The one that got away meets the one we just got in!
The Mister Freedom® MARINER Rollneck Sweater is part of our mfsc FW2022 FROGSVILLE line-up (a stylistic incursion into the world of vintage UDT, Frogmen and US Navy SEALs, with loose 1940s-1970s combat diving and Special Ops references), but somehow never got coverage on this blog. More the result of a temporary disruption in brain cell activity from yours truly than a lack of interest on the subject.
So there it is!
In the footsteps of its PRIVATEER predecessor, the MARINER Rollneck Sweater is inspired by classic cable knit sweaters, revisited MF® style.
Our Frogsville story goes that the garment was a private purchase for our Californian frogman (fictitious) character. While on a mission off the West coast of Ireland, he just wanted to somewhat blend in with local fishermen…
Our twist is that the knit pattern of the MARINER has that classic Aran sweater vibe, but we opted for 100% cotton yarns instead of wool. Less allergy-inducing, and more SoCal-weather friendly. The sweater fabric has a soft hand, a fairly loose knit with horizontal crosswise stretch for a comfortable vibe. Not intended to compete with dense wool fisherman sweaters in the warmth department, but perfect for mild temps back home.
Our other twist is in the proportions, as we aimed for a shorter old-school silhouette that pairs well with the kind of classic mid-to-high-waisted trouser styles we favor. To further accentuate the 1930s~40s period aesthetics, we went for a 5 inch-long waistband that compliments one’s natural waist line. For ref, the Privateer had a 3½ inch-long waistband.
The long ribbed roll cuffs are also a nod to vintage sweaters.
Two color options for the MARINER, genuine indigo blue and black, another departure from traditional fisherman sweaters, as repros are not our game.
Next, and fresh from our local California factory, the Mister Freedom® TOPSIDERS are back!
The pattern — discussed at length here — is an old favorite dating back to 2014 in MF® chronology, but with design roots in WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. Classic generous cut, high-waisted, straight wrap leg, button fly, four patch pockets, cinch back.
We have released our TOPSIDERS in a few fabric options through the years, mostly all sold-out today, although some random pairs found in storage may pop up in the MF® warehouse occasionally.
This FW2024 release features a woven goodie we scored from a local fabric jobber a while back: some New Old Stock yardage of premium crosshatch denim twill with a nice indigo moss blue color, wide loom, 11 Oz., a blend of 70% cotton and 30% linen of probable Italian mill origin. This fabric has an attractive and unusual greenish indigo warp, enhanced by a charcoal grey weft yarn. Although it has worked perfectly for our Continental suiting series because of its fine drape/color/texture, it also carries a vintage military-issued might-have-been fabric vibe, perfect for the TOPSIDERS. Workwear meets premium denim.
The MF® MARINER Rollneck and MF® TOPSIDERS are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and produced respectively in Japan and USA, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
MF® MARINER Rollneck Sweater SPECS:
FABRIC: 100% cotton yarn, classic Lace-Diamond-Rope cable knit pattern. Two color options: 1) Genuine dark indigo blue. 2) Black.
DETAILS: * Classic knit pattern, inspired by vintage cable knit “fisherman” type sweaters. * 100% cotton yarns. * Traditional “Lace-Diamond-Rope” cable knit pattern. * Single fold ribbed rollneck. * 1930s-40s style long seamless ribbed waistband. * Extended seamless ribbed roll cuffs. * Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label. * Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT: This explains how we size and measure our garments. The MARINER Rollneck Sweater, in both indigo and black, comes pre-shrunk and is ready-to-wear as-is. No soaking required. This garment is considered true-to-size. At ~5’7 & 145 Lbs, I opted for a SMALL, for a classic period “boxy” fit, with the waistband sitting at the natural waist. Again, this is a period fit that may not work for one only comfortable with more modern and contemporary silhouettes, or with specific body proportions. The MARINER cable knit pattern allows for generous horizontal (crosswise) stretch, with average natural recovery (= the knit’s ability to return to its initial size after being stretched.) Therefore, measurements can be a bit misleading, as with all “stretchy” knit garments. We recommend sticking to your usual MF® size with this sweater. If you are a Medium in mfsc shirting, you are more-likely a Medium in the MARINER. To save on unnecessary frustration and size swap shipping fees, please reach out to [email protected] to tune-in sizing if unsure. Please do provide body type and measurements, silhouette expectation, and, if available, measurements of a similar garment you own that fits according to your style.
CARE: Turn sweater inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Air dry flat on a clean towel, or hang dry on a well-padded hanger to avoid shoulder stretching. Wash with similarly-colored garments. Indigo tends to bleed on light-colored garments/furniture. Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
MF® TOPSIDERS Crosshatch Moss Denim SPECS:
FABRIC: New Old Stock 11 Oz. Crosshatch Denim Twill, indigo moss blue (blue with a greenish sheen) warp x charcoal grey weft, wide loom, 11 Oz., slubby blend of 70% cotton & 30% linen, probable Italian origin.
DETAILS: * Original pattern adapted from a vintage pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams.) * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functioning rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman green inside chainstitch accent. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® TOPSIDERS come raw/unwashed, and are cut so that the measurements roughly match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
Cold soak in a tub for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Line dry, no heat dryer.
At ~5’7 & 145 Lbs, I opted for a comfortable W30. I wear them slightly cinched in the back because of the generous waist. I went for “sloppy rolls” for now, and may hem them later.
To save on unnecessary frustration and size swap shipping fees, please reach out to [email protected] to tune-in sizing if unsure. Please do provide body type and measurements, silhouette expectation, and, if available, measurements of a similar garment you own that fits according to your style.
CARE: The MF® Topsiders NOS Crosshatch Moss denim are low-maintenance. Garment turned inside-out, machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry. Using hot water or heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER Collection:
FW2024 mfsc SUBMARINER Story/Line-up: This Fall, we are paying tribute to the “Silent Service”, diving into the undersea world of vintage international military submarines and their crews, 1930s~1950s.
Historical WW2 background:
Due to the extreme hardship of life undersea for submarine service enlisted men during wartime — 20% casualty rate (the highest of any US forces in WW2), outdated vessels, faulty torpedoes, vulnerability to both air raids and naval anti-sub depth charges, long patrols, sub crews 24/7 “can-do” attitude, long war patrols, scarcity of individual rewards/medals, close quarters and limited space, humidity, poor air quality, crewmen hygiene (1 brief shower every 10 days, no laundry), boat stench, boredom, social isolation, … — most Navy sub skippers tended to be lenient regarding regulations while their boat was underway.
Period photos, rare filmed footage and written accounts depict all kinds of outfits being worn by patrolling sub crews. Sleeveless USN chambray work shirts, cut-off dungarees, skivvies or shirtless, no covers, private-purchase clothes… with the added unusual look of bushy beards and wild non-reg hairdos after long patrols. Officers simply wore khakis.
Because of the known risks shared by all submarine crews, on both side of the WW2 conflict, the level of respect for the enemy was generally high between Navies.
A Sub patrol duties spanned from directly engaging a man-of-war, sinking supply ships, spying on convoys, tracking enemy activity, inserting invading land troops on remote beaches, extracting scouting parties, rescuing downed air pilots (aka “lifeguarding zoomies” in submariners jargon, 504 airmen rescued in WW2), etc… The levels of stealth vs. full open confrontation giving away a sub’s location obviously differed in all those missions.
During WW2, many US Navy subs were sent on “Search & Rescue” missions, with the task of picking up downed airmen or stranded surface ship crews lost at sea. Friends (allies) and foes (enemy forces) could then end-up on the same boat — literally —, heading back to Sub Base, or for the nearest POW camp. Collecting an eclectic mix of enemy uniforms as souvenirs was not uncommon. After a sub-to-sub battle at sea, a victorious US Navy sub crew may find itself underway homebound with U-Boat prisoners on board…
A famous photo series of the captured German U-Boat U-175 crew aboard the USCGC Spencer in 1943 shows another uniform swap practice, with some of the rescued Kriegsmariners warming up in a range of US Navy deck jackets.
Our mfsc fictitious story:
Mixing design elements and tailoring influences from several sub/surface Naval forces (a range of International Navies: US, British, French, Australian, German…), we are revisiting the approach of our original 2008 mfsc “Naval Clothing Tailor” story, and applying it to a fictional US Navy Submariner (pronounced subma-rEE-ner, and not sub-MAriner) during his deployments in the Pacific Fleet Submarines and Submarine Force Atlantic.
While at Sub Base or on leave in exotic locations, our fictitious “Bubblehead” (as surface sailors known as “Skimmers” affectionately nickname submariners) would get custom uniforms made, blending civilian and military styles, regulation and non-reg fabrics, and mixing American, Australian, European, or Axis naval uniform styles.
For FW2024, our “Bubblehead” seabag consists of:
1) FAIRWATER Duffle Coat (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: inspired by traditional vintage British duffle coats, 1940s Royal Navy issued duffle coats, and original 1941 USN Submarine HBT wool jackets. Fabric: Double-layer (double cloth) HBT wool, 30 Oz., charcoal color. With wear, the wide-weave herringbone pattern will gradually appear. Milled in Japan. Fabric inspired by ultra-rare original 1941 USN Navy Submarine coats. Specs:
* Hip-length.
* Round collar with chinstrap.
* Fully unlined, all clean seams, twill backing tape.
* Wood toggles, twisted linen rope.
* Two concealed chest pockets. Sizing:CL wears sample Medium (will wear Small in prod.) Note: The Fairwater (or “Conning Tower”, or “Sail”) of a submarine is the command room (or “brain center”), the small “tower” structure on top of the boat, mostly known to old war movie watchers as the place the periscope comes out of (“Up scope!!”), with the classic Hollywood scene of a tense radarman monitoring the green oscillating ping of enemy presence on a black screen, “watching the sound”!
2) TORPEDO Jacket (USA): ETA: Dec 2024 Pattern: Loosely inspired by WW2 U-Boat Kriegsmarine reefer-style leather jackets, and based on an American vintage 1930s-40s civilian sportswear leather jacket. Shell: Veg-tan black tea-core cowhide. Same grade as MF® Campus “Stallion” and Ranch Blouse “Ringo”. Body lining: NOS woven plaid cotton flannel (sleeve lining: NOS woven cotton dobby stripe) Specs:
* High five-button front style.
* Notched lapel with “stand collar” option.
* Arcuate front yokes.
* Double hip flap pockets.
* 30s style split-back expansion gusset (action-back).
* Half-belt back.
* Corrozo wood buttons/keyhole button holes.
* Gusseted button cinch cuffs. Sizing:CL will potentially wear 38 (Medium), TBD. Note: Charles A. Lockwood, iconic figure in WW2 US Navy submarine history, and adored by both his men and superiors, had his first command in 1919 on an ex-German sub U-97, in order to evaluate enemy U-Boats performances.)
3) BRIDGE Sweater (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: inspired by vintage 1960s USN Deck wool knit sweaters (No. DSA-1-6978-T-65)
We replaced the original navy blue wool knit with indigo cotton knit, extended cuff length and adjusted the fit. Fabric: 100% cotton knit, indigo-dyed. Milled in Japan. Specs:
* Traditional high neck naval style, ribbed knit.
* Slim fit, can be worn as layer under overshirt.
* Seamless ribbed waistband.
* Long early style foldable ribbed knit cuffs. Sizing:CL wears Small. Note: The “Bridge” part of a submarine is the top of the Fairwater/Conning Tower, where the boat is controlled when on the surface.
4)SKIPJACK Overshirt (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: inspired by vintage sportswear outdoor wool overshirts (Eddie Bauer, Woolrich, etc), revisited. Fabric: fancy 50/50 cotton/wool narrow shuttle loom selvedge denim, 15.5 Oz. Warp = 100% cotton indigo yarn. Weft = 100% dark grey wool yarn. White with red line selvedge ID, with selvedge concealed inside cuffs. Milled in Japan. Fabric care: this denim twill is sanforized (aka pre-shrunk). Treat as premium denim, turn inside out before laundering, gentle wash cycle, line dry. Sizing:CL wears Small, or potentially Medium if layering. Specs:
* Original front/back “floating” shoulder yoke, “western” arcuate style.
* Double chest pockets, yoke flap.
* Cotton twill tape collar/button placket facing.
* Corrozo wood buttons. Sizing:CL wears Small. Note: On the Atlantic front, U-Boat crews often wore private-purchase sportswear wool shirt on patrols. The term SKIPJACK is a reference to the USS Skipjack (SS-184), later a Class of submarines.
5) SEAWOLF Trousers (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: inspired by vintage 1960s USN navy blue wool Trousers, Undress Blues, zipper fly, wrap leg. Classic 1930s-40s style wide leg silhouette.
Cut similar to HOLMAN Trou (trousers), but with slash front pockets/rear welt pockets, and dressier. Matching set with the SKIPJACK Overshirt. Fabric: fancy 50/50 cotton/wool narrow shuttle loom selvedge denim, 15.5 Oz. Warp = 100% cotton indigo yarn. Weft = 100% dark grey wool yarn. White with red line selvedge ID. Milled in Japan. Fabric care: this denim twill is sanforized (aka pre-shrunk). Treat as premium denim, turn inside out before laundering, gentle wash cycle, line dry. Pocketing/waistband lining: Pincheck fabric inspired by a pair of vintage 1920s USN broadfall Undress Blues trousers. Specs:
* Period naval cut, fitted top block with wide leg silhouette, classic AF.
* High waisted.
* Naval style wrap leg.
* Zipper fly closure, brass zip.
* Overlocked seam construction for easy alteration.
* Selvedge used in welt back pocket construction, concealed. Sizing:CL wears W30. Note: The name is a reference to the USS Seawolf (SS-197)
6) CPO Shirt “BUBBLEHEAD” (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: similar to our iconic 2008 mfsc Liberty CPO, without the Liberty treatment. Fabric: Okinawa fiber denim, fancy blend of 50% cotton x 50% sugarcane fibers, 11 Oz., white selvedge ID, milled in Japan. Specs:
* Intricate shirt tailoring, 1930s-40s period custom style.
* Original pocket design.
* Reinforcement shoulder yoke.
* Arcuate “western” back yoke.
* Chin strap.
* Black cotton twill collar/button placket facing.
* Fancy scalloped cuff pattern.
* Classic USN fouled anchor plastic buttons.
* Concealed chest pocket.
* Tonal stitching. Sizing:CL wears Medium. Note: “Bubblehead” is military slang for a US Navy Submariner.
7) HOLMAN Trousers (USA): ETA: Postponed This garment may be postponed or cancelled, due to issues with availability of fabric. Pattern:based on vintage 1950s USN White Service Trousers (Undress White), wrap leg, flat front, button fly. Added rear patch pockets.
Cut similar to SEAWOLF Trou, but with more of a vintage USN dungarees vibe/design. Fabric: fancy jacquard herringbone twill, 100% cotton, 10 Oz., milled in USA. Natural HBT and indigo HBT options. Pocketing: NOS woven stripe fabric, 100% cotton. Specs:
* Vintage traditional naval wrap leg pattern.
* Period 1930s-40s cut, fitted top block with wide leg silhouette, also classic AF.
* High waisted.
* Flat front, two front waistband welt pockets.
* Two back pockets, utilitarian patch style.
* Simple overall construction, with waist size easily altered with a single-needle machine.
* Corrozo wood “cat eye” style button.
* Tonal stitching. Sizing:CL wears W30 (pictured samples are W32) Note: The name is a reference to “Jake Holman”, McQueen’s character name in The Sand Pebbles, who wore a pair in the movie.
WW2 US Navy enlisted men uniform references here.
8) LOOKOUT Watch Cap,“Liberty” edition (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: inspired by vintage USN wool watch caps, revisited. Fabric: 100% cotton indigo-dyed knit, milled in Japan.
Specs:
* Three distinct and continuous knit patterns: six-dart needle-out crown / ribbed knit body / pearl knit hem.
* Shallow profile silhouette with wide fold, to avoid the “ski cap” look.
* Woven mfsc rayon label exposed, backed with concealed old style USN mermaid “Liberty” patch to store a folded bill.
* One size.
9) BARRACUDA Jacket, “Blue Nose” (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: inspired by a vintage sportswear 1930s navy blue melton wool zip jacket. Fabric: 26 Oz. navy blue Melton wool, blend of 90% wool x 10% nylon, milled in Japan. Facing accents: Pincheck fabric inspired by a pair of vintage 1920s USN broadfall Undress Blues trousers. Specs:
* Unlined, 1930s-style taped seams.
* Nautical vibe rounded collar.
* Gusseted shoulder back, action-swing style.
* Vintage style brass zipper.
* Leather side cinch tabs.
* Removable leather chin strap.
* Slash hip pockets.
* Inside double chest pockets.
* Adjustable cuffs.
* Concealed Liberty-style “Blue Nose” mfsc octopus cuffs, stores a folded bill. Sizing:CL will wear Small (pictured sample is Medium) Note: “Blue Nose” = submariner who has crossed the Arctic Circle, similar status of a “Shellback” mariner who has crossed “the line” (=Equator).
10) MAR-SUB Work Jacket (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: inspired by ~60s/70s MARSUM blue cotton twill work jacket (workwear brand from Switzerland, established 1826). Vintage French workwear vibe, good for layering. Fabric: “Midnight” denim, 100% cotton, indigo warp x black weft, 16 Oz., white selvedge ID, milled in Japan. Facing accents: Pincheck fabric inspired by a pair of vintage 1920s USN broadfall Undress Blues trousers.
Specs:
* Classic EU workwear style vibe, hip length.
* High button front closure, corrozo wood buttons.
* Four front patch pockets, hip/chest.
* Rounded nautical collar.
* Fabric selvedge used in cuff construction, concealed.
* Removable chin strap (show sample size of chin strap will be scaled down in production.) Sizing:CL wears Small (pictured sample is Medium) Note: The name MAR-SUB is a play on the original MARSUM label name. (Mar also means sea in Spanish.)
11) MF® SHIP CAP (USA): ETA: Available now Pattern: inspired by classic US Navy ship caps (aka command ball caps), available from the ship’s PX. Fabric: NOS selvedge denim, 61% cotton x 39% hemp, Candiani Mill (since 1938), Italy.
Specs:
* Six-panel ball cap style.
* Old school lower profile.
* Taped inside seams.
* Customize with your own favorite patch!
12) SECOYA Shirt (JP): ETA: Available now. Pattern: inspired by a 1940’s STURDY OAK work chambray with elaborate “Double-Panel” construction, and a 1930’s pull-over chin-strap work chambray with no label. Fabric: original mfsc 100% cotton woven plaid, milled in Japan.
Specs:
* See original post or follow-up release for full specs and refs.
* Elaborate shirting construction/pattern.
* “Double-back ventilated” vintage pattern, and then some.
* Full button front mod. Sizing:CL wears Small. Note: We reinterpreted this uncommon vibrant orange/green dominant tartan original plaid from a vintage, home-made and no-label wool shirt from our archives. It was adapted in 100% cotton yarns and woven exclusively for us in Japan.
13) TOPSIDERS (USA): ETA: Available now. Pattern: Our popular and recurring naval-inspired dungarees pattern. Fabric: NOS 11 Oz. Crosshatch denim twill, indigo moss blue (blue with a greenish sheen), slubby 70% cotton 30% linen blend, milled in Italy. Specs:
* High waisted.
* Straight and full naval wrap leg.
* Buckle-back.
* Metal “donut” tack buttons. Sizing:CL wears W30.
Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog line up:
MF® CAMPUS Blouse “SANTA FE”, wide wale 14 Oz. black corduroy, FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog (USA)
FW2024 mfsc SPORTSMAN Catalog/Line-up (all made in USA):
A) MF® CAMPUS Blouse “Santa Fe” (USA): ETA: Available now. Fabric: fancy “double-cross” 100% cotton corduroy, 8 wale, jet black, 14 Oz., milled in Japan. Specs: * Side gussets/pocket welt/facing: contrast NOS 2×1 dark indigo 10.5 Oz. denim. * Black leather pocket stops & cinch straps. * Corrozo wood buttons. Sizing:CL wears 36.
B) APPALOOSA Western Snap Shirt (USA): ETA: Available now. Fabric: NOS “Liberty” indigo 2 x 1 denim, 10 Oz., wide loom, from the now-defunct Columbus Mills, Georgia, USA. Specs:
* An original mfsc pattern introduced in 2013.
* 1950s style painted metal snaps.
* Double snap barrel cuffs.
* Slanted front yoke & chest pockets.
* Single arcuate western back yoke.
* Chambray fabric side gussets. Sizing:CL wears Small.
C) RANGER Shirt NOS Selvedge Woolen Plaid (USA): ETA: Available now.
Fabric: wool blend, grey/black dominant woven “shadow” plaid, soft hand, traditionally loomed in India, British tweed heritage. Specs:
* Double chest pockets, box pleat, red bartack accents.
* Chin strap.
* Black cotton sateen collar band lining & button placket.
* Side gusset featuring wool fabric selvedge. Sizing:CL wears Small.
D) CALIFORNIAN Lot64SF “Santa Fe” (USA): ETA: Available now.
Fabric: fancy “double-cross” 100% cotton corduroy, 8 wale, jet black, 14 Oz., milled in Japan. Pocketing: NOS 2×1 dark indigo 10.5 Oz. denim. Specs:
* Our classic 5-pocket pattern in our most popular Lot64 cut (straight leg, slight taper).
* All tonal trims/pocket labeling. Sizing:CL wears W30.
E) CALIFORNIAN Lot44WL “Wide loom” (USA): ETA: Available now.
Fabric: all American 14.5 Oz. indigo 3 x 1 denim twill, wide loom (no selvedge), milled in USA by Mt. Vernon Mills. Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton “Troy Twill” fabric, milled in Japan. Specs:
* Our classic 5-pocket pattern in our widest Lot44 cut (wide leg, 1940s vibe), available at substantial savings due to better fabric yield.
* Yellow/orange contrast stitching.
* Overlock outseams.
* Available with buckle-back (Lot44WLBB) or without buckle-back (Lot44WLX) Sizing:CL wears W30.
That’s a wrap, friends!
Our original FW2024 SUBMARINER mfsc collection is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities. Please note that above FW2024 lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting the refined quality/fit/details/labeling of the upcoming production.
As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into one’s existing classic wardrobe.
The TOPSIDERS is one of our popular and recurring naval-inspired trousers pattern.
First introduced in “Okinawa 301” denim during our Spring 2014 mfsc “Sea Hunt” collection, the style is our twist on vintage WW2 US Navy wrap-leg denim dungarees. The TOPSIDERS were subsequently released in an original “Marine Nationale” denim, and NOS OD HBT.
For FW2020, we are bringing back on deck another NOS fabric lucky score, an all cotton “Gunpowder Tea” color herringbone twill (HBT), previously featured on our Workman Shirt. Milled in Italy, this fancy lighter-weight fabric is yarn-dyed with sulfur dye, giving it its desirable low colorfastness. Although the dyeing processes are completely different, the results are somewhat similar to indigo-dyeing, where the dye molecules cling to the outer part of the yarn, and the core remains “un-dyed”. Our NOS twill is “gunpowder tea” color (dark greenish brown) in appearance, while the core of the yarns is unbleached natural. For those into instant gratification and quick, natural patina, this twill will rapidly ‘age’ after just a few machine washes. This is always a welcome feature for movie Wardrobe Departments.
High-waisted and full-legged, with a nice drape, our TOPSIDERS are designed with a vintage 1940’s military dungarees silhouette in mind, not yoga leggings.
The MF® Topsiders NOS Gunpowder Tea HBT edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by classic 1940’s-50’s workwear shirting. FABRIC: New Old Stock 100% cotton herringbone twill, gunpowder tea color, lighter-weight 8.5 Oz., low colorfastness, milled in Italy.
DETAILS: * Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams). * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functional rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman signature green inside chainstitch accent. * MF® Sportsman rayon woven label. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The TOPSIDERS Gunpowder Tea HBT come unwashed and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
Turn garment inside-out. Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
Washing machine spin dry.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)
I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
CARE: Launder when needed. We recommend turning the pants inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. DISCLAIMER: This sulfur-dyed HBT fabric is not colorfast and its appearance will ‘age’ and look ‘worn-in’ after the first full cycle machine wash. Delicately hand washing might minimize the fading of the fabric, but it is intentionally designed to age fast.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist x Length: W28 x L34 W30 x L34 W32 x L34 W34 x L34 W36 x L36 W38 x L36
Mister Freedom® Topsiders, NOS OD HBT (New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill) Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017 Made in USA
NOS OD HBT utes?
You no dig dat GI Jive, Jack? Alreeeet.
“P-F-C to the C-P-L to the S-G-T to the L-T C-P the O-D the M-P makes ya do K-P…”
The MF® “Topsiders” pattern was first introduced during our Spring 2014 mfsc “Sea Hunt” collection.
The style was adapted from the familiar WW2 US Navy wrap-leg denim dungarees models. Originally released in the illustrious “Okinawa 301”, a Fall version followed in a special “Marine Nationale” denim twill, both made in Japan at the time.
For Fall 2017, we decided to add the popular Topsiders pattern to our Sportsman catalog, and release a made-in-USA edition cut from vintage New Old Stock fabric, a fine lot of crisp 100% cotton Olive Drab Herringbone Twill. Somewhat similar to the Buzz Rickson’s replica fabric inspired by 1940’s USMC utilities, our NOS textile is in a bit darker shade of green (kinda OG Shade 7 meets OG-107), and features a slightly lighter ounce. Our OD HBT is a bit heavier than the khaki HBT Sportsman Chinos released for Spring 2017, for those familiar with that NOS textile.
High-waisted and full-legged, with a nice drape, our HBT Topsiders are designed with a vintage 1940’s military dungarees silhouette in mind, not yoga leggings.
The MF® Topsiders OD HBT edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Note: Production of the MF® Topsiders come without stencil/perso ID.
SPECS: FABRIC: Crispy 100% cotton New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill.
DETAILS: * Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams). * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functioning rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman green inside chainstitch accent. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® HBT Topsiders come raw/unwashed. A low-maintenance garment, we recommend an initial cold wash, full agitation, heat dryer. Once washed and dried, the HBT fabric will fully reveal its attractive texture. This process will also emphasize the subtle puckering of the seams/stitching, a commun characteristic of vintage workwear. I opted for a size 32, with a generous waist and full silhouette. I adjusted the back strap strap, fully cinching it. I could squeeze in a Waist 30, but, with this model, subjectively preferred the wide leg and comfortable silhouette of the Waist 32.
Please refer to the chart for approximate measurements. (Raw & fully rinsed and dried)
CARE: The MF® Topsiders NOS OD HBT are low-maintenance.
Machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry or tumble dry.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist x Length: 28 x 34 30 x 34 32 x 34 34 x 34 36 x 36 38 x 36 RETAIL $289.95
Mister Freedom® Topsiders, “MN” (Marine Nationale) Denim.
‘Sea Hunt‘ mfsc Fall 2014.
Made in Japan.
Fall 2014 welcomes another option for our Topsiders. This will be a “Beverly Special” edition, as we requested to have a batch manufactured only for us.
Everything has been pretty much said about this pattern when we introduced the Topsiders during Spring 2014, in their original Okinawa denim edition.
Not to quote the old lunatic, but the original Topsiders pattern is “heavily inspired by an original pair of USN wrap-leg dungarees” from the 1940’s. We adapted the cut and fit, and “ they now have a mid-rise, similar to the rise of our Californian blue jeans“, if not slightly higher.
You know what’s coming next, but we promise this is the LAST time we mention the Marine Nationale, this week.
It has to do with the MN denim twill fabric we introduced as one of 2,478 options of the Map Shirt this Fall.
Here are some more wise words from our senile CEO, as originally posted here: “Sometime in the 1960’s, denim twill dungarees replaced the set of linen work clothes originally issued to French seaman recruits. These linen work tops and bottoms came in both white and bleu chiné. Our Spring 2014 Crew Pants, the “MN” model in cotton/linen, was a reference to that heather blue 1950’s version the cols bleus(the “blue collars”, aka the men with the red pompom) had in their sea bag.
The cotton denim the French opted for as the replacement fabric for the work uniform in the 1960’s was in no way comparable to its dark indigo blue US Navy dungaree counterpart. It was much lighter in color. The warp had a definite purplish tone. The weft gave an almost solid white aspect to the reverse side of the denim.
…
The textile experts at Sugar Cane Co did an amazing job at instructing their factory in milling this “MN denim twill” from the authentic vintage swatches we had supplied. To be honest, the first fabric sample roll lacked the purplish hue and was too grey, but this production batch is spot on!
We chose to have it milled on shuttle looms, a costly process, opting for a solid white selvedge ID.
The result is an exclusive mfsc 9.4 oz. denim twill I am quite found of and proud to introduce for our “Sea Hunt” Fall 2014 chapter…”
We’ve had requests, but we’re sharing more glossies out of the old geezer’s albums anyways.
These photos were shot somewhere in the TAAF off Madagascar, around 1986, featuring the period regulation Marine Nationale-issued cotton work pants. If I remember well, these were not extremely desirable in cut and fit, had a zipper fly and pocketing pattern reminiscent of our Spring 2014 Crew Pants. The navy blue deck jacket was the regulation model that had by then replaced its older jungle cloth cousin, a family of foul weather gear that inspired the recent Mister Freedom® Blouson de Quart.
A bit less regulation were the Vans®, the funky do, and the USS Kitty Hawk cover bartered with a Tuléar local for my extra pair of black regulation dress shoes.
All these bits of souvenirs make the fabric of our Topsiders quite special to me today.
The mfsc Topsiders “MN” denim twill are made in Japan as a collaboration between Mister Freedom® and Sugarcane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
9.4 oz. denim twill, 100% cotton, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees.
* Roomy straight leg.
* Wrap-leg construction, no side seams.
* Button fly, white corozo (vegetable ivory nut) top and fly buttons.
* Selvedge waistband.
* Selvedge concealed ‘crotch gusset’.
* Two functioning rounded bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded bottom rear back pockets.
* Adjustable back cinch strap.
* Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts
* Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Customizable mfsc white woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/WASHING: The Topsiders come RAW (unwashed) and will pretty much shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold soak of about 20mn, machine spin dry or drip dry, line dry.
Do not use heat dryers.
I wear my usual 32 waist in these, using the back cinch to adjust the top block. It’s a comfortable fit, do not expect slim fitting jeans.
Further washing should be limited to when required by common sense, as in when your jeans are dirty.
It is a good idea to wash denim inside-out to avoid marbling.
Please refer to sizing chart for raw and rinsed measurements. Please note that our rinsed measurements (cold soak/line dry) show minimal shrinkage. Using hot water/heat dryer (both NOT recommended) will result in more shrinkage.
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY Tagged Sizes
W28× L36
W30× L36
W32× L36
W34× L36
W36× L36
W38× L36 Retail $399.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email [email protected] with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂
