Mister Freedom® infos « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot54 Reissue (Lot54R), NOS Cone Mills XUV 12 Oz. selvedge denim, mfsc SS2024. Made in USA

Original Mister Freedom® Californian Lot54 ©2012 Cory Piehowicz Photography

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot54 Reissue (Lot54R), NOS Cone Mills XUV Selvedge denim, 12 Oz.
mfsc SS2024 SPORTSMAN Catalog
Made in USA

They are back!

The anticipated reissue of our very first MF® CALIFORNIAN blue jeans, an original vintage-inspired five-pocket pattern initially released in 2010, is finally out.
Same classic straight leg cut with traditional mid-rise, same trims, and same vintage New Old Stock (NOS) denim fabric.

We called that cut “Lot54” at the time, a nod the general silhouette/image of the “BRMC” blue jeans featured in The Wild One (1954).
To quote Johnny Stabler, “Now, listen, ya don’t go any one special place. That’s cornball style…Ya just go.” Snap.
Our revived traditional five-pocket design was obviously heavily-inspired by a combo of old Lee®/Levis®/Wrangler® classics, twisted MF® style.

The pair of Lot54 I wore at the time — I had much fewer MF® five-pocket options to grab from the closet back in 2010, so I went hard on those — is one of my favorite in my stash of Californians today. I save them for special occasions, and affectionately call them my “Sunday jeans”. That splash of red paint on the right leg is from the original MF® HQ facade facelift…

After much hunting around in local LA warehouses, we were lucky enough to score some forgotten yardage of the exact same Cone Mills selvedge denim of the original Lot54s, a coded “XUV” 12 Oz. indigo denim twill milled by Cone’s White Oak factory in Greensboro, North Carolina, when it was still operating. After 112 years of loyal service to the Denim and Fashion Industry, that facility notoriously closed in 2017, victim of corporate greed and offshoring fueled by a global audience’s thirst for cheaper goods. Whayagonnado.

If you’re into a classic pair of selvedge jeans with an old school silhouette, cut from vintage NOS USA-milled denim, sewn in USA, and with promising fabric evo potential, the MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot54R (reissue) may not be a bad choice.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot54R (reissue) are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from NOS Cone Mills premium selvedge denim milled in USA.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT54 cut features a traditional fit, classic mid-rise, with a straight leg for a 1950s-60s period vibe and silhouette.
FABRIC:
Fabric: New Old Stock Cone Mills “XUV” selvedge 3×1 indigo denim, 12 Oz., white with red line selvedge ID, milled in USA.
Pocketing: Classic NOS white 100% cotton twill.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed silver tack buttons.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Classic NOS cotton twill pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge, to impress friends.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket, to further impress friends.
* Concealed back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, initial 2010 yellow edition (with unedited smoking’ Johnny!)
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot54R jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and line dry, or drip dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.

The Lot54R are considered true-to-size. See our MF® Californian cut/fit references here.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs., I opted for my current W30 waist size, for a snug waist and classic generous 1950s-60s leg.
I’m going un-hemmed and un-cuffed with these.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.

CARE for your MF® denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Note that boiling your jeans will turn the leather patch into instant beef jerky, and attaching a new patch on an already-mounted rear pocket is about as easy as wrangling a pack of feral jackrabbits.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE “OG23”, NOS Cone Mills 12.75 Oz organic denim, mfsc SS2024. Made in USA

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE OG23 NOS Cone Mills Organic Denim.
SS2024 mfsc Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Our original RANCH BLOUSE design — a Mister Freedom® unisex spin on denim golden era “trucker” jackets, a Type-I-meets-Type-II type thing — remains pretty much unchanged from its 2010 inception: round A-1 style collar, unique lower slanted chest pockets with single pocket flap, “M” stitching on pockets, pleated front with signature arrowhead darts stitching, 30s-style buckle back etc…
Our denim jacket definitely has a 1930s~1940s flare, with its old-school design, period natural waist “boxy” cut and trim fit, and traditional workwear details.

: MF® Ranch Blouse early proto ©2010

: Holding the wall ©2010

: MF® Ranch Blouse, CL, about 6 months wear ©2011

: MF® RB, mix NOS denims ©2010

: MF® Ranch Blouse “Rodeo”, 2010

: Ranch Blouse “Uncle Sam” Photo courtesy Mr. Aticha Acha ©2016

: Photo courtesy Mr. Kang Chantrasri ©2017

: MF® Ranch Blouses ©2013

: MF® Ranch Blouse Pique ©2014

: MF® Ranch Blouse & Lot.674 (Ice Blue) ©2020

: MF® RB “Midnight” denim ©2019

: MF® RB 2xindigo ©2021

: MF® RB Black SC denim ©2021

: MF® RB canvas ©2023

: MF® RB canvas ©2023

: MF® RB “Bison” ©2022

: MF® RB “Randall” ©2022

To complement one’s collection of hillbilly tuxedoes, the crazy design team at Mister Freedom® is now releasing the classic RANCH BLOUSE in a traditional indigo blue selvedge denim perfectly matching its Californian Lot64 OG23 blue jeans pardner!
This handsome 12.75 Oz organic fabric — New Old Stock from Cone Mills — has a specific vibrant indigo hue reminiscent of older loomstate Levi’s 501® jeans that have been sitting for years on Army & Navy surplus stores’ shelves.

For those into denim fades, this indigo will chip fairly quickly with normal wear/washes, and, although not bound to yield high contrast “whiskers”, the fabric will deliver a very eye-pleasing palette of blues in one’s personal wear pattern.
The connaisseur will also appreciate that the selvedge ID on this fancy denim consists of a white and blue stripe, where the blue part is actual indigo! So, watch that selvedge fade.

My pair of Californian Lot64 OG23 — worn on and off for about a year, yard duty and all, fully washed a few times — started showing promising signs of patina quite early on.
This matching MF® RANCH BLOUSE will now require quite a bit of jig dancing to catch up, but I look forward to the results. And who doesn’t like to cut-a-rug on Dueling Banjos anyways.
Alternatively, have a partner do all the work, and just take full credit later on IG.

The MF® RANCH BLOUSE, OG23 “NOS Cone Mills organic denim” edition, is designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An all original Mister Freedom® pattern from 2010, inspired by vintage golden era denim “trucker” jackets, a unique Type-I-meets-Type-II style and classic cut.

FABRIC:
New Old Stock (NOS) Cone Mills organic denim, 12.75 Oz., white/indigo stripe selvedge ID.
Under collar & pocket facing: NOS cotton-linen crosshatch “Player” indigo denim.

DETAILS:
* Round-type collar, A-1 style.
* Period natural waist “boxy” cut and classic vintage silhouette.
* Pleated front with original MF® arrowhead dart stitching.
* Original and unique lower slanted chest pockets, single pocket flap.
* MF® “M” branding pocket stitch.
* Denim selvedge ID exposed on front panel fold.
* Contrast NOS denim twill facing for collar and pocket flap.
* Original MF®-branded ‘silver’ tack buttons.
* Buckle back, concealed selvedge cinch strap, adjustable, riveted.
* Copper rivet reinforced, unmarked hardware with leather washer backing.
* Vintage-style orange/yellow combo stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Traditional “caballo” construction.
* Original mfsc “Buckaroo” printed cloth neck label.
* Proudly made in USA in a small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® RANCH BLOUSE in OG23 denim comes UN-WASHED and is cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and line dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.

This jacket is considered true-to-size.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs, I went with a comfortable 38, my usual size in that pattern.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your clothes to fit, and on body proportions. Please refer to size chart or email sales@misterfreedom.com to dial your sizing in.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
We recommend turning indigo blue/denim garments inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Please note that dark indigo might cause color transfer, and potentially “bleed” on light-colored garments, furniture, and skin. This indigo color “crocking” is temporary.
Potential attractive patina will develop according to one’s activities, and frequency of wear/wash cycles.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

MF® Ranger Shirt, NOS Cone Mills 7oz “Midnight” Indigo Twill, SS2023 Sportsman catalog, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® RANGER Shirt, Cone Mills “Midnight” Indigo Twill.
mfsc SS2023 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

One could say that we are quite fond of the RANGER Shirt pattern, since we have, at this point, cut it in about 150 different fabrics since the original 2015-2016 NOS Madras release.

This versatile and timeless pattern is a Mister Freedom® take on classic 1930s-40s workwear-type shirting, a straight forward vintage utilitarian style with the de rigueur chinstrap and side gussets, double box-pleat chest pockets and contrast white poplin button placket.

For this release, we opted for a snazzy “Midnight” indigo twill — indigo warp x black weft, wide loom — fancy New-Old-Stock yardage milled by the original Cone Mills White Oak plant, Greensboro, NC. This all-cotton 7 Oz. twill has a deep dark indigo color face, and will age gracefully with normal wear/wash cycles.

If the ‘Ranger’ name hints at rugged Park and Forest Rangers and the early days of Conservationism, our “Midnight” Ranger is as comfortable in the woods, at the office, on a date, around town, or at home.

The Mister Freedom® Ranger Shirt Cone Mills “Midnight” Indigo Twill is designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from NOS fabric milled in USA.

SPECS:
FABRICS:
100% cotton 7 Oz. “Midnight” indigo twill, indigo warp x black weft, wide loom, New Old Stock Cone Mills fabric milled in USA.

DETAILS:
* Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by 1930s-40s workwear shirting and vintage utilitarian styles.
* Trim fit.
* Double chest pockets, inverted box-pleat, red bartack accents.
* Chin strap.
* Full button front with contrast white poplin button placket.
* Vintage-style classic “Cat Eyes” corozo wood buttons.
* Side gussets, rounded shirt tails.
* Chainstitch construction, 100% cotton thread, tonal stitching, high count.
* MF® Sportsman signature contrast green “caballo” stitching inside.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® Ranger Shirt “Midnight” Indigo comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
* Machine spin dry cycle, then line dry.

At 5.7’ ~145 lbs, I opted for a MEDIUM for a rather trim fit. Note that I tend to be a SMALL in most mfsc shirts lately.

Again, this Ranger Shirt “Midnight” Twill runs a bit small, some may consider sizing up, understanding that what will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit.
Please refer to our sizing chart reflecting soaked measurements (= 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Heat dryer may result in excessive/irreversible shrinkage.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 VDL14, Vidalia Mills Black Selvedge 14 Oz. Denim Edition, mfsc SS2024, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64 VDL14, Vidalia Mills Black Selvedge Denim Twill, 14 Oz., milled in USA.
mfsc SS2024 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

If I were a fashion blogger I would start with “One of the problems with classic black denim jeans is what to not pair them with…”
Instead, as illustration, below is a plethora of smashing MF® outfits, in all kinds of awkward poses and situations. Same black jeans, and too much time on my hands.

We acquired some very cool yardage of black selvedge denim for this project, with the simple intention of releasing an unpretentious, classic cut, home-grown pair of solid black Mister Freedom® Lot64 Californian.

Milled by Vidalia Specialty Mills in Vidalia, Louisiana, this black selvedge denim twill fabric has quite the historical background. The looms it was produced-on — a few restored vintage 1940s Draper X3 looms — were purchased sometime in 2017 from the iconic Cone Mills White Oak Plant by a North Carolina demolition contractor by the name of Will Dellinger (JW Demolition).
Familiar to all heritage denimheads as the American mill responsible for Levi’s® golden age good looks, Cone Mills folded its domestic operation in 2017, looking for greener pasture and off-shoring to China and Mexico.
The machines were in turn procured by Vidalia in 2019. Apparently 46 machines total.
Of note, Cone still has somewhat of its legit USA denim-producing legacy going strong thanks to the dedicated crew at Proximity Denims since 2021.

If the above chain of events sounds like a whole season of Dallas, it’s probably because the world of American Denim carries about the same amount of intrigue.

What is less plot-driven and more transparent is that the premium denim fabric of the Mister Freedom® Lot64 VDL14 is a black warp x black weft twill, 14 Oz., milled in Louisiana, and that our jeans are cut/sewn in California, USA, the combination of which is bound to make you look fabulous and feel fantastic for years to come. Dress ‘em up, dress ‘em down, go Jailhouse Rock or 30 Rock, these classic black jeans will tell the story you choose.
Please note that these Lot64 VDL14 run fuller in the leg than our typical Lot64s, with a silhouette closer to our Lot54. Be sure to read the sizing section and check the measurement chart, as some may decide to size down one inch from their usual Lot64 size.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from Vidalia Mills premium selvedge denim milled in USA.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly-tapered leg for a 1950s-60s period vibe.
FABRIC:
Fabric: 100% cotton black warp x black weft bull denim, 14 oz., white/red selvedge ID, milled in USA by Vidalia Mills on Cone Mills legacy Draper-X3 looms.
Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton canvas, rusty red color.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed tack buttons, brass waist / silver fly combo.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS cotton canvas pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Black tea-core cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* 100% cotton threads construction, black tonal stitching.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, black VDL14 edition.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64 VDL14 black denim jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and line dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases (optional), then hang until fully dry.

The Mister Freedom® Lot64 VDL14 runs a full size larger than the tag and we recommend sizing down one full size from your normal waist size. Example: If you typically wear pants with a 32” inch waist, we recommend a size 31 in the MF® Lot64 VDL14.
See MF® Californian fit references here.
CL advice: At 5’7 ~145 Lbs., I opted to size down to a W29, for a snug waist and classic 1950s-60s silhouette.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.

CARE for your black denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Note that boiling your jeans will turn the leather patch into instant beef jerky, and attaching a new patch on an already-mounted rear pocket is about as easy as wrangling a pack of feral jackrabbits.

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans Lot674, Special AWA-Ai Fiber Denim Edition, mfsc SS2024, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot674, special AWA-AI fiber denim edition.
mfsc SS2024 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Following the recent FW2023 release of the Lot64 and matching Campus Blouse in a very special “Awa-ai” indigo denim twill — painstakingly developed in Japan by our friends at Sugar Cane Co —, we decided to also cut a few Californians Lot674 for SS2024.

How special this selvedge denim fabric is was discussed at length previously. This release is about the cut, one of our popular 1960s-vibe stove pipe silhouette, our slimmest tapered leg.
A straight-forward recap of all Mister Freedom® Californians five-pocket classic fits — Lot44, Lot54, Lot64, Lot74 and Lot674 — can be found here.

Below is an approximate side-by-side visual comparaison of 4 of those timeless silhouettes, in various denim fabrics released through the years. All Californians pictured are W30, some well-worn, some just rinsed, some hemmed etc…
I am wearing a W30 Californian Lot674 Awa-Ai for the photo, a bit too slim-looking for my taste, so I actually purchased a W31 with slightly more room in the leg. Just personal taste, and because I’ve probably watched too many old movies.

Note to denimheads: this Awa-Ai denim is pretty resilient and will require a bit of work to eventually show signs of natural wear. We recommend yard work — or similar outdoor activities — over couch surfing for quicker results. My Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai — same fabric, different cut — are slowly starting to show some “indigo action” after being worn on/off for a few months.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot674 are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from premium SC Awa-ai fiber denim milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT674 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slim tapered leg for a 1960s period vibe.
FABRIC:
Sugar Cane Co “AWA-ai” fiber denim (blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers), 13 Oz., white/green line selvedge ID, dark indigo hue, dry, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan.
Pocketing: Fancy NOS 100% cotton twill, woven stripe (white pinstripe on navy blue background.)
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed tack buttons, brass waist / silver fly combo.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Fancy NOS stripe twill pocketing.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, red “Sakura” edition.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot674 AWA-Ai denim blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and line dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.

These Lot674 Awa-ai Californians are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I opted for a W31 in these (5’7 ~145 Lbs.), flood-length hemmed, for a classic 1960s silhouette.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.

CARE for your Awa-ai denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot-cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.