force, Marine Corps and U.S. Military Academy uniforms.“…
Follow this insider’s scoop by this piece of goodness, for more than you are probably willing to read about OD vs. OG, Army Green 44 vs. Olive Drab shade 7…
Please keep in mind that the more punctilious the regulations, the more arguably accurate the dye batches and paint mixes delivered by contracted manufacturers. Wartime production crunch time didn’t help either.
Back on point, I’d love to tell you we raided an abandoned storage brick building around the Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot and scored a few rolls of NOS mil-specs OG cotton sateen fabric for our “Sportsman” chinos… Instead, we settled for a yardage batch from the folks at Buzz Rickson’s, who know a thing or two about period mil-specs textiles.
One might be familiar with this specific fabric, technically a “4/1 (four warp up, one weft down) 9 Oz. cotton back sateen”, as it is similar to the shell part of the US Army M-51 field jacket (save for the water-repellent treatment and the shade of green).
Because we were more preoccupied with getting an even tan than with re-inventing the wheel this summer, we decided to roll with our classic Sportsman chinos pattern, the flat felled side seam type. Already available in several fabric options the entire World envies us for, we are adding the OG-107 chinos to the catalog for Fall 2014, a civvy garment in a military fabric.
These pants have a late 1950’s type silhouette, quite comfortable by today standards. They won’t prevent blood flow to the lower limbs, offering just enough room for an occasional mawashi geri on Black Friday.
The Sportsman OG-107 Chinos are designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, fabric loomed in Japan.
Please note that production comes without ID stencils on the waistband facing.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants.
FABRIC: Mil-specs Olive Green #107 shade (grayish-green) 4/1 cotton back sateen
(An approx. Pantone Color reference would be 450 U)
DETAILS:
* Relaxed 1950′s type silhouette and fit.
* Natural corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Flat-felled side seam construction.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* The ever charming ‘crotch gusset’.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* Natural color 100% cotton sail cloth pocket bags, waist band and fly facing.
* Watch pocket, for which you will have to find a use.
* Tonal 100% cotton thread construction, with inside green chainstich MF® signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/WASHING:
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size. The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size. This OG107 issue feels slightly slimmer than other Sportsman chinos versions, such as its Beach Chino twill or Indigo Métisse comrades, partly because of the flat felled outside seam construction vs. the plain seam type.
The bottom are left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch cuff, regular single needle machine stitch.
This cotton fabric is pretty low maintenance. Original cold soak and line dry. Further washing when needed, on gentle cycle, warm/cold water, line dry. If you insist on the heat dryer, turn trousers inside out to avoid issues with an undesirable ‘marbling’ effect.
Time between laundry will vary greatly according to one’s occupation and common sense: wash when dirty.
Refer to charts below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:
Available RAW/unwashed.
Waist Sizes: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $289.95
Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
 Hayadoin, 1931  Gift from Mike “Jeans of the Old West” Harris, date unknown.  Bingo, anyone? 1929 
Hello.
So we will briefly interrupt our summer of field trips with donkeys and beach blanket bingo events to introduce a few additions to the Mister Freedom® “The Sportsman” Fall 2014 catalog.
All made in USA, available on www.misterfreedom.com sometime in Sept/Oct 2014.
The sales pitch this season:
“When you come across something you don’t need, occasionally remind yourself not to purchase it.”
Happy Summer! 😉
cl
We now have strong reasons to believe that one of the suspects of the Mister Freedom® 2013 Sportsman shirt line-up was not colorfast.
Beware that should you chose to wear this garment outside after sunrise, the Indigo popeline culprit will start changing color. Literally within an hour.
Exposure to the sun, normal wear and the necessary home laundries will not help its case.
Messieurs, you have been war-ned.
Mister Freedom®. Yet another case clo-sed: For the ‘worn look’, wear the clothes.
|
