For FW2021, we are venturing into the world of vintage athletic wear with a colorful collection entitled PODIUM, the latest seasonal chapter of our long-standing collaboration with our friends at Sugar Cane Co (Toyo Enterprise).
Drawing inspiration from old school 1940s to 1980s activewear, from classic Track & Field uniforms and old-school PE (Physical education) gear or casual gym clothes, we blended timeless American and European influences in the Mister Freedom® mixer, and designed a no-nonsense selection of versatile sports-related gear. Taking the usual liberties with period fashions and fits, yet sticking to timeless aesthetics for authenticity, the eclectic styles in our PODIUM line-up will easily incorporate into any classic “heritage” wardrobe or gym locker. Practical and durable vintage-inspired gear for working out, or simply hanging out.
Our MERCURY Jacket draws its inspiration from the dynamic world of 70s-80s running clothes, vintage hi-tech “windsuits” and casual active sportswear. Check out old copies of Runner’s World Magazine ads for reference.
Light weight, unlined body, two-tone panelling and raglan sleeves, ventilation back yoke with athletic “shimmel” mesh shoulder lining for air circulation, 70s style plastic zippers with colorful tape, zip-up high collar, practical adjustable snap cuffs… all blend-in for an old school running jacket style, the MF® MERCURY.
Regarding our choice of moniker, wing-capped Mercury was messenger of the gods in roman mythology, recalling the wing-footed messenger god Hermes of Greek mythology. See Champion’s “running man” 1940s-50s early labels for a similar reference.
For the body material, we decided to go vintage high-tech performance, and opted for an all cotton weatherproof poplin fabric milled in Japan. The textile is advertised as “super-high density 100% cotton fabric with great moisture permeability and waterproof property”. Apparently, the fabric prevents water from getting through (once the yarns are soaked and expend), yet allows sweat to evaporate… Don’t ask me, I just work here.
It is “weatherproof” rather than waterproof (will withstand light rain but is not fully waterproof), yet windproof, and with good breathability.
The mid-weight fabric (about 7 Oz.) has a crispy dry hand similar to traditional tightly-woven 100% cotton poplins, and is ridiculously good-looking. It works perfectly as body material for our purpose, a vintage-inspired windbreaker or running jacket.
For construction, we opted for clean seams inside and out, so the MF® MERCURY features flat-felled (chainstitch) throughout, not the common overlocked seams.
Our choice of recurring visible branding throughout the PODIUM collection is the discreet signature maritime signal flags logo, previously-designed for the Marina Shirt as a chest patch. Absolutely no reference to the flag of Scotland, the diagonal white cross on blue background pennant is international naval code for Mike, the letter “M”, and the red diamond on white background is Foxtrot, the letter “F”.
The MF® MERCURY Running Jacket is designed in California and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, weatherproof cotton poplin fabric milled in Japan.
SPECS
FABRIC:
All-weather fabric, super-high density 100% cotton poplin, about 7 Oz., water-resistant (not waterproof), windproof, breathable. Light weight, dry hand. Milled in Japan.
Color combo options:
a) Arctic white x Navy Blue (with red mesh)
b) Olive Green x Navy Blue (with orange mesh)
DETAILS: * Original mfsc design inspired by vintage high-tech 70s-80s active wear and running clothes.
* Unlined, streamlined.
* Water-resistant and windproof.
* Raglan sleeves.
* Two-tone contrast paneling.
* Vented back yoke with partial mesh lining for air circulation.
* Full zip front closure, 1970s-style plastic zipper with contrasting tape and swivel pulls.
* Zip-up high collar for throat protection, with zipper pull cover.
* Two lower pockets, zip closure.
* Adjustable snap cuffs, original mfsc-branded metal painted snaps.
* Flat-felled (chainstitch) construction throughout.
* Original mfsc “Podium” woven rayon label.
* Designed in USA, made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The MERCURY Jacket comes raw (unwashed) and is ready-to-wear without any pre-treatment.
This jacket is considered true-to-size. I opted for my usual size in mfsc jacket, 38 (Medium). I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
CARE: We recommends dry-cleaning (eco-friendly facility) when possible.
Alternatively, spot clean: brush off/sponge off dirt, sand and mud.
If full cleaning is necessary, and dry-cleaning impractical, machine wash on delicate: turn garment inside out, warm water, pure liquid soap (no harsh synthetic detergent, no bleach etc), rinse thoroughly (until all soap residue is removed).
Shape on hanger and hang dry.
Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER Jacket, tartan & indigo poplin edition.
SS2020 mfsc “YUCATÁN” collection x “SURPLUS” catalog.
Made in Japan.
In the footsteps of our Mulholland Master and Drizzle King, we’re back to Albion with the Mister Freedom® x Sugarcane SCRAMBLER, our twist on another timeless British wardrobe essential, often referred-to as the Harrington jacket.
That windbreaker style allegedly spurred out of Manchester’s rainwear industry in the mid 1930s, when a well-established local cotton mill took on the task of designing a practical-yet-stylish sport jacket optimized for golf swings, and the Rainy City’s legendary constant drizzle. The Baracuta® G-9 was born, and the year was 1937. Another account of the story points to British luxury menswear Grenfell® as the originator of the style, also sometime in the 1930s.
The resulting innovative waist-length garment featured a weatherproof cotton shell, wool knit waistband and trims, dog-ear stand collar, zipper-fastener front, vent back yoke for air circulation, slanted flap pockets, and the iconic traditional tartan lining signature. Combining British swagger with contemporary menswear novelty, the style caught on and soon jumped the pond.
The rest is history, written by three generations of fashionable adopters, from conservative golf enthusiasts to on and off-duty silver screen legends, from unassuming grown-ups to pop culture icons, and from rebelling youth tribes to preppy “Ivy League” crowds.
I have personally never seen such early versions (1930s), especially with that type of collar, but one can assume that the initial design/specs evolved over the years. It was common for makers at the time to claim trademark of both the garment’s original pattern and its exclusive fabric as one model. This makes figuring-out “who was first” often open to discussion. The garment industry is a bit more of a lawless jungle nowadays, with “who’s gonna cash in” the main concern.
As a side note, the Harrington’s legacy has included myriads of interpretations and imitations, but not all golf jackets (or swing tops, as they are known in Japan) are patterned after the British original. Elvis apparently did sport a beige Baracuta in “King Creole” (1956), but there is some confusion regarding James Dean flashing a red one in “Rebel without a Cause” (1955). Jim Stark’s windbreaker was more likely a McGregor or Bud Berma of a completely different style, as evidenced by its pointy collar and waistband pattern. Rebel’s iconic jacket was no G-9. We briefly discussed this first-world issue in a previous post introducing our red Breezer windbreaker.
Regardless, the Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER is definitely a (respectful and fully-credited) spin on the classic and popular British models. We kept the typical 1960s style double-button stand collar, but spiced things up with a curved partial wool knit collar lining, a detail lifted from an oddball vintage “Maine Guide, RAIN-CHEATER” windbreaker. For the wool-sensitive, we sourced a soft/non-itchy wool ribbed knit, much more comfortable than the typical flight jacket mil-specs grade.
Our double arcuate scalloped back yoke is purely decorative, and we kept it simple with no vent or mesh panel. Another departure from traditional G-9s is our set-in sleeve pattern, distinct from the raglan type. We also went for the natural waist-length silhouette of vintage specimen, not the contemporary longer torso cut.
The MF® SCRAMBLER is not a reversible jacket, but comes in two distinct fabric options: The first features a high density dark indigo-dyed poplin with a subtle fabric sheen characteristic of tightly-woven cloths, and with all the perks of a promising patina on the horizon. It is lined and complimented by awarm orange/green tones tartan fabric, inspired by a vintage wool kilt from our archives. We had an all-cotton interpretation of this plaid milled in Japan, hopefully not transgressing any Clan traditions. The second model, in full-on casual 50s American sportswear fashion, displays that handsome tartan as the shell (we all thought it looked too good to just be a lining), and is lined by a classic indigo cotton chambray.
Sat Jul 29 2023 Update:
Quick “evo” photos of my MF® indigo Scrambler, with only one initial rinse + occasional wear. The overall indigo color has shifted hue a bit (less reddish), and light signs of wear appear on cuffs, pocket welts, along the zipper etc… That jacket definitely deserves more miles!
The Mister Freedom® SCRAMBLER is designed in California and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC: Model A: Shell: Indigo-dyed high density 100% cotton poplin, crispy hand, milled in Japan.
Lining: Vintage-inspired woven tartan, 100% soft-hand cotton, warm orange/green tones, milled in Japan. Model B: Shell: Vintage-inspired 100% cotton soft-hand woven tartan, warm orange/green tones, milled in Japan.
Lining: Indigo blue cotton chambray.
DETAILS: * Inspired by vintage British Harrington-style jackets and American casual sportswear windbreakers.
* Fully lined.
* Elastic wool ribbed knit waistband, natural waist length for a vintage silhouette.
* Dog-ear stand collar, double button closure.
* Soft-hand wool ribbed knit partial collar lining.
* Wool knit cuffs.
* Corozo wood buttons.
* Decorative double arcuate scalloped back yoke.
* Set-in sleeves.
* Vintage-style TALON zipper, bell-shape silver pull, 100% cotton tape. (Use gently as these behave like vintage zippers. Engage tab fully and do not use force to zip up. Lubricate the metal teeth with natural beeswax occasionally.)
* Slanted slash pockets with buttoned flaps, contrast facing. * Mister Freedom® woven rayon mfsc “SURPLUS” label. * Made in Japan.
SIZING/FIT: The following applies to both fabric options. The MF® SCRAMBLER comes raw/unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry and line dry.
Hang until fully dry.
Due to the 100% cotton fabric and stitching, some attractive puckering will show at the seams, giving the jacket more of a vintage feel.
The SCRAMBLER fits trim and slim, and sits higher on the waist than its modern contemporaries. I wear a fitted Medium (38), my usual size in most mfsc jackets, with room for a mid-weight shirt and T-shirt. If in-between sizes, we recommend sizing up rather than down with this jacket.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements. Soaked = 30-40mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie. minimal shrinkage).
Available RAW/unwashed. CARE: Launder when needed. Un-zip before washing. We recommend turning the indigo model inside out to avoid marbling of the fabric. Machine wash on gentle cycle, cold water, minimum eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Do not use hot water or a heat dryer, as this may result in damages to the garment. SIZES: 36 (Small) 38 (Medium) 40 (Large) 42 (X-Large) 44 (XX-Large)
Mister Freedom® “BREEZER” Windbreaker, Cotton/Rayon. Speedsafe mfsc collection, Spring 2010. Made in Japan.
So much for chronology on this blog…
With all the distractions that Sunny California provides, getting to officially introduce a 2010 garment in the middle of summer 2017 should come as no surprise. So there it is, our long-overdue MF® BREEZER, not a moment too soon.
The Spring 2010 “Breezer” Windbreaker was part of a motorcycle-based mfsc story, namely “Speedsafe Clothing For Modern Riders”, an early capsule collection from which our Mulholland Master was to become a classic highlight.
Borrowing its puny moniker from the famous McGregor® “Drizzler”, familiar to all vintage clothing aficionados, the MF® “Breezer” combines several vintage styles of windbreakers, old-school low-tech outdoor fabrics, and military summer flight jacket designs, into a cool sixties-vibe McQueenish jacket.
The expert Sugar Cane fabric mills re-created our version of the famed McGregor® magical windproof fabric, the one that always feels fresh! A double-face textile, one side cotton and one side rayon. The rayon twill side has a slight sheen, while the cotton side is rather ‘flat’. The Breezer is cut cotton side-out, while the rayon twill side is visible from the unlined reverse side, creating pleasant interaction with the skin while performing the Crane, which, if do good, no can defense.
The mfsc BREEZER Windbreaker is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
FABRIC: A tightly woven blend of 50% cotton (flat face) and 50% rayon twill (shinny reverse), milled in Japan.
Three color options: Cream, Royal Blue, Black.
Partial lining: NOS woven tartan, red/indigo, 100% cotton.
Note: A fourth version of the Breezer was issued in 100% cotton “midnight” denim twill, indigo warp x black weft, 10 Oz.
SPECS: * Inspired by vintage windproof casual jackets and USN/USMC pilot jacket designs.
* NOS red/indigo tartan partial lining.
* Three patch pockets (including unusual rear panel pocket).
* Concealed chest pocket.
* Tartan-lined snap stand collar and pocket flaps.
* 1950’s-style “Conmatic” metal zipper, with leather pull.
* Diamond-shaped elbow patches, M-421a style.
* Underarm expansion gussets.
* Fancy “Fiocchi” snaps, a-made in a-Italy.
* Woven “MF S/C Speedsafe” woven label.
* Made in Japan. (back in 2010)
SIZING/FIT: The cotton/rayon MF® Breezers are true to size, with a slim silhouette. I wear a Medium, my usual size in mfsc jackets.
Please refer to chart for measurements (unwashed).
CHART
CARE: We recommend DRY CLEANING only for these, at your local professional eco-friendly facility. The Breezer can alternately be delicately hand-washed, cold water/hang-dry, but BEWARE, some lining color bleeding might occur on the Cream version.
Available raw (un-washed) Sizes Small (36)
Medium (38)
Large (40)
X-Large (42)
