Mister Freedom® infos « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES Modified, Khaki Combo HBT, mfsc SS2023 “FROGSVILLE x SAIGON Classified”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® SWABBIES Modified, 100% cotton khaki combo HBT.
SS2023 mfsc “FROGSVILLE”.
Made in Japan.

The Mister Freedom® SWABBIES were initially released as full-legged bell-bottom denim trousers, sometime in 2020.

The inspiration came from a rare pair of 1940’s-50’s private-purchase naval dungarees from the “Portlite Uniform” maker. If those utility blues conformed to the general silhouette and specs of traditional US Navy-issued denim dungarees, they featured really fancy tailoring and intricate pattern work for a pair of mere work trousers. The apparently-inconspicuous two front pockets are actually a very clever combination of two types of pocket patterns, slash and patch, a construction tour-de-force on a wrap leg that only makes sense when studying the inside of the pants. These original 2020 MF® SWABBIES featured authentic 1940’s-style navy bells (11 inches!) and a traditional high-waisted cut.

These 2023 SWABBIES Modified (Mod) are a straight leg version of the same work pants pattern, bye-bye bells.

The Swabbies Mod are issued in a dry 100% cotton HBT fabric, 9 Oz., same grade as our Raiders Fatigues, but in a khaki greenish-brown x beige color combo. Khaki HBT makes for the main fabric, with beige HBT accents on belt loops/one rear pocket/one front pocket facing and button fly facing. The contrast will tone down with normal wear/wash routine.

This not-so subtle color contrast is a reference to wartime crunch productions, when government-contracted manufacturers pumping out utilities and dungarees had to be less regarding with QC. Quartermaster inspections were also more lenient.
Vintage specimen of military fatigues produced during WW2 with contrasting panels from different dye lots are not unusual. Some “Tropical Combat Uniforms” (jungle shirts and trousers) produced during the Vietnam conflict even randomly combined both lowland and highland ERDL camo in the same garment, and are at times referred to as “clown camo” by collectors. Those production “flukes” are my favorite.

The rear patch pockets of the swabbies are cut on a different bias (horizontal warp) than the legs, a feature of the original denim version.

The modified straight leg may be a little more wearer-friendly than the original navy bells for the less adventurous, although I really enjoy wearing mine around, and love the way that denim evolves with some wear. Note that the leg of the Swabbies Mod is less full than that of the Raiders‘.

The mfsc SWABBIES Modified are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
Dry 100% cotton HBT (herringbone twill), 9 Oz., vintage mil-specs, khaki greenish-brown (main) x beige (accents) color combo. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* An original mfsc pattern inspired by US Navy 1940’s-50’s private-purchase denim bell bottom trousers aka dungarees.
* Modified straight leg (no navy bells.)
* Period high-waisted cut.
* “Random” contrast color panels.
* Wrap leg (no outseam.)
* Black 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst metal donut waist & fly buttons.
* Front pockets combining complex patch-type and slash-type pattern due to the challenge of the wrap leg. No open seams.
* Rear patch pockets cut using horizontal warp.
* Flat lock chainstitch construction.
* Contrast beige all-cotton stitching.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* Woven rayon mfsc “FROGSVILLE” label on inside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The SWABBIES Mod come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and line dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

I (5’7 ~145Lbs) went with W31 in the SWABBIES Mod. The W30 fit me better at the waist but I liked the slightly roomier leg silhouette of the W31, subjectively.

For ref, I had opted for a W31 in the Snow Denim Swabbies, for a fitted top block, comfortable thighs and period bell-bottoms, and went with a W30 in the HBT Cut-Offs version.

CARE:
Low maintenance, launder when needed.
We recommend turning the garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2023 LookBook Preview, PART 2: “SPORTSMAN” catalog & more!

C) Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane mfsc FW2023 “SPORTSMAN” catalog

* MF® CAMPUS BLOUSE & CALIFORNIAN Lot.64, 13 Oz. Awa-Ai fiber denim (USA) *

* MF® DUDE RANCHER Shirt, cotton sateen (Japan) *

* MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot.64, cotton duck canvas, dark navy blue (USA) *

* MF® FRONTIER Chinos, NOS 2×1 denim (USA) *

* MF® ARISTOCRAT Shirt, double indigo twill *

MF® ARISTOCRAT Shirt, double indigo twill

* MF® CONTINENTAL Sportcoat & NOUVELLE VAGUE Slacks, “Player” denim *

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc FW2023 Preview, PART 2:

Welcome back, friends, and thank you for making it this far!

Next up is our FW2023 Sportsman line up, all produced in USA.

Besides the usual classic vintage-inspired workwear and rugged Americana additions, the design twist on the more dressy pieces this season is a reference to French “Nouvelle Vague” cinema and period 1960s European continental fashion, worked into contemporary wearables. Dig yourself the 1960 French version of the 1958 Coasters’ “Three Cool Cats” here, if you’re in a dancing mood.

Note that, although they are produced in Japan, we are including in this grouping our latest Dude Ranchers.

The FW2023 Sportsman line up consists of:
1) CAMPUS BLOUSE (aka Campus jacket), Awa-Ai fiber denim:
Our classic 1930s style leather jacket pattern translated into a woven fabric garment, a follow-up to the popular “Midnight” denim Campus jacket.
Fabric: Sugar Cane Co original Awa-Ai fiber denim, 13 Oz., 70% cotton x 30% recycled sugarcane fibers, white w/ green line selvedge ID. “Awa” is the old name of one of the States in the Shikoku Island of Japan, famous in the old days for its natural indigo (“Ai”). Denim woven on shuttle looms exclusively for SC, very neppy and textured, beautiful dark indigo color.

* Rounded collar cut from contrast camel brown 14 Oz wide-wale corduroy, a nod to vintage Lee® Storm Riders denim jackets.

2) CALIFORNIAN Lot.64, Awa-Ai fiber denim:
Our popular old school five-pocket silhouette.
Fabric: Sugar Cane Co original Awa-Ai fiber denim, 13 Oz., 70% cotton x 30% recycled sugarcane fibers, white w/ green line selvedge ID.

3) DUDE RANCHER Shirt, cotton sateen:
Our classic Western style shirt, in a new fancy edition, á la vintage 1950s Lee® Westerner shirts.
Fabric: 100% cotton sateen, 7 Oz.
Color options:
a) Ivory
b) Black
c) Sandstone (khaki)

4) CALIFORNIAN Lot.64, “Frontier” Duck:
Our popular old school five-pocket jeans silhouette, and a nod to 1960s brown duck Lee® Riders.
Fabric: Duck canvas, dark navy blue, 100% cotton, 12 oz., milled in USA.

5) FRONTIER Chinos, NOS 2×1 denim:
Limited 2nd run of the 2019 Sportsman Chinos “Frontier” edition, with updated stripe pocketing.
Fabric: 2×1 indigo denim twill, 10.5 Oz., dark indigo warp x grey weft, 100% cotton with a subtle waxy finish. Milled by Kurabo (JAPAN)

6) ARISTOCRAT Shirt, double indigo twill:
Our original dress shirt pattern, elegant yet casual.
Fabric: 100% cotton double indigo twill, NOS Kuroki, 7 oz., solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

7) NOUVELLE VAGUE Slacks, “Player” denim:
Inspired by European casual 1950s-60s fashion, with period French cinema references. Merging slacks and denim jeans. Frogmouth front pockets and snap button waistband.
Fabric: NOS 10.5 Oz. crosshatch “Player” denim twill, light indigo moss blue-green color, slubby weave of cotton-linen blend (linen or similar natural vegetal fiber), with a 1960’s ‘sharkskin’-type sheen, milled in EU.
Fabric previously featured on our Continental “Player” three-piece suit.

8) CONTINENTAL Sportcoat, “Player” denim:
Our staple unstructured sportcoat pattern, a versatile jacket inspired by French 1950s utilitarian work uniforms and period casual fashion.
Introduced in 2016, we are running a limited restock to match the 2023 Nouvelle Vague Slacks, adding an easy-to-wear two-piece suit option, perfect traveling companion for your next trip to the French Riviera.
Fabric: NOS 10.5 Oz. crosshatch “Player” denim twill.

That’s a wrap!

Our original FW2023 “SURVIVAL SCHOOL” mfsc collection, CALI-JAN, and SPORTSMAN line ups are designed in California by Mister Freedom® and exclusively manufactured in Japan and USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, in limited quantities.
Please note that the FW2023 lookbook/preview features show samples, not necessarily reflecting quality/fit/details/labeling of the upcoming production.

As always, besides the classic vintage style references, the common thread in all these original garments is the Mister Freedom® on-going commitment to ethical manufacturing, original designs, and resistance to fast fashion, with styles that will easily incorporate into one’s existing classic wardrobe.

Thank you very much for your renewed support.

Love from Sunny California,

c & Joe

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane msfc FW2023 LookBook Preview, PART 1: “Survival School” & Cali-Jan

A) Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co FW2023 “SURVIVAL SCHOOL”

* Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s MA-1 “BAILOUT” Flyer’s Jacket *

* Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane MF-41 UTILITY Jacket & MECHANIC Trousers, OG-107 Sateen *

* Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SNIPES Shirt, HBT, Army Green Shade 44 *

* Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane BARNSTORMER Jacket, Khaki Jungle Cloth *

* Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane PEACOAT, 14 Oz. SC301 “Okinawa” fiber denim *

B) Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo FW2023 “CALI-JAN” Souvenir Jacket

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co mfsc FW2023 Preview, PART 1:

FW2023 blog preview has been split in two parts for clarity, and is broken down in three A) B) C) groupings.

Dear Friends,

Hope this finds you well, healthy, and in good spirits.
Here is a preview of our Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane (mfsc) SS2023 collaboration, for your consideration.

Unlike what this avalanche of visuals suggests, we’ve kept things streamlined and concise this season. First grouping is a new capsule concept we’re calling “SURVIVAL SCHOOL”, small but packing a lotta punch, and featuring a collaboration piece with Buzz Rickson’s, to celebrate their 30th Anniversary.

A) FW2023 mfsc “SURVIVAL SCHOOL”:

This mfsc FW2023 “Survival School” capsule collection is an original line up freely-inspired by 40s~70s US military survival gear, vintage experimental MIL-SPECS garments, early NASA astronauts training program visuals etc.

Brief historical background of our storyline:

In the early days of WW2, a downed pilot’s chances of being rescued and making it back to safety were very slim.
The USAAF (United States Army Air Force) soon realized that training a serviceman in the art of flying was not enough. Arial combat training was lengthy, qualifying candidates few, so a skilled flyer needed to survive after a bail-out.
A downed aviator’s field experience was invaluable knowledge, and sharing that experience with new pilot recruits was crucial.

The odds of returning to base camp started changing with the establishment of “Survival Schools”, and the implementation by the DoD of proper “Survival – Evasion – Escape” training for all flying personnel. (timeline for USAAF here)

Newly-designed experimental gear was also being issued and tested in combat situations and survival circumstances.
Starting in the mid-1940s, official films recreating fictitious survival scenarios (jungle, desert, mountains, arctic) were produced, and became required viewing during training and on base. (Castaway, 1944)
Swimming skills became a requirement for all aircrews. Survival crash courses through tough physical training and studies of illustrated manuals became mandatory for Army Air Force and USN flyers.
Training in basic survival skills, acquiring jungle and mountain terrain knowledge, exotic fauna and flora expertise, learning about wilderness adaptability, food foraging, land navigation techniques, cold and hot weather survival, local language and customs essentials, expertise in blending with the elements to avoid capture, evasion tactics, …, all lead to greater chances to make it home for American flyboys.

Techniques, technology, and TO (Theater of Operations) have obviously evolved through the years for US Armed Forces, and so have instructions in survival manuals. If what applied to the Korean cold front in the 50s had to be adapted to Vietnam’s steamy jungles in the 60s, the basics and message remained the same after “Survival School”: “you now have the skills to live another day”, Sir.

For more background on our R&D inspiration and design process, check out:
* Vintage USAAF and USN pilot survival gear.
* Visuals from 1950s-1970s US military survival program, from “Arctic Indoctrination Survival School” (aka “Cool School”) to “Tropical Survival School” (aka “Green Hell”), to “Survival, Evasion, Resistance and Escape” (SERE) training.
* Visuals from NASA astronauts on desert/jungle survival training (+ here) or geological field trips ( photos 1965, 1965, 1965, 1967, 1969…)

: Natick label on a vintage 1970 Float Coat

One may notice the double labelling, branding this small collection.
The bottom woven label is our familiar “MFSC Naval Clothing Tailor”, partly covered by a printed cloth label stitched on top, a nod to the little-known Quartermaster Research Facility (aka Natick Army Labs), a US Department of Defense organization located in Natick, Massachusetts. The “CLOTHING & TEXTILE RESEARCH UNIT” has been tasked with designing and developing anything from new uniforms/gear/fabrics/camo/etc for the US military since 1952. The double labelling conveys the “test gear” approach of our designs.

Again, no replicas this season, just imagined (or re-imagined) garments that “might have been”, with the usual grain of salt and design liberties we like to take with History, and the reassurance that we do not take ourselves too seriously, resulting in garments easily workable into a classic wardrobe.

FW2023 mfsc “SURVIVAL SCHOOL” line-up:

1) MA-1 “BAILOUT” Flyer’s Jacket, Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s 30th Anniversary:
Inspiration: Vintage early to mid-60s USAF MA-1 (MIL-J8279 Type D) flight jackets.
Fabric: heavy 2×2 nylon twill shell (rescue orange) and lining (1960s sage green).

* All period-correct Mil-Specs fabric & trims + construction/manufacturing/expertise courtesy of Buzz Rickson’s (Toyo Enterprise)
* Fully reversible, Indian orange side out as the main side.
* Wool knit collar/cuffs and zipper tape: contrast sage green.
* Vintage Mil-Specs zippers and wool/cotton pile interlining.
* Sleeve utility pocket on rescue orange side.
* Made in Japan as a collaboration with Buzz Rickson’s.
Note: CL production size = SMALL

2) MF-41 UTILITY Jacket:
Inspiration: US Army M1941 HBT utility jacket + mfsc 2015 Utility Jacket
Fabric: OG-107 cotton sateen, vintage Mil-Specs, 9 Oz.

* Black painted starburst tack buttons.
* Unlined, all clean seams.
* Made in Japan
Note: CL production size = SMALL

3) MECHANIC Trousers:
Inspiration: 1950s USAF mechanic Utility Trousers (MIL-T-4335A) + mfsc 2014 Mechanic Trousers
Fabric: OG-107 cotton sateen, vintage Mil-Specs, 9 Oz.

* Orange cotton rip-stop inside reinforcement accents.
* Orange snap accent on side cinch tabs.
* Button fly, corozo buttons.
* Map pocket on left lower leg.
* Made in Japan
Note: CL production size = W30 or W32

4) SNIPES Shirt:
Inspiration: a revisited vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform pattern + our classic mfsc 2020 Snipes Shirt.
Fabric: Cotton HBT cloth, ~6 Oz., Army Green shade 44 (AG-44), white selvedge ID.
Note: CL production size = SMALL or MEDIUM

4) BARNSTORMER Jacket:
Inspiration: 10-button Peacoat + 2010 mfsc P-Jacket + vintage civilian 1940s USN “Barnstormer” deck jackets.
Fabric: Heavy 100% cotton jungle cloth, 14 Oz., 1940s USN khaki.

* Classic 1910s~1920s USN wool peacoat pattern/construction.
* Fully lined (beige corduroy for body & OG-107 sateen for arms)
* 1920s style 13-Star buttons.
* Black leather contrast pocket welt/pocket stops.
* Detachable chin strap.
* Tonal stitching.
* Made in Japan.
Note: CL production size = 38

5) Denim PEACOAT:
Inspiration: revisited original mfsc 2008 denim P-Jacket (Peacoat), our take on vintage 10-button USN/USCG Peacoats.
Fabric: Sugar Cane Co original SC301 “Okinawa” fiber denim, 14 Oz., 80% cotton x 20% Okinawan recycled sugarcane fibers, white selvedge ID.

* Classic 1910s~1920s USN wool peacoat pattern/construction.
* Fully lined (beige corduroy for body & OG-107 sateen for arms)
* 1920s style 13-Star buttons.
* Black leather contrast pocket welt/pocket stops.
* Detachable chin strap.
* Ivory contrast stitching.
* Made in Japan
Note: CL production size = 38

B) Mister Freedom® x Tailor Toyo FW2023 “CALI-JAN” Souvenir Jacket:

Next up is our 4th collaboration to date with Tailor Toyo (renown branch of Toyo Enterprises), the Master of “Sukajan”, and this number stands on its own.

Inspiration: This style of jackets has its origin in the naval base of Yokosuka, Japan, where skilled tailor shops have provided souvenir apparel to military personnel stationed there since the mid-1940s.
Sukajan is a composite word morphing (Yoko)Suka and the term Jaanpa borrowed from the english word jumper (ie. baseball/bomber style jacket.)

Following our debut 2015 Saigon Cowboy Party Jacket, explosive 2016 Mururoa Jacket, stellar 2017 Apollo Jacket, here comes the CALI-JAN, blending California vibes, 1960’s Vietnam-made souvenir jacket graphics (Viet-Jan) and 1950’s Japan-made jacket styles and visuals.

We were in uncharted waters during R&D, with many choices to make regarding style/color combo/stitching/etc, and I was very attached to not end-up with an original garment that would look too contemporary or fashiony. And, as the CALI-JAN would be fully reversible, there were two sides to consider!

At the end of a long process – and thanks to the team of experts at Tailor Toyo, the company’s long history with producing authentic sukajan, extensive communication with our dear friend Tanaka San (aka Tom) to coordinate it all, and, to the credit of Toyo’s network of skilled and experienced artisans who hand-operate the vintage embroidery machines – this modern rendition (from a poorly-executed doodle to the finished garment) turned out pretty cool!
Our 2023 CALIJAN looks legit, straight out of Dobuita Dōri circa 1955!

The original graphic pays respect to our beloved State of California, USA, and references a mixed bag of random iconic slices of Americana, from Frank Bullit’s 1968 green Mustang in the streets of San Francisco, to Buck Owen’s cheap patriotic acoustic guitar and the Bakersfield Sound, to Marilyn Monroe’s time on Catalina Island, to 1960’s surfer culture (CA State official sport), to California poppies (CA State official flower), to Blue & Gold (CA State official colors), to the endangered Joshua Trees etc…
And of course, the ubiquitous Joe Greene, aka Couscous, Sleepy Joe, the Dude, …, and actually the only native Californian involved in this whole project!
Cowabunga, says the Dude.

Fabric: 100% rayon fine twill.

* Fully reversible.
* Traditional ‘loose’ two-tone wool knit.
* Vintage style 50s zipper.
* Quilted pattern shell.
* Crafted (this word is abused in but does apply here) in Japan in very limited quantities.
Note: CL production size = MEDIUM

Next blog post will focus on FW2023 additions to the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane SPORSTMAN catalog, and more…

Hang in there, and thanks for taking the time to look/read!

Mister Freedom® “One-Zero (1-0) Jacket”, mfsc SS2023 “Frogsville x Saigon Classified” collection. Made in Japan

MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Smock, black Mil-Specs BR nylon & French Lizard Camo cotton canvas.
SS2023 mfsc “Frogsville x Saigon CLASSIFIED” collection.
Made in Japan.

SS2023 “Frogsville x Saigon CLASSIFIED”, the story:
This mfsc season blends two familiar original Mister Freedom® concepts, FROGSVILLE and an old flame, Saigon Cowboy.

Our FROGSVILLE saga is an original stylistic venture freely inspired by Vietnam-era US combat diver imagery, military rigger-made garments and period custom local tailor-made clothes, all thrown in the Mister Freedom® blender, where we translated 1940s-1970s references and vintage influences into modern day wearables.
This season, we are bringing in some 1950s French Indochina vibe to the Frogsville mix, and even adding a covert operation MACV-SOG twist!

For those into Military History, intel on that twist – i.e. the secret war happening “across the fence” in South East Asia (1964~1972) – was eventually declassified in the 1980s, and the existence and deeds of SOG unveiled. With the sworn-to-secrecy agreements signed by all SOG members lifted, testimonies of survivors (casualty rate was known to be “100%”) and proper official acknowledgment of the heroic actions of those units were finally made possible. SOG stories even made it to the video game market… no comment on that.

So, grab the popcorn, click here, here (amazing writing skills!), or here, …, and enjoy the rabbit hole.

For facts and visuals, check out author John Plaster’s books, and collector Jason Hardy’s series of well-documented printed photo essays, in coffee table book format. Listen to John Stryker Meyer’s Sogcast for real in the field stories, from the horses’ mouthes. And, of course, Nick Brokhausen‘s mandatory and hysterical “We Few” and “Whispers In The Tall Grass“.

As per MF® SOP, no replicas for us in this SS2023 line up, just (re)imagined garments that “might have been”, with the usual grain of salt and design liberties we like to take with the past.
Each pieces is easily workable into any classic wardrobe.

MF® ONE-ZERO Smock, the inspiration:

On this garment, we are taking design cues and visuals from original One-Zero jackets, as sported by SOG (Studies and Observations Group) Recon Team leaders (1-0, pronounced one-zero) during the Vietnam conflict. On recon missions, a team leader would be assisted by a 1-1 (one-one, American radio operator), a 1-2 (one-two, the third American), and a highly-skilled and combat-seasoned selection of 9-10 indigenous troops (mostly of the Montagnards tribe, or “Yards”, also affectionately referred to as “the little people” by their tall American counterparts.)

Back on point. Three basic types of these black nylon jackets apparently exist (two pull-over front styles, and one full-button style), all developed and designed by legendary Deputy Chief Ben Baker at his CISO (Counter-Insurgency Support Office) supply operation, based on the island of Okinawa, Japan (1963-?), where custom sterile (unmarked, unlabeled and untraceable) gear such as rucksacks, Jungle Boots (the Okinawa Boot that influenced our MF® Trooper design), black pajamas (Uncle Charles’ favorite), sweaters, knives, …, were produced in total secrecy.

CISO 1-0 jackets were initially conceived as light rain jackets to be worn on ops, but were deemed too noisy in the bush and ended up being mostly worn around camp as “party jackets”, with sewn-on unit patches, custom embroideries and morale patches. Needless to say, originals are ultra rare, and I’ve never seen one. To prevent a plethora of knock-offs from flooding the militaria market, collectors are reluctant – and rightfully so – to publish detailed photos of the front, back and inside of those garments. This helps keep fakes out of private collections.

The MF® 1-0 only borrows the name and vibe of CISO 1-0 jackets. Instead of an un-inspired attempt at replicating an original verbatim, or using a civilian sport windbreaker pattern (which the originals were based on), we decided to dissect a basic Belgium Paratrooper 1955 jump smock (a garment with roots in the British paratrooper Denison smocks of WW2), and then imagined the design of what a plausible fourth type 1-0 jacket could have looked like.

We heavily tweaked the smock pattern in order to make it work for our project. We removed the now-useless “beaver tail” (typical paratrooper jacket detail, only useful if you plan to jump off planes), re-adjusted pocket configuration for better functionality, substituted the half-zip with a six brass snaps closure, moved the cinch tabs to the natural waistline, adjusted the length to sit just below the natural waist, etc…

We left the jacket unlined, with all clean seams, another construction challenge. We opted for an inside shoulder yoke cut from contrasting ERDL camo, for that “use whatever fabric is at hand” local tailor or rigger vibe.

The resulting garment features a very intricate construction/design, another “tour de force” from pattern extraordinaire Fukutomi Sensei of Toyo Enterprises.

The MF® 1-0 jacket is available in two distinct fabric options:

The Black nylon version is obviously a direct nod at the vibe of the originals, without the unit patches, featuring a heavy 2×2 100% nylon twill, same shell fabric grade as BR’s (Buzz Rickson’s) vintage Mil-Specs USAF replica flight jackets.
This version is a functional pull-over style wind-proof jacket, for the outdoors, all kinds of sporting activities or just for looking ridiculously fabulous.

The Lizard (or Lezard) camo version, printed canvas fabric, 100% cotton, is a nod to 1950s French TAP (Troupes Aéroportées), previously mentioned with the 2015 release of the MF® TAP Lezard “Vanden” Jacket.
Note: This disruptive pattern is our mfsc interpretation of the classic French TAP47 “Lizard” camouflage (aka “Lézzard” or “Léopard” as the French call it), popular during the 1950s Algerian War as the fabric of choice for French Paratroopers (TAP).
Introduced in Sept. 1950 and inspired by WW2 field-tested British Denison smock camouflage (source: “Paras Français Algérie 1954-1962”, Histoire & Collection ISBN: 978-2-35250-164-0), many different versions of the Lizard camo exist, not unlike its Tiger Stripes American successor. A lot of intel in this thread.
We opted for the TAP47 pattern (tan/khaki background with green and brown horizontal brush strokes, adapted for tropical theater as opposed to the darker/greener version of the European ETO), as used for M51-M56 tents.

Our source fabric is a genuine vintage NOS French M1956 canvas quarter-shelter tent. After much internal debating, we opted for a plain weave canvas base this time, as opposed to the HBT of our previously-released Lézard printed fabric from 2015.

This lizard camo version is a functional outdoor pull-over style jacket, for the outdoors, for standing out in urban jungles, and for looking equally ridiculously fabulous.

The MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Jacket is designed in California by MisterFreedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
FABRICS:
Two options:
1) Heavy 2×2 100% nylon twill, black, as featured on BR’s (Buzz Rickson’s) vintage Mil-Specs USAF replica flight jackets.
Inside shoulder yoke: 100% cotton ERDL camo ripstop.

2) French Lizard camo, 100% cotton canvas, about 10 Oz. Printed TAP47 pattern, tan/khaki background with minimal bleed-through (= the reverse of the fabric is solid tan)
Inside shoulder yoke: 100% cotton ERDL camo ripstop.

PATTERN:
* Style inspired by MACV-SOG 1-0 Recon Team leaders camp jackets.
* Garment pattern inspired by a vintage 1955 Belgium paratrooper jump smock, heavily edited.
* Re-fit “bat sleeve” arm pattern.
* Jacket length cut to sit just below the natural waist.
* Pull-over pattern, front snap closure.
* 6-snap front closure high neck rolls down for wind protection when fully snapped.
* Brass snaps for Lizard version, black-painted for nylon version.
* Six functional pockets: two front bottom patch pockets, two rear “map” patch pockets, two concealed chest pocket bags.
* Waist side cinch tabs, tripe snaps, with inside fabric reinforcement patches.
* Wrist cinch tabs, double buttons.
* Underarm ventilation stitched eyelets.
* Unlined, with ERDL camo shoulder yoke layering.
* OD HBT tape pocket opening inside reinforcements.
* All clean-seam “caballo” construction.
* Original mfsc Frogsville woven rayon label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
Both fabric options of the MF® 1-0 (One-Zero) Jacket come unwashed and are true-to-size after a cold rinse/machine spin dry/line dry.
We recommend the following simple initial process.

Cold soak garment for about 30mn in bathtub or washing machine, with occasional hand agitation.
Spin dry (spinning cycle) if using a washing machine.
Line dry/drip dry.

I’m about 5’7 / 145 Lbs and opted for a SMALL, for a comfortable and fit silhouette that matches my own subjective aesthetics.

CARE:
Machine wash (both canvas and nylon versions) on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Using a heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage and damage.

Mister Freedom® CAMPUS Blouse (Campus Jacket), Midnight Denim Edition, mfsc SS2023. Made in USA

Campus Blouse, Midnight Denim edition
SS2023 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

We introduced our original veg-tan leather Campus Jacket sometime in 2013, and have been considering a fabric version ever since.

After 10 years of procrastination, and about 3 years of actual R&D, we’re proud to announce the official release of the Campus Blouse Midnight Denim edition!

A bit of manufacturing background story, for those interested.

With the obvious challenges of having to adapt the overall pattern to an entirely new material (leather and woven fabric are two very different beasts in regards to garment construction), the need to tediously re-work seam allowance, using entirely different sewing machines, reevaluating feasibility/functionality of trims, adjusting fit according to fabric shrinkage, investing in costly repeat prototypes and pre-prod sample making, etc…, we had to delay the initial release several times.

For example, the cuff construction and sleeve-mounting technique used on our leather Campus did not work with a fabric shell. Since the Campus Jacket has an unforgiving no-lining design (i.e. no way to hide cheap overlock seams and unsightly construction under a fancy fabric lining), we decided to use the alternative sleeve/cuff pattern of our Ranch Blouse instead. Both Campus and RB morphed into a “Campus Blouse”, if you will, in perfect harmony, with a clean, sturdy, flat-felled “caballo” stitch construction.
Side note, “caballo” is how we refer to the traditional denim flat-felled seam stitch here in California, because most skilled factory operators are latinos, and the industrial chainstitch sewing machine they use kinda looks like a horse head. (caballo is Spanish for horse.)

Also, due to fabric thickness issues with the seams/caballo machine folding foot, we had to source out a lighter ounce denim for the side gussets and pocketing/welting fabric. We scored a NOS premium double indigo twill, with a subtle and attractive indigo color contrast.
No need to flash denim selvedge like it was 2007 either, so the selvedge ID of the main 16 Oz MD denim is concealed inside various structural seams, while the fold of the side gussets offer a peak of the lighter ounce denim selvedge.

Another challenge was the side cinch tabs… We wanted to keep the straps made of leather, along with the pocket stops, but it proved technically impossible to “sandwich” leather straps in the caballo seams without weakening seam construction. So we went back to the drawing table, and worked on a new cinch strap design/shape, inspired by an old number of ours, the Drover Blouse. Mister Freedom® OGs may remember that 2012 production stunt we pulled… Once the new side strap design worked, we had some cutting dies made, and contracted out the leather trims cutting to a local LA leather factory, so that the leather trims could be dropped off at our local LA denim factory…

After all that back and forth, our beloved local family-owned factory – the same folks who have been producing all of our mfsc USA denim goods since 2007 – even considered giving up on the whole project! Too complicated, time-consuming, no profit there. Can’t blame them considering the very limited quantities we would eventually order from them after all that R&D… But, that family (we love them) takes pride in producing solid garments, so they stuck to the challenge.

Side note, it’s actually the second time the Campus MD is part of our Sportsman Catalog! Production just didn’t materialized the first time MF® HQ announced it. We chose to get it right, rather than to get it right now. Now that’s slow fashion.

So, with no further ado, there it is! The 2023 Campus MD looks goods, fits as intended, construction is clean in and out, and has the Joe Greene paw of approval.

This first fabric version of the MF® Campus features one of our staple denim twill, the mighty 16 Oz. selvedge Midnight Denim milled by our friends Sugar Cane in Japan. Fading potential hardly gets better than that.

And the Mustang is a rental while the old rust bucket gets overdue maintenance repair. My first time driving a muscle car, and loving it!

The MF® CAMPUS Blouse Midnight Denim is designed in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:

FABRIC:
Shell:
16 Oz. “Midnight” denim, dark indigo warp & black weft twill, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
Pocketing/gussets/welt:
NOS double indigo twill
Trims:
Black tea-core leather trims (pocket stops/side straps).

PATTERN:
* The long awaited-for woven fabric interpretation of our classic veg-tan leather Campus jacket!
* An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, with all necessary construction/pattern edits.
* Arm/cuff construction borrowed from our Ranch Blouse pattern.
* Trim 1930’s silhouette.
* One-piece back.
* Fully unlined, clean flat-felled seam construction.
* Slash pockets with leather arrowhead pocket stops.
* Subtle contrast NOS double indigo denim side gussets/pocketing & pocket welt.
* Side gussets featuring concealed double indigo denim selvedge ID.
* Adjustable side straps pattern inspired by our Drover Blouse.
* Keyhole button holes.
* Corrozo ‘Cat Eyes’ wood buttons (aka ivory nut)
* Mister Freedom® original ‘The Sportsman’ rayon woven label.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
* Joe Greene-approved.

SIZING:
The Campus Blouse Midnight edition comes UN-WASHED, and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
•Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
•Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.
•Wear briefly while still damp to set creases, then hang until fully dry.

My leather Campus jacket size is 38. I wear a 36 in this fabric Midnight denim edition, after cold-soak/line dry.
I’m about 5’7 , 145 lbs.
Please check actual post-soak measurements on our chart to dial in what works for your specific body specs/preferred silhouette.

Disclaimer: Using alternative methods for the initial shrink (such as soaking in hot water/full machine wash/heat dryer etc) will result in different sizing measurements, and is not recommended.
Do NOT boil this denim jacket, as it has leather trims.

CARE:
Wash when necessary, as other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jacket inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,