Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER Collection.

The making of:
historical & visual inspiration / vintage clothing references / behind-the-scene design process / R&D (2023)

 

 

FW2024 Show, Toyo Enterprise HQ in Ryogoku, Tokyo, Japan.
March 5-7, 2024:

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER line-up:

 

MF® TORPEDO Jacket, black cowhide, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (USA):

MF® BRIDGE Sweater, indigo cotton knit, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

 

 

MF® CPO Shirt “Bubblehead”, Okinawa fiber denim, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

 

MF® TOPSIDERS, NOS cotton-linen moss denim, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (USA):

 

MF® SKIPJACK Overshirt, indigo cotton x wool selvedge denim, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

 

 

MF® BARRACUDA Jacket, Melton wool, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

 

 

MF® HOLMAN Trou, cotton HBT Jacquard natural & indigo, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (USA):

 

MF® FAIRWATER SUB Duffle, charcoal HBT wool, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

 

 

MF® SECOYA Shirt, cotton tartan, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

 

MF® MARSUB Work Jacket, “Midnight” indigo  twill, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

MF® LOOKOUT Watch Cap, indigo cotton knit, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

 

MF® SEAWOLF Trou, indigo cotton wool twill, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (JP):

 

MF® SHIP CAP, NOS cotton-linen denim, FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER (USA):

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER Collection:

FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER Story/Line-up:
This Fall, we are paying tribute to the “Silent Service”, diving into the undersea world of vintage international military submarines and their crews, 1930s~1950s.

Historical WW2 background:
Due to the extreme hardship of life undersea for submarine service enlisted men during wartime — 20% casualty rate (the highest of any US forces in WW2), outdated vessels, faulty torpedoes, vulnerability to both air raids and naval anti-sub depth charges, long patrols, sub crews 24/7 “can-do” attitude, long war patrols, scarcity of individual rewards/medals, close quarters and limited space, humidity, poor air quality, crewmen hygiene (1 brief shower every 10 days, no laundry), boat stench, boredom, social isolation, … — most Navy sub skippers tended to be lenient regarding regulations while their boat was underway.

Period photos, rare filmed footage and written accounts depict all kinds of outfits being worn by patrolling sub crews. Sleeveless USN chambray work shirts, cut-off dungarees, skivvies or shirtless, no covers, private-purchase clothes… with the added unusual look of bushy beards and wild non-reg hairdos after long patrols. Officers simply wore khakis.

Because of the known risks shared by all submarine crews, on both side of the WW2 conflict, the level of respect for the enemy was generally high between Navies.

A Sub patrol duties spanned from directly engaging a man-of-war, sinking supply ships, spying on convoys, tracking enemy activity, inserting invading land troops on remote beaches, extracting scouting parties, rescuing downed air pilots (aka “lifeguarding zoomies” in submariners jargon, 504 airmen rescued in WW2), etc… The levels of stealth vs. full open confrontation giving away a sub’s location obviously differed in all those missions.

“Formality did not flourish aboard submarines where performance counted more than appearance.”
David A. Jones “US Silent Service, Dolphins & Combat Insignia 1924-1945”

During WW2, many US Navy subs were sent on “Search & Rescue” missions, with the task of picking up downed airmen or stranded surface ship crews lost at sea. Friends (allies) and foes (enemy forces) could then end-up on the same boat — literally —, heading back to Sub Base, or for the nearest POW camp. Collecting an eclectic mix of enemy uniforms as souvenirs was not uncommon. After a sub-to-sub battle at sea, a victorious US Navy sub crew may find itself underway homebound with U-Boat prisoners on board…
A famous photo series of the captured German U-Boat U-175 crew aboard the USCGC Spencer in 1943 shows another uniform swap practice, with some of the rescued Kriegsmariners warming up in a range of US Navy deck jackets.

Vintage references:
* United States Undersea Museum (1 Garnett Way, Keyport, Washington 98345)
* The Silent Service in World War II: The Story of the U.S. Navy Submarine Force in the Words of the Men Who Lived It
* Drachinifel Youtube channel

The USN Pacific Submarine Campaign – The Dark Year (Dec’41 – Dec’42)
The USN Pacific Submarine Campaign – The Struggle is Real (Jan’43 – Jun’43)
https://www.drachinifel.co.uk/

Our mfsc fictitious story:
Mixing design elements and tailoring influences from several sub/surface Naval forces (a range of International Navies: US, British, French, Australian, German…), we are revisiting the approach of our original 2008 mfsc “Naval Clothing Tailor” story, and applying it to a fictional US Navy Submariner (pronounced subma-rEE-ner, and not sub-MAriner) during his deployments in the Pacific Fleet Submarines and Submarine Force Atlantic.
While at Sub Base or on leave in exotic locations, our fictitious “Bubblehead” (as surface sailors known as “Skimmers” affectionately nickname submariners) would get custom uniforms made, blending civilian and military styles, regulation and non-reg fabrics, and mixing American, Australian, European, or Axis naval uniform styles.

For FW2024, our “Bubblehead” seabag consists of:

1) FAIRWATER Duffle Coat (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: inspired by traditional vintage British duffle coats, 1940s Royal Navy issued duffle coats, and original 1941 USN Submarine HBT wool jackets.
Fabric: Double-layer (double cloth) HBT wool, 30 Oz., charcoal color. With wear, the wide-weave herringbone pattern will gradually appear. Milled in Japan. Fabric inspired by ultra-rare original 1941 USN Navy Submarine coats.
Specs:
* Hip-length.
* Round collar with chinstrap.
* Fully unlined, all clean seams, twill backing tape.
* Wood toggles, twisted linen rope.
* Two concealed chest pockets.
Sizing:  CL wears sample Medium (will wear Small in prod.)
Note: The Fairwater (or “Conning Tower”, or “Sail”) of a submarine is the command room (or “brain center”), the small “tower” structure on top of the boat, mostly known to old war movie watchers as the place the periscope comes out of (“Up scope!!”), with the classic Hollywood scene of a tense radarman monitoring the green oscillating ping of enemy presence on a black screen, “watching the sound”!

2) TORPEDO Jacket (USA):
ETA: Dec 2024
Pattern: Loosely inspired by WW2 U-Boat Kriegsmarine reefer-style leather jackets, and based on an American vintage 1930s-40s civilian sportswear leather jacket.
Shell: Veg-tan black tea-core cowhide. Same grade as MF® Campus “Stallion” and Ranch Blouse “Ringo”.
Body lining: NOS woven plaid cotton flannel (sleeve lining: NOS woven cotton dobby stripe)
Specs:
* High five-button front style.
* Notched lapel with “stand collar” option.
* Arcuate front yokes.
* Double hip flap pockets.
* 30s style split-back expansion gusset (action-back).
* Half-belt back.
* Corrozo wood buttons/keyhole button holes.
* Gusseted button cinch cuffs.
Sizing:  CL will potentially wear 38 (Medium), TBD.
Note: Charles A. Lockwood, iconic figure in WW2 US Navy submarine history, and adored by both his men and superiors, had his first command in 1919 on an ex-German sub U-97, in order to evaluate enemy U-Boats performances.)

3) BRIDGE Sweater (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: inspired by vintage 1960s USN Deck wool knit sweaters (No. DSA-1-6978-T-65)
We replaced the original navy blue wool knit with indigo cotton knit, extended cuff length and adjusted the fit.
Fabric: 100% cotton knit, indigo-dyed. Milled in Japan.
Specs:
* Traditional high neck naval style, ribbed knit.
* Slim fit, can be worn as layer under overshirt.
* Seamless ribbed waistband.
* Long early style foldable ribbed knit cuffs.
Sizing:  CL wears Small.
Note: The “Bridge” part of a submarine is the top of the Fairwater/Conning Tower, where the boat is controlled when on the surface.

4)  SKIPJACK Overshirt (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: inspired by vintage sportswear outdoor wool overshirts (Eddie Bauer, Woolrich, etc), revisited.
Fabric: fancy 50/50 cotton/wool narrow shuttle loom selvedge denim, 15.5 Oz. Warp = 100% cotton indigo yarn. Weft = 100% dark grey wool yarn. White with red line selvedge ID, with selvedge concealed inside cuffs. Milled in Japan.
Fabric care: this denim twill is sanforized (aka pre-shrunk). Treat as premium denim, turn inside out before laundering, gentle wash cycle, line dry.
Sizing:  CL wears Small, or potentially Medium if layering.
Specs:
* Original front/back “floating” shoulder yoke, “western” arcuate style.
* Double chest pockets, yoke flap.
* Cotton twill tape collar/button placket facing.
* Corrozo wood buttons.
Sizing:  CL wears Small.
Note: On the Atlantic front, U-Boat crews often wore private-purchase sportswear wool shirt on patrols. The term SKIPJACK is a reference to the USS Skipjack (SS-184), later a Class of submarines.

5) SEAWOLF Trousers (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: inspired by vintage 1960s USN navy blue wool Trousers, Undress Blues, zipper fly, wrap leg. Classic 1930s-40s style wide leg silhouette.
Cut similar to HOLMAN Trou (trousers), but with slash front pockets/rear welt pockets, and dressier. Matching set with the SKIPJACK Overshirt.
Fabric: fancy 50/50 cotton/wool narrow shuttle loom selvedge denim, 15.5 Oz. Warp = 100% cotton indigo yarn. Weft = 100% dark grey wool yarn. White with red line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Fabric care: this denim twill is sanforized (aka pre-shrunk). Treat as premium denim, turn inside out before laundering, gentle wash cycle, line dry.
Pocketing/waistband lining: Pincheck fabric inspired by a pair of vintage 1920s USN broadfall Undress Blues trousers.
Specs:
* Period naval cut, fitted top block with wide leg silhouette, classic AF.
* High waisted.
* Naval style wrap leg.
* Zipper fly closure, brass zip.
* Overlocked seam construction for easy alteration.
* Selvedge used in welt back pocket construction, concealed.
Sizing:  CL wears W30.
Note: The name is a reference to the USS Seawolf (SS-197)

6) CPO Shirt “BUBBLEHEAD” (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: similar to our iconic 2008 mfsc Liberty CPO, without the Liberty treatment.
Fabric: Okinawa fiber denim, fancy blend of 50% cotton x 50% sugarcane fibers, 11 Oz., white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Specs:
* Intricate shirt tailoring, 1930s-40s period custom style.
* Original pocket design.
* Reinforcement shoulder yoke.
* Arcuate “western” back yoke.
* Chin strap.
* Black cotton twill collar/button placket facing.
* Fancy scalloped cuff pattern.
* Classic USN fouled anchor plastic buttons.
* Concealed chest pocket.
* Tonal stitching.
Sizing:  CL wears Medium.
Note: “Bubblehead” is military slang for a US Navy Submariner.

7) HOLMAN Trousers (USA):
ETA: Postponed
This garment may be postponed or cancelled, due to issues with availability of fabric.
Pattern: based on vintage 1950s USN White Service Trousers (Undress White), wrap leg, flat front, button fly. Added rear patch pockets.
Cut similar to SEAWOLF Trou, but with more of a vintage USN dungarees vibe/design.
Fabric: fancy jacquard herringbone twill, 100% cotton, 10 Oz., milled in USA. Natural HBT and indigo HBT options.
Pocketing: NOS woven stripe fabric, 100% cotton.
Specs:
* Vintage traditional naval wrap leg pattern.
* Period 1930s-40s cut, fitted top block with wide leg silhouette, also classic AF.
* High waisted.
* Flat front, two front waistband welt pockets.
* Two back pockets, utilitarian patch style.
* Simple overall construction, with waist size easily altered with a single-needle machine.
* Corrozo wood “cat eye” style button.
* Tonal stitching.
Sizing:  CL wears W30 (pictured samples are W32)
Note: The name is a reference to “Jake Holman”, McQueen’s character name in The Sand Pebbles, who wore a pair in the movie.
WW2 US Navy enlisted men uniform references here.

8) LOOKOUT Watch Cap,  “Liberty” edition (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: inspired by vintage USN wool watch caps, revisited.
Fabric: 100% cotton indigo-dyed knit, milled in Japan.
Specs:
* Three distinct and continuous knit patterns: six-dart needle-out crown / ribbed knit body / pearl knit hem.
* Shallow profile silhouette with wide fold, to avoid the “ski cap” look.
* Woven mfsc rayon label exposed, backed with concealed old style USN mermaid “Liberty” patch to store a folded bill.
* One size.

9) BARRACUDA Jacket, “Blue Nose” (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: inspired by a vintage sportswear 1930s navy blue melton wool zip jacket.
Fabric: 26 Oz. navy blue Melton wool, blend of 90% wool x 10% nylon, milled in Japan.
Facing accents: Pincheck fabric inspired by a pair of vintage 1920s USN broadfall Undress Blues trousers.
Specs:
* Unlined, 1930s-style taped seams.
* Nautical vibe rounded collar.
* Gusseted shoulder back, action-swing style.
* Vintage style brass zipper.
* Leather side cinch tabs.
* Removable leather chin strap.
* Slash hip pockets.
* Inside double chest pockets.
* Adjustable cuffs.
* Concealed Liberty-style “Blue Nose” mfsc octopus cuffs, stores a folded bill.
Sizing:  CL will wear Small (pictured sample is Medium)
Note: “Blue Nose” = submariner who has crossed the Arctic Circle, similar status of a “Shellback” mariner who has crossed “the line” (=Equator).

10) MAR-SUB Work Jacket (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: inspired by ~60s/70s MARSUM blue cotton twill work jacket (workwear brand from Switzerland, established 1826). Vintage French workwear vibe, good for layering.
Fabric: “Midnight” denim, 100% cotton, indigo warp x black weft, 16 Oz., white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Facing accents: Pincheck fabric inspired by a pair of vintage 1920s USN broadfall Undress Blues trousers.
Specs:
* Classic EU workwear style vibe, hip length.
* High button front closure, corrozo wood buttons.
* Four front patch pockets, hip/chest.
* Rounded nautical collar.
* Fabric selvedge used in cuff construction, concealed.
* Removable chin strap (show sample size of chin strap will be scaled down in production.)
Sizing:  CL wears Small (pictured sample is Medium)
Note: The name MAR-SUB is a play on the original MARSUM label name. (Mar also means sea in Spanish.)

11) MF® SHIP CAP (USA):
ETA: Available now
Pattern: inspired by classic US Navy ship caps (aka command ball caps), available from the ship’s PX.
Fabric: NOS selvedge denim, 61% cotton x 39% hemp, Candiani Mill (since 1938), Italy.
Specs:
* Six-panel ball cap style.
* Old school lower profile.
* Taped inside seams.
* Customize with your own favorite patch!

12) SECOYA Shirt (JP):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: inspired by a 1940’s STURDY OAK work chambray with elaborate “Double-Panel” construction, and a 1930’s pull-over chin-strap work chambray with no label.
Fabric: original mfsc 100% cotton woven plaid, milled in Japan.
Specs:
* See original post or follow-up release for full specs and refs.
* Elaborate shirting construction/pattern.
* “Double-back ventilated” vintage pattern, and then some.
* Full button front mod.
Sizing:  CL wears Small.
Note: We reinterpreted this uncommon vibrant orange/green dominant tartan original plaid from a vintage, home-made and no-label wool shirt from our archives. It was adapted in 100% cotton yarns and woven exclusively for us in Japan.

13) TOPSIDERS (USA):
ETA: Available now.
Pattern: Our popular and recurring naval-inspired dungarees pattern.
Fabric: NOS 11 Oz. Crosshatch denim twill, indigo moss blue (blue with a greenish sheen), slubby 70% cotton 30% linen blend, milled in Italy.
Specs:
* High waisted.
* Straight and full naval wrap leg.
* Buckle-back.
* Metal “donut” tack buttons.
Sizing:  CL wears W30.

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog line up:

 

 

MF® CAMPUS Blouse “SANTA FE”, wide wale 14 Oz. black corduroy, FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog (USA)

 

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot64SF “SANTA FE”, wide wale 14 Oz. black corduroy, FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog (USA)

 

 

MF® APPALOOSA Western Shirt, NOS “Liberty” denim, FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog (USA)

 

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot44WL “Wide Loom”, non-selvedge 14.5 Oz. American denim, w/ buckle back option.
FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog (USA)

 

MF® RANGER Shirt, NOS Selvedge Woolen Plaid, FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog (USA)

 

 

FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog/Line-up (all made in USA):

A) MF® CAMPUS Blouse “Santa Fe” (USA):
ETA: Available now.
Fabric: fancy “double-cross” 100% cotton corduroy, 8 wale, jet black, 14 Oz., milled in Japan.
Specs:
* Side gussets/pocket welt/facing: contrast NOS 2×1 dark indigo 10.5 Oz. denim.
* Black leather pocket stops & cinch straps.
* Corrozo wood buttons.
Sizing:  CL wears 36.

B) APPALOOSA Western Snap Shirt (USA):
ETA: Available now.
Fabric: NOS “Liberty” indigo 2 x 1 denim, 10 Oz., wide loom, from the now-defunct Columbus Mills, Georgia, USA.
Specs:
* An original mfsc pattern introduced in 2013.
* 1950s style painted metal snaps.
* Double snap barrel cuffs.
* Slanted front yoke & chest pockets.
* Single arcuate western back yoke.
* Chambray fabric side gussets.
Sizing:  CL wears Small.

C) RANGER Shirt NOS Selvedge Woolen Plaid (USA):
ETA: Available now.
Fabric: wool blend, grey/black dominant woven “shadow” plaid, soft hand, traditionally loomed in India, British tweed heritage.
Specs:
* Double chest pockets, box pleat, red bartack accents.
* Chin strap.
* Black cotton sateen collar band lining & button placket.
* Side gusset featuring wool fabric selvedge.
Sizing:  CL wears Small.

D) CALIFORNIAN Lot64SF “Santa Fe” (USA):
ETA: Available now.
Fabric: fancy “double-cross” 100% cotton corduroy, 8 wale, jet black, 14 Oz., milled in Japan.
Pocketing: NOS 2×1 dark indigo 10.5 Oz. denim.
Specs:
* Our classic 5-pocket pattern in our most popular Lot64 cut (straight leg, slight taper).
* All tonal trims/pocket labeling.
Sizing:  CL wears W30.

E) CALIFORNIAN Lot44WL “Wide loom” (USA):
ETA: Available now.
Fabric: all American 14.5 Oz. indigo 3 x 1 denim twill, wide loom (no selvedge), milled in USA by Mt. Vernon Mills.
Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton “Troy Twill” fabric, milled in Japan.
Specs:
* Our classic 5-pocket pattern in our widest Lot44 cut (wide leg, 1940s vibe), available at substantial savings due to better fabric yield.
* Yellow/orange contrast stitching.
* Overlock outseams.
* Available with buckle-back (Lot44WLBB) or without buckle-back (Lot44WLX)
Sizing:  CL wears W30.

 

That’s a wrap, friends!

Our original FW2024 SUBMARINER mfsc collection is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that above FW2024 lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting the refined quality/fit/details/labeling of the upcoming production.

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into one’s existing classic wardrobe.

Thank you very much for your renewed support.

Love from Sunny California,

c & Joe

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024