   
 Original oil painting by Patrick Segui ©2011
Chemisette GUINGUETTE, piqué cotton.
“Les Apaches” mfsc collection.
Spring 2011
The MF® Chemisette Guinguette is another number that missed the boat… Waterskiing issues again.
This shirt was part of the line-up of our “Les Apaches” Spring 2011 collection, inspired by Paris of the Belle Époque and her infamous bands of flamboyant brigands. Read a brief intro here.
In order to locate an authentic operating guinguette, one can peruse Messy Nessy’s upcoming and promising “Don’t be a tourist in Paris” guidebook. However, to pair your Valseur with a lively partner, the Chemisette Guinguette is the ticket!
A bold move at the time (this was released in 2011, heydays of rugged denim workwear in the flourishing ‘Heritage’ movement), we opted for three jazzy color options of a fancy woven piqué fabric, 100% cotton, developed from a vintage 1920’s French polo shirt.
Time seems to alter the relevance of clothes when collections are designed from a pure flavor-of-the-month perspective, one of the evident downfall of fast fashion. Well, seven years later, we still dig these polo shirts and the pastel palette.
Whether mixing them with our latest Gypsy Blues duds, going for a 60’s vibe with a wheat Californian Lot.74 and Breezer combo, opting for a preppy look with some of our Continental Trousers or Sportsman Chinos, or cruising Yachting-style around the marina with white slacks, the Chemisettes Guinguette are versatile menswear classics, à la MF®.
The Chemisette Guinguette is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Note: The chemisettes pictured in the fit pix have been extensively worn/washed, resulting in heavy color fading.
For more Art from Patrick Segui, the talented fella responsible for the amazing original painting featured on the MF® “Les Apaches” box tops, check-out his artist’s blog or his vintage clothing collector’s journal.
FABRIC:
100% cotton, ridged woven piqué, non-stretch, milled in Japan.
Three pastel color options: Yellow, Pink and Green.
SPECS:
* Inspired by vintage 1920’s -1930’s French short-sleeve polo shirts.
* Slim silhouette.
* ¼ sleeves.
* “Hirondelle” collar.
* Arcuate back yoke and rear collar.
* Side slits.
* Narrow ‘French’ side seams.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING:
The Chemisette Guinguette comes raw/un-washed and will shrink to tagged size after an initial cold soak and line dry process. True to size, this polo shirt fits rather slim with zero fabric stretch. I wear a fitted medium, my usual size in mfsc shirts.
Refer to chart for raw/cold soak measurements.
CHART
CARE:
Low maintenance. Machine wash on delicate, cold water, minimal eco-friendly detergent. Line dry. Use of hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive shrinkage.
Available raw (un-washed)
Sizes (French-style shirting sizing)
37 (Small)
39 (Medium)
41 (Large)
43 (X-Large)
Retail: $179.95
A few NOS specimens are still available from www.misterfreedom.com, and the MF® Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2017
And now, Mesdames et Messieurs…
MFSC Spring 2011 “Les APACHES”
The Paris of the Belle Époque (late 1800’s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.
They were called Les Apaches…
Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.
For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.
In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.
Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…
These are the premises and backdrop of the MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE Spring 2011 Collection.
Influenced by early French haberdashery and work clothes, European tailoring and Old World silhouettes, this new venture is a departure from the “Americana” inspiration of previous seasons. After extensive research and development we turned a corner onto an unfamiliar avenue (Rue de la Grande Truanderie?) to offer this new look of the Old World…
The collection includes:
* Fancy shirting in printed calico fabrics, cotton jacquard, indigo “Métis” (cotton/linen weave) and pastel color dyed cotton pique.
* French workman outfits in cotton/linen indigo “Métis” twill and indigo ticking.
* Fancy city clothes in intricately woven stripe cotton fabrics.
                      
It’s been an avalanche of goodies lately. Our second installment of Fall 2011 Apaches Collection just arrived from Japan… Following the arrival of our Gilet Métisse, here are some britches to go with it. The Pantalon Peau de Diable, our first cotton moleskine trousers.
The pattern is very similar to our Spring 2011 Pantalon Ouvrier, inspired by late 1800’s/early 1900’s French military bourgerons pants, early work trousers and fine tailored European britches. The silhouette is reminiscent of turn of the Century imagery, slimmer type “pantaloon” fit, narrower legs and slightly higher rise.
The french term Peau de Diable (Devil’s Skin) is a reference to an old label found on a vintage moleskine garment, manufactured in the 1920’s in Villefranche, France. Doesn’t get any better than that!
SPECS:
PATTERN: All original MFSC pattern and fit.
FABRIC: Heavy 100% cotton moleskine, the French choice of workwear and outdoor washable fabric since the 1800’s. Moleskine is a tightly woven twill, with a napped surface. The close weave makes this fabric almost windproof, warm, insulating and very durable. It performs much better than denim does, but is very expensive to mill. It is still used in France for specific workwear garments, but is now almost only available in cotton/polyester (I said the P word…)
Our 100% cotton moleskine is milled in Japan, to the specs of a 1900s swatch from our archives.
COLOUR: Two options, BLACK and CREAM
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900′s to 1940′s). “MFSC déposé” engraved buttons combination.
SUSPENDERS: The trousers come with matching fabric removable suspenders, inspired by overalls straps. (Suspenders are not pictured)
HARDWARE: NOS original French sharp prong buckle back.
POCKETING: Two front slash pockets, one watch pocket, two back slash pockets secured by button ‘dart flap’.
Pocket lining is sturdy indigo stripe selvedge ticking, same fabric we used for our Pantalon Ouvrier Indigo Rayure
BACK GUSSET: Contrast indigo stripe selvedge ticking.
CONSTRUCTION: 100 % cotton tonal thread, high count stitching. No overlock/open seams.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
Please recycle those boxes, they can be used for home storage of small items.
WASHING: Our trousers come RAW/unwashed, and will shrink lightly with washing/drying.
For the BLACK version, it is important to wash this garment INSIDE OUT, gentle cycle, to avoid unnatural marbling effect. We recommend an initial cold pre-soak and hang dry.
SIZING & SHRINKAGE: The trousers are labeled and marked in French.
We measured the trousers with the back gusset fully open. A fully close gusset (with maximun back strap cinching) reduces the waist by about 1 and half inch all around. (I am usually between a w31~32, but i am wearing a W30 in those)
Sizing Chart Coming soon.
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Retail $599.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Thank you for your renewed support 😉
Our first MFSC Apaches Fall delivery is in!
If you’ve missed the Spring pitch, here it is again (if you know it by heart, skip the skit and scroll down for the low down on the SPECS)
The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.
They were called Les Apaches…
Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.
For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.
In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.
Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…
MFSC Fall 2011, APACHES Collection: Gilet de Ville métisse
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This fabric is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC lightweight black moleskine, all cotton, 5 oz.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
DETAILS:
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
* Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: The gilet comes RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.
Some not-so-serious fit pix here
 Gilet Métisse Sizing Chart Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.
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