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Raw Ranch Blouse Lot.64
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Rinsed Ranch Blouse Lot.64
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MF® Ranch Blouses ©2013
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Holding the wall ©2010
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“See, Tom, the problem is that you’re making us look bad”
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“Well, first you need more hair”
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“Then you work it like a pro”
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“But that’s enough about me”
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“Look, it’s easy”
The “RANCH BLOUSE” Lot.64 Sportsman Edition
MFSC FW 2013
We’ve had requests… but we made another denim jacket anyways.
Following our original ‘Ranch Blouse‘ made from some twenty-two different NOS selvedge denim types, here is the ‘Sportsman Edition’ of that fine jacket.
To make everyone’s life easier we have settled on ONE denim twill, the same we used for our Californian Lot.64 blue jeans, a sturdy 13.75 Oz. right hand twill selvedge denim, milled in Japan, known to some as the SC 1966.
When originally deciding to crowd the denim world with yet another jacket sometime in 2010, we combined vintage influences ranging from the three majors LLW to some more obscure now-defunct work wear off-brands. Again, no wheel got reinvented, we just added some MF® flava to a well established classic, tweaking things to our liking.
 Early 2010 Ranch Blouse prototype Our denim Sportsman ‘Ranch Blouse’ has a 1930’s ~ 1940’s flare with the traditional bell and whistle ie. the pleated front and the buckle back.
The denim ol’ timers will know but, for the new comers, the front pleats were originally not a fashion statement. In early types of work cotton twill jackets (canvas or denim), front expansion pleats meant more room to the wearer. The stitching was just there to keep the pleats in place, and removed or pulled if needed.
My own Ranch Blouse has seen the table of the sewing machine several times over the past two years, following the vicissitudes of its aging owner’s belly.
The 1920’s influenced round collar of our denim jacket was never a staple in ‘trucker’ type jackets to my knowledge, although I have since then seen several contemporary denim companies implementing that detail on their jackets. Some famous brand even used both round collar shape and our arrow head darts pleat stitching. As always, we’re flattered…
For this Sportsman Edition, we have added some concealed goodness in the form of NOS indigo ‘Wabash’ type fabric, for both the collar and pocket flap facing. Only you will know, but that’s the idea.
The 100% cotton stitching consists of a color combination of yellow and orange thread, in what appears to be a random manner but is actually a confusing and long list of instructions for the Los Angeles factory.
The two front pockets are lower than usual chest pockets, allowing the wearer to use both shirt and jacket pockets without creating too much bulk.
Branding comes in the form of a yellow “M” stitched on the front pockets, which is probably what McDonald’s would do if they made a denim jacket. May we never know.
Also, for ze Ladies, we made a few size 34 😉
As a patina example I have added my original 2011 Ranch Blouse in some photos. It still has plenty miles to go, as NO chemicals or nasty sanding was involved in the fading process.
For those on a mission to the ultimate fade, I believe it is less about the denim itself than what you do with it and the way it fits you. I have seen some great fades on contemporary non-selvedge jeans, made from non-premium denim and originally sold unwashed. Motion, not ocean.
Having awesome whiskers and tracks reaches obsession status sometimes, however, the process of wearing a well and ethically made garment that fits fine should be plenty satisfying, fade or no fade.
Designed and made in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, part of our “The Sportsman” catalog.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original mfsc pattern, influenced by early denim ‘trucker’ type jackets.
FABRIC: 13 3/4 Oz selvedge indigo denim. Right hand twill. White/pink selvedge ID. Milled on shuttle looms in Japan. Aka SC1966.
Under collar and under pocket flap lining: NOS 100% cotton indigo ‘wabash’ type twill.
DETAILS:
* Early round-type collar, A-1 style.
* ‘Vintage’ boxy but fit silhouette.
* Original MF® chest pocketing with “M” stitching. There was just no room for the “F”.
* Selvedge front panel fold.
* Wabash type twill lining for collar and pocket flap.
* Metal cast MF® branded buttons, ‘oxidized’.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked, leather washer.
* Original mfsc printed cloth label. You’ll notice we don’t even have our full brand name on that label… Oops.
* Made in USA
SIZING/WASHING:
We recommend an original 30mn cold soak, spin dry and hang dry. You can briefly put the jacket on when damp, to give it (your) body, then hang to dry. Once fully dry the denim will be quite stiff from the starch, which is a good thing as this ‘sets’ some creases. You’re on your way to a pleasing patina after repeat wear.
The Sportsman “Ranch Blouse” comes UN-WASHED and “oversized” (aka shrink-to-fit) so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an original cold soak/line dry.
I wear a 38 in the Ranch Blouse, and it has the old school fit I like after the original cold soak.
Refer to chart for raw/rinsed measurements (please note that, although really not recommended, more shrinkage is to be expected if you ‘boil’ your jacket and machine dry it.)
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY
Sizes 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44
Retail $369.95
Please email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered in the above ramblings. Available for purchase on www.misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support, always.
The “CAMP” Shirt, printed brushed flannel
“The Sportsman” Collection. Made in USA.
MFSC Fall 2013
Woven plaid flannel shirts have been a staple of many labels comes Fall. A bit more neglected than its woven sister is the printed plaid flannel shirt…
Printed flannel fabrics were popular in the 1940’s-50’s. Fabric printing being less costly than weaving and looming, printed flannel garments made it to store shelves in shapes of outdoor/work/western shirts, robes, pajamas, sleeping bags liners, hunting jackets linings…
Some prints were novelty types graphics but many were a trompe-l’œil that looked like woven patterns: tartans, plaids, herringbone, houndstooth, gingham… A combination of ink and discharge prints made the plain weave flannel fabrics look fancily woven from a distance.
The inspiration for our “Camp” shirt print was a vintage early 1950s flannel men’s robe (made by Montgomery Ward label “Brent’s”). I played with the original red color combo to come up with a ‘plausible’ second color option that didn’t exist in the catalog.
I had thought of making a robe but was soon punched in the face during a board meeting. I then decided to make shirts instead… It’s all about communication around here.
We sourced out some fine cotton flannel (selvedge, since we wanted to use the selvedge on the gussets) and it went through the lengthy process or getting dyed, printed and brushed (for a soft nap touch) in Japan before getting shipped to Los Angeles.
The shirts were then cut/sewn in a clean, ethically run factory, under the California sun.
The “Camp” adds itself to the “Sportsman” shirting catalog, our on-going concept introduced in 2012.
We are using our Sportsman shirt pattern, already available in indigo popeline, stripe ticking and chambray. This Fall, the painted metal snap buttons (by DOT) are a nod to vintage 50’s Wrangler or Ranchcraft western plaid shirts. Please note our ‘Camp” shirt is not a western cut/yoke type shirt.
The “Camp” displays our Sportsman signature green chainstitch on the inside, seen on the ‘very Christmas like’ dangling gusset run-offs.
Those of you familiar with old beat-up vintage 50’s printed flannel shirt know that they age well and look amazing with patina, once the print starts wearing off from slow abrasion, wash and wear and sun exposure. Don’t get too excited, that takes years wear of course. And in the field, not on the sofa.
Just something to think about if you have children. They are today making fun of your clothes but will someday proudly wear them when you have done all the breaking-in 😉
Designed and made in the USA by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage outdoor/workwear shirting.
FABRIC
100% cotton brushed flannel, dyed and ink/discharge printed in Japan.
Two color options
a)Red plaid
b)Black plaid
DETAILS
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original MF® chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front, metal painted DOT snaps.
* MFSC branded original embossed metal buttons for neck band closure.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count, tonal.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich MF® “Sportsman” signature.
* Side gussets with selvedge fabric.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
SIZING/WASHING
As most times with our clothes, these shirts come RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size.
I wear a Medium in all MF® shirts, and wear Medium in the Camp shirt as well.
Although 100% cotton, this flannel fabric has quite a bit of ‘mechanical stretch’ after being rinsed and dried, therefore adjusting itself slightly to the wearer.
For cleaning, we recommend cold water wash on gentle cycle and hang dry.
Please note that the shirts in the chart below were cold rinsed and fully machine dried, for your shrinkage reference only. Again we recommend hang drying them.
Available from our brand spanking new online store
Raw/unwashed
Size Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large
Retail $299.95
Made in USA
For any questions please Email [email protected] or call the store at 323) 653-2014
Thank you for the support.
The “CAMPUS CARDIGAN”, Sportsman Collection
Mister Freedom® x Ohio Knitting Mills
Walking past a table of folded vintage 1950’s cable knit shirts last year at ‘Inspiration’ in Long Beach, I noticed the “Ohio Knitting Mills, Since 1927″ sign on the booth.
I’ve always loved these shirts, having first seen one in the 80’s on the cover of the ACE Records “Hollywood Rock’n’Roll” LP, featuring that famous photo of two thirsty fellas from the Booze Fighters MC in 1947…
Turns out, “if it was knitted, wool or cotton, it was probably from OKM” said Steven Tatar, now running the show at Ohio Knitting Mills.
Well maybe they made this one too?
I’ll call Sophia later, back on topic…
We spoke regarding a potential future MF® x OKM project… and months later decided to put words into actions. And that’s how the journey of the “Campus Cardigan” started…
Wool, as i was about to learn, is similar to denim. In the sense that not all is created equal.
I also was about to get some tech terms thrown at me. A ‘Milanese stitch having to be attached to a jersey body‘?… Soprano material to me. But not to Mr Tatar.
As for inspiration for the project, I used a cream color vintage 50’s Letterman sweater, found a while back. I liked that it didn’t have the ‘Frankie Lymon & the Teeenager’ vibe, but rather a versatile cardigan for grown-ups vibe with interesting construction and unusual details that still looked ‘simple’ and not overly designed.
I also had attempted to indigo dye that vintage sweater, since when I get going, anything that doesn’t move is a potential candidate for getting thrown in the vat.
 
Not being sure what to expect with wool, I was happily surprised with the result.
Well all that sounded like a good challenging puzzle for our new collaboration.
And a challenge it was, for all involved.
From sourcing the right unbleached domestic wool, spinning the yarn to specs, milling, cutting, sewing, solving construction challenges, adjusting patterns and machines… to the (fun part for us) indigo dyeing…
We wanted the buttons to remain their original natural color (and not get dyed, as seen on the 1rst prototype shown in some of the photos), so, finally sewing on the corozo buttons and dual labels was quite satisfying.
The natural wool yarn OKM sourced has a beautiful ‘slubby’ texture and subtle color variation. This makes the natural color option as interesting as the second color option… Indigo.
Back in California, we put some long hours into relentlessly dipping the heavy pre-soaked/dye-ready sweaters in our indigo vat. One by one, some 3 or 4 dips depending on the resulting hue, stopping only when we thought the indigo color looked nice. The result of that ordeal is an assortment of various shades of blue that will change overtime, with wear and outside exposure.
INDIGO PHOTOS
Designed by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Ohio Knitting Mills. All made in USA by OKM. Indigo vat dyed in California.
Thanks Steve, Paula and the OKM team for their expertise and for making this project happen.
SPECS:
PATTERN: Inspired by a vintage 1950’s Letterman wool sweater, cardigan type. ‘Dropped shoulders’ pattern. Single wrap body panel (no side seams). Relaxed silhouette.
FABRIC: unbleached 100% wool knit jersey, American yarn spun and milled in the USA.
Two options:
a) Natural
b) Indigo
DETAILS:
* Wool Jersey body and sleeves, ribbed end knit.
* Single piece body wrap knit (no side seam).
* Milanese knit button placket.
* Wide wrist knit cuffs for roll-up.
* Fold over double layer pockets.
* Blind stitched bottom hem, folded end knit.
* Natural Corozo buttons, aka vegetable ivory or coconut wood.
SIZING/CARE:
I could go with a Small, but decided to wear a Medium, for layering options with heavier shirts/henleys this winter…
The natural option comes unwashed. The indigo has been rinsed. The loose jersey knit tends to stretch slightly after being rinsed and dried. The sweater will eventually adapt to your body with repeat wear, looking more natural than it did on the first day. This is normal.
Refer to the charts below for measurements.
 Size Chart NATURAL
 Size Chart INDIGO When needed, the “Campus Cardigan” can be hand washed in cold water, with minimal mild detergent. NO machine wash, NO boiling. Machine spin dry, then lay the sweater on a towel, flipping it around until dry. NO electrical/gas dryer. The sweater is quite heavy when wet, so do not hang dry on a hanger, as this will result in unattractive stretching…
Your sweater can also be professionally dry cleaned.
Same care for the natural or indigo options, making sure you wash the indigo by itself, as bleeding will occur for some time.
DISCLAIMER: Due to the natural of indigo dyeing, some color rub-off will occur on light color shirting worn underneath the indigo cardigan, noticeably in the armpits .
This crocking should eventually stabilize, and also eventually wash off stained garments.
All this comes with Indigo Territory.
Available sizes:
Small, Medium, Large, X-Large
Retail:
a) Natural $399.95
b) Indigo $449.95 (ordering this option may take some time should we run out, as we are not sure when we will be able to do another dye batch.)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
[email protected] will gladly answer any questions unanswered above 😉
Thank you always for your support.
As previously introduced for Spring 2013, “The Sportsman” concept is about the feeling of walking into an old pre-70’s Army/Navy surplus store, with its stacks of Americana bits and pieces, piles of New Old Stock ‘unfashionable’ clothes…
Production should be hitting Mister Freedom® store sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
This Fall 2013 line-up is the second volume of the “Sportsman” and introduces the following items, all made in the USA.
* “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans Lot.64:
13.75 Oz. right hand twill 3×1 selvedge denim
* “RANCH BLOUSE” Lot.64:
13.75 Oz. right hand twill 3×1 selvedge denim
* “CAMP ” Flannel Snap Shirt:
Two color ways of an original printed flannel fabric
a) Red
b) Black
* “CAMPUS CARDIGAN”
An original collaboration with famed Ohio Knitting Mills (Founded in 1927. Cleveland, Ohio)
Two color options
a) Natural wool yarn
b) Indigo dyed wool yarn
* “APPALOOSA” Denim Snap Shirt:
10 Oz. selvedge 2×1 denim
* Last but not least, an endeavor that made us feel that Shackelton had it easy, the “CAMPUS JACKET”:
Natural cowhide
Thank you for tuning in.
Happy Summer 😉
“The SPORTSMAN CHINOS”
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co, ‘The Sportsman’ Collection
MFSC Spring 2013
Having introduced ‘The Sportsman’ concept collection with our “Sportsman Shirt” and “Skivvy Shirt” earlier this month, we’ll get right into this new addition for Spring 2013. Aren’t you happy, no rambling this time 😉
The ‘SPORTSMAN CHINOS’ are another Mister Freedom® take on a beloved classic, using some signature details we like. Simple design, a non-trendy MF® interpretation of traditional work-meets-casual pants.
The pattern we used is very similar to that of the denim “Frontier Chinos“, made this time in a durable selvedge ‘chino’ cotton twill, milled in Japan.
Designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants and 1950’s cotton slacks.
FABRIC:
Raw 100% cotton selvedge ‘Chino’ twill, ‘honey’ color, milled in Japan on shuttle looms.
DETAILS:
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed 1950’s type silhouette and fit, mid-rise.
* Corozo wood button fly and top waist button.
* Selvedge leg side seams.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* NOS hickory stripe 100% cotton twill pocket bags, origin USA.
* Natural 100% cotton sailcloth waist band and fly facing.
* Chino twill selvedge fold on inside front slash pockets.
* Watch pocket, that no one ever uses to put a watch in.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Featuring the ever attractive sounding ‘Crotch gusset’.
* Vintage USN web belt NOT included, but you knew that.
SIZING/WASHING:
These pants should be pretty low maintenance, but we still recommend gentle cold wash and line dry. The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and are not sanforized, they will shrink to tagged size.
The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size. These are not tights, but man pants.
Like with vintage good quality cotton khaki twill pants, the “Sportsman Chinos’ will lighten up gradually in color and soften up to ‘butter status’ with repeat wash/wear.
Refer to chart below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL $289.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
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