Mister Freedom® SWABBIES CUT-OFFS, OG-107 Cotton Sateen, SS2024 mfsc AREA 7161, made in Japan.

 

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES CUT-OFFS, OG-107 Cotton Sateen.
SS2024 mfsc AREA 7161 Collection.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® SWABBIES were initially released sometime in 2020 as full-legged bell-bottom denim trousers.

The pattern inspiration had come from a rare pair of 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker, extensively documented here. If these conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees — with authentic 1940’s-style navy bells and a traditional high waist —, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of utilitarian trousers. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two types of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only makes sense when studying the inside of the pants.

The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS, as the name implies,  are simply a cropped version of the SWABBIES, bye-bye bells. We hemmed the inseam at about 6 inches, for a mid-thigh length.

A common practice in tropical Theater of Operations in the old days, salty Navy personnel would chop-off their faded dungarees and turn them into swim shorts or off-duty bermudas. Another common practice was to undo the top button, and wear the shorts with the waistband rolled-down, as was often the case with UDT Scuba Trunks.

UDT-5 (circa 1943)
Photo licensed from NAVY SEAL Museum.

Following their navy blue HBT debut release, the SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are now available in a classic 9 Oz. vintage Mil-Spec OG-107 cotton-back sateen fabric, in that timeless US military shade of Olive Green we all love. Milled in 2024 as close as it gets to its 1952 GI ancestor (unlike most contemporary overly-slubby commercial renditions), our OG-107 cotton sateen will age as gracefully as that of vintage fatigues.

Wear the SWABBIES CUT-OFFS at the original mid-thigh length, hem them shorter, roll them, or chop them and let the bottom fray (as I did with my navy blue HBT release), they are versatile short pants boasting a vintage pedigree, with a tough military/workwear classic vibe.

The mfsc SWABBIES CUT-OFFS are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% cotton, vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color (classic US military Olive Green), 9 Oz., milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees, cropped into short pants.
* Hemmed at mid-thigh, can be cropped to one’s preferred length.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Tonal all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “AREA 7161” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The SWABBIES CUT-OFFS come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I had opted for a W31 in the Denim Swabbies bell-bottom trousers, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period flares. I went with a W30 in the SWABBIES CUT-OFFS, for both OG-107 Cotton Sateen and navy blue HBT versions.

CARE:
Launder when needed, low maintenance.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc SS2024 LookBook Preview: “AREA 7161” Collection

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161” preview:

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161”, made in USA & Japan ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161”, made in USA & Japan full line-up ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161”, made in USA & Japan full line-up ©2023

 

 

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” (Japan):

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” ©2023

 

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer” ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Alpha model ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Alpha model ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Alpha model ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Bravo model ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirt “Flying Saucer”, Bravo model ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® SS2024 Rock’n’Roll Shirts “Flying Saucer”, Alpha & Bravo models ©2023

 

 

MF® Continental Sportcoat & Sportsman Chinos tw0-piece suit, ivory & indigo cotton HBT, SS2024 (USA):

MF® Continental Sportcoat & matching Sportsman Chinos, ivory & indigo cotton HBT (USA) ©2023

MF® Continental Sportcoat ivory cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Continental Sportcoat ivory cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Continental Sportcoat ivory cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Sportsman Chinos, ivory cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Sportsman Chinos, ivory cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Continental Sportcoat & Sportsman Chinos, ivory cotton HBT ©2023

 

MF® Continental Sportcoat, indigo cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Continental Sportcoat, indigo cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Continental Sportcoat, indigo cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Sportsman Chinos, indigo cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Sportsman Chinos, indigo cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Sportsman Chinos, indigo cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Sportsman Chinos, indigo & ivory cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Continental Sportcoat & Sportsman Chinos, indigo cotton HBT ©2023

MF® Continental Sportcoat & Sportsman Chinos, indigo & ivory cotton HBT ©2023

 

 

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique & “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo “Jelt” twill SS2024 (Japan):

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique & “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo “Jelt” twill SS2024 (Japan) ©2023

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy & rust ©2023

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy & rust ©2023

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique ©2023

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique ©2023

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, rust ©2023

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy ©2023

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy ©2023

MF® “ROCKETEER” Jacket, cotton pique, navy ©2023

MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023

MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023

MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023

MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023

MF® “DRIVER” Trousers, indigo Jelt twill ©2023

 

 

MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray & “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 (Japan):

MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray & “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 (Japan) ©2023

MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 “AREA 7161” ©2023

MF® “WATERTOWN” Shirt, indigo chambray & “SWABBIES” Cut-Offs, OG-107 Sateen, SS2024 ©2013

 

 

MF® SS2024 CALIFORNIANS, RANCH BLOUSE, SPORTSMAN Shirt (USA):

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161” x Sportsman catalog, made in USA ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161” x Sportsman catalog, made in USA ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 “AREA 7161” x Sportsman catalog, made in USA ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co SS2024 CALIFORNIANs, made in USA ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.54 Reissue, NOS Cone denim XUV ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.54 Reissue, NOS Cone denim XUV (w/ worn original from 2009) ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.54 Reissue, NOS Cone denim XUV ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 Awa-Ai fiber denim ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 Awa-Ai fiber denim ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 Awa-Ai fiber denim ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 Awa-Ai fiber denim ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 (VDL14) Vidalia black selvedge denim ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 (VDL14) Vidalia black selvedge denim ©2023

MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 (VDL14) Vidalia black selvedge denim ©2023

 

MF® Ranch Blouse & Californians, SS2024 Sportsman Catalog, made in USA ©2023

MF® RANCH BLOUSE, NOS Cone organic denim OG23 ©2023

MF® RANCH BLOUSE, NOS Cone organic denim OG23 ©2023

MF® RANCH BLOUSE, NOS Cone organic denim OG23 ©2023

MF® RANCH BLOUSE, NOS Cone organic denim OG23 (w/ worn Californian Lot.64 OG23) ©2023

MF® SPORTSMAN Shirt, IceBlu selvedge denim, 7.25 Oz ©2023

MF® SPORTSMAN Shirt, IceBlu selvedge denim, 7.25 Oz ©2023

MF® SPORTSMAN Shirt, IceBlu selvedge denim, 7.25 Oz ©2023

MF® SPORTSMAN Shirt, IceBlu selvedge denim, 7.25 Oz ©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugarcane Co “AREA 7161” mfsc SS2024 Collection

We decided to get lost in space this season, with a brand new storyline. Grab the popcorn.

Our journey will take us from the early days of rocket engineering at JTL in the mid 1930s, with its gang of daredevil scientists (see Jack Parson and the fascinating story of the Suicide Squad), to the mysterious and secretive activities at “Paradise Ranch” in the mid 1950s, to Project Blue Book (official investigation of UFOs by the USAF 1948-1969)… all the way to the moon, and beyond!

“The Ranch”, aka Watertown, or Groom Lake, is an uninviting remote location in the Nevada high desert some 80 miles from Las Vegas, NV, and is better known today as AREA 51, after the US Government was legally pressured (under its FOIA commitment) to declassify documents acknowledging the site’s existence in 2013.

The classified Top-Secret and highly-restricted legendary AREA 51 is a remote air strip on natural salt flats located in Groom Lake, Nevada, initially utilized during WW2 as gunnery range by USAAF pilots. Also codenamed Watertown, the area was secretly reactivated in 1955 as a R&D facility for covert projects. In this hard-to-access isolated high desert location, the CIA, USAF pilots (referred to as “drivers”, for anonymity), Lockheed “Skunk Works” engineers, mechanics, …,  helped develop and test U-2 spy planes.

Through the years, under Project AQUATONE, thousands of sworn-to-secrecy individuals were to be routinely flown-in from Burbank, California, where the planes were actually built, disassembled and shipped out of. Promisingly nicknamed “Angels” or “Super Snoopers”, these high-altitude aircrafts were mostly designed for arial photography recon missions over Communist Russia, and to eventually optimize America’s long-range nuclear reach.
Side note, Russia was conducting the same research at the time, and, through parallel technology advances, actually succeeded in the Space Race by launching the first-ever satellite in 1957, Sputnik-1. The US got even a few years later, by landing a manned-craft on the moon in 1969…

Of course, no allusion to that secret test facility goes without mentioning Aliens… So, for this collection, we will also go explore the “undiscovered”, and tap into the world of vintage Ufology – the study of UFOs (Unidentified Flying Object), more recently referred-to as UPA (Unidentified Anomalous Phenomena.)

UFOs have piqued public’s interest in the US starting in the 1930s.

During WW2, US flyers on combat missions also described unexplainable “fireballs” in the sky in both the European and Pacific Theaters. The unexplained phenomena were coined as “Foo Fighters” back then, origin of the term somewhat uncertain, maybe related to a popular 1940s comic strip.

In 1947, private pilot Kenneth Arnold’s alleged sighting of nine airborne shiny “boomerangs” helped coin the popular term “flying saucers” and sparked a “flying disc” sighting craze with Americans not-only eager for exciting news, but reassessing their worldviews in the Atomic Age.

A major event also happened in 1947, well-publicized since. Known as the Roswell incident, this was a mysterious military/CIA cover-up of an alleged UFO crash (potentially including its Alien “pilots”!) in a New Mexico desert ranch (Forster Ranch), close to the small town of Roswell, NM. For some, a mere weather balloon (or highly-classified surveillance balloon), for others, a Russian secret weapon or alien spaceship…
It is believed by some that the crashed Roswell “UFO” was under reverse-engineering in a secret AREA 51 hangar for years, along with the bodies of the Alien “pilots”… It is also said that most 1950s-60s UFO sightings in the USA were, in fact, shiny silver high altitude secret U-2 spy plane prototypes on test flights.

The topic of UFOs is mostly considered derisive occult hoax material today — admittedly fertile ground for conspiracy theories and an ideal playground for screwballs and charlatans with waaaay too much time on their hands — but is also the concern of many legit scholars. Take five and see Harvard Professor of Science and Astronomer Avi Loeb’s “in search for extraterrestrial intelligence” Galileo Project.
Serious research has been and continues to be conducted today, from early SETI programs to NASA’s recently-established official independent UAP-studying branch, the 2023 US Department of Defense AARO (All-domain Anomaly Resolution Office), etc…
There may be “nothing to see” out there, but that sure is a lot of budget and neurons allocated to the subject!

Fiction or facts, the place that potential extraterrestrial life has taken for Homo Sapiens around our globe is undeniable. From ancient mythology (check out Kaguya-hime in Japan!) to contemporary pop culture (see World UFO Day etc…)
This continued interest may not be proof of existence, but definitely shows our species’ appetite — and healthy curiosity — for the “unexplained” and “undiscovered.”  It also may relate to our own individual eternal existential question about Life’s origin, that traditional religions and Science still fall short of answering.

For breaking news, see July 2023 US Congress hearings about UAP with retired USAF pilots (with apparently impeccable careers and credentials) testifying about their own experiences (and other USAF and commercial airlines pilots’ testimonies) with unknown flying objects. For the three “whistle blowers” testifying that day, writing a mission/flight report mentioning UAP sighting is not exactly “career-enhancing” in their very-serious line of work. They stated that their main goal in going public was to increase transparency, and shed light on what can be shared for the benefit of Science, without jeopardizing national security.

As a disclaimer, let me briefly state that I am neither the Sci-Fi fanboy, nor into paranormal mysticism, and have yet to sit through the original Star Wars trilogy or an X-Files season! Alien abductions, and of the concept of contactees are way too far-out for me, and I’m not sure what to make of Bob Lazar and his peers. But what do I know…
As a kid growing up in the 70s though, I did watch countless re-run episodes of “The Invaders” on French TV (that extended little finger creeped me out!), and do enjoy listening to Ken Layne’s Desert Oracle podcasts these days. Something about escaping to the Mojave Desert… I also do intend to have a cold one at the Little A’LE’ Inn at some point, just for the mandatory selfie in front of that motel sign!

So, are we not alone? Is there life out there? Well, if humans are lucky, it will hopefully be more intelligent than the one I was granted with!

SS2024 style inspiration:
For Spring 2024, Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co decided to have fun with vintage UFO lore, explore the myths and declassified history around AREA 51, in a simple mission to design a few casual wearables for 21st Century earthlings, with an emphasis on American 1940s-50s menswear/workwear with the usual MF® twist.

For visuals, Angels in Paradise (1960) is recommended watching. A declassified 20mn filmed documentary about the development of the U-2 at AREA 51. Great vintage footage, straight from the CIA.
For the historical timeline and background, Annie Jacobsen’s AREA 51 — a well-researched and fascinating book written in 2011 with an overwhelming amount of declassified intel — provided me with much of the content above.

This season’s SS2024 AREA 7161 mfsc collection line-up consists of (USA or Japan-made):

1) “FLYING SAUCERS” Rock’n’Roll Shirt, MF® x Sun Surf® (Japan):
Musical background here.
Fabric: 100% rayon, original artwork inspired by the 1947 Roswell alleged UFO crash and related vintage flying discs lore.
Color options:
a) Alpha model (original artwork colorway)
b) Bravo model (subdued background)
Sizing: CL will wear a MEDIUM in production.
ETA: End April 2024

2) “CONTINENTAL SPORTCOAT & “SPORTSMAN CHINOS” two-piece suit (USA):
Our classic and versatile suiting patterns, to pair or wear individually, to color-match or mismatch, to dress up or down.
Fabric: fancy herringbone twill, 100% cotton, 10 Oz., milled in USA.
Color options:
a) Indigo HBT
b) Ivory HBT
Sizing: CL will wear a 38 coat and W30 in production.
ETA: End April 2024

3) “ROCKETEER” JACKET (Japan):
(moniker reference to early Aeronautical research and rocketeering conducted in California since the 1930s, leading to jet-propulsion technology still used today by NASA today. See Jack Parson and the fascinating story of the Suicide Squad…)
The pattern borrows from vintage “gas station” jackets, as a rocket mechanic might have worn on/off the job.
Fabric: 100% cotton pique, milled in Japan.
Color options:
a) Rusty brown
b) Navy blue
Sizing: CL will wear a SMALL in production.
ETA: Mid March 2024

3) “DRIVER” Trousers (Japan):
(the word “driver” was used to address Area 51 USAF/CIA pilots who were testing U-2 planes, to add another layer of secrecy to the covert operation during radio/printed convo. Early spy plane pilots were instructed to not to wear US Government-issued gear, to reduce traceability in case of a crash landing on covert ops over enemy territory.)
Pattern inspired by a 1950s USN pair of Service denim dungarees, with a revisited naval service pants silhouette. Fitted top block and period wide leg for a 1930s-40s vibe.
Fabric: Dark double indigo “Jelt” twill, 10 Oz., milled in Japan.
Sizing: CL will wear a W30 in production. (photographed sample is W31)
ETA: Mid March 2024

4) “WATERTOWN” Shirt (Japan):
(“Watertown” was the code name for AREA 51 for internal convo.)
1950s style casual S/S shirt, blending period sportswear with workwear, diverting chambray fabric from its usual utilitarian garment role.
The orange/yellow contrast stitching combo is a nod to our Californian blue jeans.
Fabric: Indigo chambray, cotton/linen blend (85/15), 6.5 Oz., white/red stripe selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
Sizing: CL will wear a SMALL in production.
ETA: Mid April 2024

5) “SWABBIES” CUT-OFFS (Japan):
One of our short pants best-seller at MF®, a versatile piece.
Fabric: OG-107 cotton sateen, 1950s Mil-Specs.
Sizing: CL will wear a W30 in production.
ETA: Mid April 2024

6) CALIFORNIAN Lot.54 Reissue (USA):
An anticipated reissue of our first Californian blue jeans model, initially released in 2010! Same cut, trims and vintage NOS Cone denim.
Limited run!
Fabric: New Old Stock Cone Mills “XUV” selvedge denim, 12 Oz., milled in USA.
Sizing: CL will wear a W30 in production.
ETA: Early March 2024

7) CALIFORNIAN Lot.674 “AWA-AI” fiber denim (USA):
Releasing the recent Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai in our popular and slimmer Lot.674 cut.
Fabric: Sugar Cane Co proprietary “AWA-ai” fiber denim (blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers), 13 Oz., white/green line selvedge ID, dark indigo hue, dry, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan.
Sizing: CL will wear a W31 in production.
ETA: Available now

8) CALIFORNIAN Lot.64 black denim VDL14 (USA):
Our classic 5-pocket cut.
Fabric: black warp x black weft bull denim, 14 oz., white/red selvedge ID, milled in USA by Vidalia Mills on Cone Mills legacy Draper-X3 looms.
Sizing: CL will wear a W29 or W30 in production.
ETA: Available now

9) RANCH BLOUSE OG23 (USA):
Our classic original trucker jacket, released in the same fabric as our SS2023 Californian Lot.64 OG23.
Fabric: New Old Stock Cone Mills “XXMC” organic selvedge denim, 12.75 Oz., milled in a Cone Mills-owned facility in China, operating with legacy looms.
Sizing: CL will wear a 38 in production.
ETA: Available now

10) SPORTSMAN Shirt IceBlu denim (USA):
Our classic workwear style shirt (same pattern as the MF® Ranger Shirt with additional front shoulder yoke expansion pleats.)
Limited fabric, very small run.
Fabric: 2×1 selvedge “IceBlu” denim, 7.25 Oz., milled in USA.
Sizing: CL will wear a SMALL in production.
ETA: Available now

That’s a wrap!

Our original SS2024 “AREA” mfsc collection is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that the SS2024 lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting quality/fit/details/labeling of the upcoming production.

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into one’s existing classic wardrobe.

Thank you very much for your renewed support.

Love from Sunny California,

MF® Team, Joe & c

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES dungarees, 10 Oz. selvedge “Snow” denim edition, mfsc SS2020 “Waterfront Surplus”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES dungarees, 10 Oz. “Snow” denim edition.
mfsc SS2020 “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, SURPLUS catalog.
Made in Japan.

It’s been “All Hands on Deck” lately. For us at the MF® HQ, but more-importantly nation-wide, as anyone who has access to electricity and a few brain cells must have noticed, unlike this fine group of our Country’s learning elite…
So here are the SWABBIES, the final installment of our “WATERFRONT SURPLUS” nautical capsule collection.

The term swabbie is military lingo for a low-rank bluejacket, referring to the sailor’s chore of mopping (swabbing) the deck, barefoot in the old days. This derogatory expression is typical of the healthy rivalry in different branches of the United States Armed Forces. US Marines might call sailors swabbies. A sailor who’d rather be referred to as squid, might call an Infantryman jungle bunny, or a Marine crayon eater. Submariners are bubble heads… All in good humor. This insiders’ exchange quotes some other colorful examples.

The inspiration behind the Mister Freedom® SWABBIES came from a pair of rare 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker. If these conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of work trousers, which we liked. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two types of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only make sense when studying the inside of the pants.
Fabric yield on that vintage specimen was definitely optimized by using the fabric selvedge on as many parts of the pants as possible, folded waist band, front pockets, watch pocket, and rear pockets. The rear pockets feature an horizontal warp, as the patch pockets of the denim Longshoreman do, a detail that will only start revealing itself with wear and patina.

The most striking feature of our SWABBIES however is the authentic navy bells. We didn’t spare fabric on this one, and went full-on 1940’s-style authentic bells. Unlike 1970’s hippy bell bottoms, traditional naval bells flare from the inseam, not outseam, as the trousers’ profile photo attests. This is due to the fact that traditional navy dungarees feature a wrap leg (one folded single piece of fabric per leg, no out seam), a pattern style we have often toyed with, from our 2007 7161 Utility Trousers to the more recent Topsiders multiple iterations.

The story behind the origin of naval flares seems to be lost to History, with many legends floating around. Bell bottom trousers might have been issued to US Navy sailors as early as 1813, with a denim model introduced in 1901. The wide leg opening allegedly allowed roll-ups above the knee, keeping the pants dry while swabbing, as regulations from Secretary of the Navy Crowninshield in 1817 suggest. (source)
The myth about tying up the legs and using the trousers as a life preserver for a man overboard is probably moonshine on the water.

We kept the fit of our SWABBIES authentic, and refused to compromise with modern fashion adjustments, ‘cause we craycray like that. These feature a high rise, fit top block, and flaring that starts at the knee, gradually reaching a whooping 11.5 inches at leg opening! Not everyone will pull that off, but we just love that unmistakable vintage naval silhouette so much that we had to add bells to the MF® catalog at some point. And since 2020 is nothing short of an unusual year so far, there it is.

The SWABBIES’ fabric, a dark and handsome 2×1 selvedge denim with a “snowy” neppy texture, matches that of the Dockyard and Longshoreman. For those into the total look, the set will soon be modeled for your viewing pleasure, as soon as things get a bit under control in the World. For less of a “Sand Pebbles” extra statement, pairing the SWABBIES with a solid Skivvy, a classic chambray shirt or pull-over Secoya might be the ticket. Vintage naval photos abound and could be a style inspiration for some. The fits are also a bit all over the place on period photos, as can be seen on the shots below from albums in our archives.

The fabric evo on the SWABBIES should be quite interesting with normal wear and occasional laundering, not unlike that of vintage US dungarees.

The mfsc SWABBIES are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co., from denim fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
10 Oz. dark indigo blue 2×1 denim, “snowy” neppy texture, white with yellow line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees.
* Authentic traditional USN dungarees flared leg pattern, inseam bell shape with straight outseam.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Intricate use of the denim selvedge in construction (folded waist band, front pockets, watch pocket, and rear pockets.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Black tonal all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “SURPLUS” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The SWABBIES come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Spin dry and line dry.
  • Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I opted for a W32 in the Swabbies, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period bell-bottoms. The waist might feel a bit tight after the cold soak, but with a bit of wear, the “snow” denim stretches back slightly to the tagged waist. After minimal wear, the fabric will naturally stretch at the stress points, like the waist, as opposed to, say, the ankles.
I opted for a no cuff silhouette, until swabbing duty. To facilitate sizing for wide range of frames, we cut limited odd sizes too (29, 31, 33).

Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).

CARE:
Wash when necessary. We recommend turning garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available RAW/unwashed.
Sizes (W is for Waist, measured in inches.)
W 28
29

30
31
32
33
34
36
W 38

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2020

 

 

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc SS2020 collection preview: “Waterfront Surplus”, “Yucatán”, “Dude Ranch” and “Sportsman” (made in USA and Japan)

 

SS2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”.


Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”.

SS2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “YUCATÁN”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN”.

 

SS2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “DUDE RANCH”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH”.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc “DUDE RANCH”.

 

SS2020 Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co “SPORTSMAN” catalog.

 

MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE Co mfsc SS2020 collection preview.

Our SS2020 mfsc line-up consists of several groupings of interconnected capsule collections, produced in Japan and USA. That up-coming season features “WATERFRONT SURPLUS”, “DUDE RANCH”, and a follow-up to our 1960’s McQueen-inspired concept called “YUCATÁN”, including our summer shirt collaboration with Sun Surf®.
We are introducing new fabrics (like the smashing Ice Blue denim!) in classic mfsc patterns, and familiar fabrics in new patterns. Some of these SS2020 garments fall under the SPORTSMAN (made in USA) or SURPLUS (made in Japan) catalogs, but are presented here regrouped by “story” rather than CoO (Country of Origin.)
Besides the classic style references and vintage inspiration, the common threads in all these original garments are our long-standing commitment to ethical manufacturing and aversion to fast fashion.

“WATERFRONT SURPLUS”:
Inspired by 1930’s US Navy and French Marine Nationale utility uniforms, it consists of the following.
1) DOCKYARD Jacket (made in Japan):
* 10 Oz. “snow” selvedge blue denim twill.
* 7.7 Oz. indigo-dyed herringbone twill (HBT) 60% Linen – 40% Cotton.
2) LONGSHOREMAN Shirt (made in Japan):
* 10 Oz. “snow” selvedge blue denim twill.
* 7.7 Oz. indigo-dyed herringbone twill (HBT) 60% Linen – 40% Cotton.
3) SWABBIES Dungarees (made in Japan):
* 10 Oz. “snow” selvedge blue denim twill.
4) Chandail SAINT-MALO (made in USA):
* NOS indigo cotton jersey knit.

“YUCATÁN”:
Loosely inspired by an obscure 1969 movie script written by actor Steve McQueen. Set in Mexico and involving chasing motorcycles, roaring dune buggies, desert racing, cenote diving, and treasure hunting… That project never made it on film. Following its SS2019 chapter, our SS2020 take consists of the following.
1) MERIDANA Shirt (made in Japan):
* 4.4 Oz. Indigo Linen.
* Beige mid-weight slubby Chambray, 50% Hemp – 25% Linen – 25% Cotton.
2) CALIFORNIAN Jeans Lot.674 (made in USA):
* 12.5 Oz. Piqué selvedge fabric, Golden Blond.
* 12 Oz. “Ice Blue” selvedge Denim twill, mfsc exclusive.
3) RANCH BLOUSE (made in USA):
* 12 Oz. “Ice Blue” selvedge Denim twill, mfsc exclusive.
4) Chemise MARINA (made in Japan):
* Indigo-dyed 100% cotton knit piqué.
* Desert Yellow 100% cotton knit piqué.
5) SCRAMBLER Jacket (made in Japan):
* Indigo-dyed cotton Gabardine (with cotton woven tartan lining.)
* Cotton woven Tartan (with indigo blue chambray lining.)
6) CATALINA Rock’n Roll Shirt, MF® x Sun Surf (made in Japan):
* 100% rayon, all original MF® print.
7) BOARD SHORTS (made in USA):
* NOS two-tone crosshatch denim combo, cotton-linen blend.
8) STANLEY SHOP TEE:
* Hand silk-screened, original “Freedom” graphic.

“DUDE RANCH”:
Inspired by 1950’s-60’s Hollywood western movies and vintage silver screen cowboys, this collection consists of the following.
1) DUDE RANCHER Shirt (made in Japan):
* Selvedge Vat-dye Chambray.
* Shadow Plaid printed 100% cotton popeline.
2) mfsc Ranch BANDANA (made in Japan):
* Selvedge cotton fabric. Red, Navy, Brown, or Gold.
3) Californian Blue Jeans Lot.64 (made in USA):
* 13 Oz. NOS Cone Mills selvedge denim Left Hand Twill.

“The SPORTSMAN”:
Our on-going catalog of original classics made in USA. This season’s additions not falling into the above stories consist of the following.
1) Continental Two-Piece Suit “Le PARISIEN, Sportcoat & Trousers -also available separately- (made in USA):
* Mock Twist Stripe, selvedge, 100% cotton.
2) Sportsman Chinos (made in USA):
* 8 Oz. NOS crosshatch denim twill, slate grey, 60% Cotton – 40% Linen.

Voila!

Drop dates for this latest Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SS2020 mfsc line-up are imminent. We are expecting deliveries between February and April 2020, as Japan and USA factories gradually complete production.
Contact [email protected] with questions you may have, although full specs will only be available at the time each garment is released and documented on this blog.

Thank you very much for taking the time to read this, and for your support.
Sincerely,

Christophe LOIRON
Mister Freedom®
©2020