Mister Freedom® infos « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 VDL14, Vidalia Mills Black Selvedge 14 Oz. Denim Edition, mfsc SS2024, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64 VDL14, Vidalia Mills Black Selvedge Denim Twill, 14 Oz., milled in USA.
mfsc SS2024 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

If I were a fashion blogger I would start with “One of the problems with classic black denim jeans is what to not pair them with…”
Instead, as illustration, below is a plethora of smashing MF® outfits, in all kinds of awkward poses and situations. Same black jeans, and too much time on my hands.

We acquired some very cool yardage of black selvedge denim for this project, with the simple intention of releasing an unpretentious, classic cut, home-grown pair of solid black Mister Freedom® Lot64 Californian.

Milled by Vidalia Specialty Mills in Vidalia, Louisiana, this black selvedge denim twill fabric has quite the historical background. The looms it was produced-on — a few restored vintage 1940s Draper X3 looms — were purchased sometime in 2017 from the iconic Cone Mills White Oak Plant by a North Carolina demolition contractor by the name of Will Dellinger (JW Demolition).
Familiar to all heritage denimheads as the American mill responsible for Levi’s® golden age good looks, Cone Mills folded its domestic operation in 2017, looking for greener pasture and off-shoring to China and Mexico.
The machines were in turn procured by Vidalia in 2019. Apparently 46 machines total.
Of note, Cone still has somewhat of its legit USA denim-producing legacy going strong thanks to the dedicated crew at Proximity Denims since 2021.

If the above chain of events sounds like a whole season of Dallas, it’s probably because the world of American Denim carries about the same amount of intrigue.

What is less plot-driven and more transparent is that the premium denim fabric of the Mister Freedom® Lot64 VDL14 is a black warp x black weft twill, 14 Oz., milled in Louisiana, and that our jeans are cut/sewn in California, USA, the combination of which is bound to make you look fabulous and feel fantastic for years to come. Dress ‘em up, dress ‘em down, go Jailhouse Rock or 30 Rock, these classic black jeans will tell the story you choose.
Please note that these Lot64 VDL14 run fuller in the leg than our typical Lot64s, with a silhouette closer to our Lot54. Be sure to read the sizing section and check the measurement chart, as some may decide to size down one inch from their usual Lot64 size.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot64 are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from Vidalia Mills premium selvedge denim milled in USA.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slightly-tapered leg for a 1950s-60s period vibe.
FABRIC:
Fabric: 100% cotton black warp x black weft bull denim, 14 oz., white/red selvedge ID, milled in USA by Vidalia Mills on Cone Mills legacy Draper-X3 looms.
Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton canvas, rusty red color.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed tack buttons, brass waist / silver fly combo.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* NOS cotton canvas pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Black tea-core cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* 100% cotton threads construction, black tonal stitching.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, black VDL14 edition.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® Californian Lot64 VDL14 black denim jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and line dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases (optional), then hang until fully dry.

The Mister Freedom® Lot64 VDL14 runs a full size larger than the tag and we recommend sizing down one full size from your normal waist size. Example: If you typically wear pants with a 32” inch waist, we recommend a size 31 in the MF® Lot64 VDL14.
See MF® Californian fit references here.
CL advice: At 5’7 ~145 Lbs., I opted to size down to a W29, for a snug waist and classic 1950s-60s silhouette.
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.

CARE for your black denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Note that boiling your jeans will turn the leather patch into instant beef jerky, and attaching a new patch on an already-mounted rear pocket is about as easy as wrangling a pack of feral jackrabbits.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Blue Jeans Lot674, Special AWA-Ai Fiber Denim Edition, mfsc SS2024, made in USA.

Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot674, special AWA-AI fiber denim edition.
mfsc SS2024 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

Following the recent FW2023 release of the Lot64 and matching Campus Blouse in a very special “Awa-ai” indigo denim twill — painstakingly developed in Japan by our friends at Sugar Cane Co —, we decided to also cut a few Californians Lot674 for SS2024.

How special this selvedge denim fabric is was discussed at length previously. This release is about the cut, one of our popular 1960s-vibe stove pipe silhouette, our slimmest tapered leg.
A straight-forward recap of all Mister Freedom® Californians five-pocket classic fits — Lot44, Lot54, Lot64, Lot74 and Lot674 — can be found here.

Below is an approximate side-by-side visual comparaison of 4 of those timeless silhouettes, in various denim fabrics released through the years. All Californians pictured are W30, some well-worn, some just rinsed, some hemmed etc…
I am wearing a W30 Californian Lot674 Awa-Ai for the photo, a bit too slim-looking for my taste, so I actually purchased a W31 with slightly more room in the leg. Just personal taste, and because I’ve probably watched too many old movies.

Note to denimheads: this Awa-Ai denim is pretty resilient and will require a bit of work to eventually show signs of natural wear. We recommend yard work — or similar outdoor activities — over couch surfing for quicker results. My Californian Lot64 Awa-Ai — same fabric, different cut — are slowly starting to show some “indigo action” after being worn on/off for a few months.

The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot674 are designed and made in California, CA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from premium SC Awa-ai fiber denim milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT674 cut features a traditional fit, classic rise, with a slim tapered leg for a 1960s period vibe.
FABRIC:
Sugar Cane Co “AWA-ai” fiber denim (blend of 70% cotton x 30% sugarcane fibers), 13 Oz., white/green line selvedge ID, dark indigo hue, dry, hairy and neppy, milled in Japan.
Pocketing: Fancy NOS 100% cotton twill, woven stripe (white pinstripe on navy blue background.)
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Classic mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed tack buttons, brass waist / silver fly combo.
* Selvedge leg outseam.
* Fancy NOS stripe twill pocketing.
* MF® original white “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Selvedge button hole fly placket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, red “Sakura” edition.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.

SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot674 AWA-Ai denim blue jeans come UN-WASHED and are cut so that actual measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and line dry.
Wear briefly before fully-dry to shape and set creases, then hang until fully dry.

These Lot674 Awa-ai Californians are considered true-to-size.
A tagged W32 will most-likely be the right size for an individual with an approximate measured waist of +/- 32 inches, and with average body proportions. Note that your natural waist is a bit bellow belly button level, not bellow the hips.
I opted for a W31 in these (5’7 ~145 Lbs.), flood-length hemmed, for a classic 1960s silhouette.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.

CARE for your Awa-ai denim jeans:
Wash when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
We recommend turning the jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments.
Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. Using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
As with all indigo-dyed denim, temporary croaking (color bleeding) is to be expected, and the indigo color could potentially rub on light color garments and furniture. Indigo rubs can easily be spot-cleaned using a small amount of laundry detergent on a clean damp cloth.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® SNIPES Shirt, Army Green cotton HBT shade AG-44, mfsc FW2023 “Survival School”. Made in Japan.

Mister Freedom “SNIPES” Shirt, cotton HBT, Army Green shade 44 (AG-44)
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.

The pattern of the MF® SNIPES is inspired by the earliest model of US Gov-issued uniform shirt in a full button-front design, a departure from earlier 1/2 button-front pullover styles.

Identified as Specs “No. 8-26C Shirt, Flannel, Olive-Drab, Coat Style” by the Quartermaster Corps, it was introduced sometime in 1933 and issued to US Army and Air Corps personnel and FDR’s CCC enrollees alike. This new “Pattern 1933” uniform shirt was deemed “Coat Style”, marking a practical departure from its predecessor, the mustard color pullover wool shirt commonly associated with WW1 Doughboys. The overall design was borrowed from civilian workwear, back when utilitarian garment-making skills bordered on fancy tailoring prowess. This is definitely an intricate pattern by today’s workwear clothing standards, Dickies and the likes.

Besides the full six-button front placket improvement, the characteristics of the early 8-26C shirt included a one-piece unstructured collar (no collar band), a singular style of elbow reinforcement patch, and two large functional chest pockets, each with a pen slot.

The Mister Freedom® SNIPES retains all of that military design DNA, and we only decided to get creative with our choices of fabrics for each release.
This is our fourth iteration of the SNIPES, swapping the original US Army OD wool blend fabric with a Buzz Rickson’s Chambray in 2020, an OD cotton poplin in 2021 — a visual reference to classic US Navy N-3 type shirts —, and a light indigo HBT denim in 2023.

For mfsc FW2023 Survival School story, our SNIPES gets a new fancy skin, an all-cotton herringbone twill (HBT) in a classic US military color: Army Green shade 44 (AG-44) — think US Army Class A Green Service Uniform (1954-2015). This is an attractive textured and lightweight fabric, about 6 Oz., milled in Japan.

The term “snipes” refers to US Navy enlisted personnel working in the engine room, the “sailors that sail below”, also known as “Black Gang” for their grease-covered blues and dixie cup covers. See Machinist’s Mate Jake Holman’s dungarees for a Hollywood rendition.

The MF® SNIPES Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
100% cotton herringbone twill (HBT), classic Army Green shade 44 (AG-44) color, textured and lightweight (about 6 Oz.), milled in Japan.
SPECS:
* Pattern inspired by a rare vintage 1930’s US Army wool uniform classic shirt, revisited MF® style.
* Full 6 button front opening.
* Rounded tails.
* Brown corozo wood “cat-eye” buttons.
* Two large utilitarian chest pockets with flaps, each with a pen slot.
* Unstructured one-piece collar (no collar band.)
* Elbow reinforcement patches.
* White poplin button placket facing.
* Chainstitch construction with narrow folder.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Red bartack side seams in lieu of side gussets.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Survival School” double neck labeling: woven rayon “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” topped with printed “EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH UNIT” labels.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The SNIPES HBT AG-44 shirt comes RAW/unwashed. It is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

* Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

* Machine spin dry cycle, then line dry.

At 5.7’ ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL for a trim uniform-like fit.
We recommend sticking to your usual mfsc shirt size, understanding that what will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your shirts to fit.
Please refer to our sizing chart reflecting soaked measurements (= 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry.)

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Heat dryer may result in excessive/irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2023

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt, cotton sateen edition, FW2022 mfsc HOOPER collection. Made in Japan.

Introducing three smashing Mister Freedom® Dude Rancher family members in finer-than-frog-hair cotton sateen for FW2023!

Mister Freedom® DUDE RANCHER Western Snap Shirt, cotton sateen edition.
FW2023 mfsc Survival School x Sportsman collection.
Made in Japan.

This is not exactly our first rodeo when it comes to “cowboy shirts.” The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA, introduced during Fall 2013, was our first traditional “western snap” shirt and released in a variety of denim-related fabrics. We discontinued that pattern.

Its much fancier successor, the all-original MF® “DUDE RANCHER”, is our second spin on the style. The pattern is inspired by a selection of vintage “cowboy” shirts from our archives, each with specific variations of a style pioneered by Rockmount Ranch Wear legendary CEO Jack Weil starting circa 1946. “Papa Jack”, as he was called, is credited as the father of the modern Western shirt, and the first “designer” to opt for snap button closure, vs. the earlier 1930s shank button styles.

Our DUDE RANCHER pattern was of course twisted MF® style, and has become a Mister Freedom® staple since its 2019 poplin debut in our catalog. It is today available in a wide range of old school fabrics.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER features the expected western-style front and back curved shoulder yokes, but we decided on arcuate panels subtle-enough to keep the shirt not too “Roy Rogers”, no offense to the Singing Cowboy belting it out on his steed Trigger.
Our playful “M” branding on the chest pockets is disguised as decorative stitching. The tricked-out forearm pattern and intricate one-piece elbow/cuff reinforcement diamond-shaped placket is quite a garment construction tour de force, for anyone who knows his/her way around a sewing machine.
Another distinctive design choice are the painted metal snaps, reminiscent of sought-after vintage 1950s Ranchcraft or Blue Bell western shirts, as previously featured on the MF® Sportsman printed flannel Camp Shirts. If pearl snap buttons are more-commonly associated with traditional western shirts, these metal snaps are a bit more subdued and utilitarian.

Our fabric choice for this season is a nod to classic Lee® Westerner™ shirts, popular in the late 1950s/60s with dude ranch vacationers in search of a whiff of a romantic rugged Old West, and “Urban Cowboys” set to deck themselves out in western fashion alike. In pop music culture, “Cosmic Country” in the 1960s, and a revival in “Country & Western” in the 197os also brought some exposure to the style. I’ve always loved old sateen Westerners, and scoring one was always thrilling during my rag-picking days.

Vintage 1960s Lee® Westerner™ shirt label.

Our choice of black rayon fabric as the collar band facing/shoulder yoke lining is a reference to fancy specimen by the now-defunct classic “Tem-Tex” label and their elaborate Texas-made cowboy shirts. Our recent “Hooper” edition Dude Ranchers — available in four finer-than-frog-hair 1950s style cotton corduroys — are riding on that fancy trail.

Our original cotton sateen DUDE RANCHER western snap shirt will pair well with any classic wardrobe, and look sharp with traditional denim blue jeans or dressier slacks.

The MF® DUDE RANCHER Western snap shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Fancy 100% cotton sateen, 7 Oz., milled in Japan.
Three classic color options:
a) Ivory
b) Black
c) Sandstone (khaki)

SPECS:
* An original mfsc pattern, inspired by traditional 1950’s western-style shirts.
* Original western-wear arcuate front and back yokes combo.
* Attractive pointy pocket flaps, complementing the yoke pattern.
* 1950’s-style painted metal snaps (paint will chip with age.)
* Original curvy “M” decorative stitching on pockets.
* Intricate diamond-shaped cuff/elbow reinforcement patch.
* Vintage style side gussets.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* 100% cotton high-count tonal stitching.
* Original MF® mfsc “TRUCK STOP” woven label.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:
The cotton sateen MF® DUDE RANCHER comes RAW/unwashed. This shirt is cut so that the measurements match the labeling after an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

I opted for a MEDIUM on this DUDE RANCHER sateen edition, for a trim, traditional western “cowboy” shirt fit. (I’m 5.7’’ approx. 145 Lbs.)
Please note that I tended to size down on earlier versions, so do refer to our sizing chart for approximate soaked measurements to properly dial in your size.
This is how we measure. Please use those guidelines to compare measurements of a garment of a similar style you own (i.e. a shirt), and that fits according to your liking.
When in doubt, reach out to the MF® Team sales@misterfreedom.com with your body measurements and fit expectations to get educated sizing recommendations.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.

Mister Freedom® UTILITY Jacket, OG-107 cotton sateen, FW2023 msfc “Survival School”, made in Japan.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Co UTILITY Jacket OG-107 sateen.
FW2023 mfsc “Survival School”
Made in Japan.

Full credits to the folks at the “Philadelphia Quartermaster Depot” for coming up with this garment pattern circa 1941!
The design was adapted from civilian denim workwear styles popular at the time, and would briefly become the new US Army work/field jacket during the early years of WW2. The M-1941 jacket was issued in olive green HBT, under the moniker “Jacket, Herringbone Twill, Specification No. PQD 45.”
Incorporating commercial fashion designs in US military uniforms had become a thing in the late 1930s, as it was thought a “new look” would help boost morale for the troops, and instill “pride in uniform.”
The resulting modernized design of the M-1941 Utility Jacket proved fancier-than-needed in the field, not fully-practical in the front lines, and costly to manufacture. Additionally, intricate patterns and overly complicated tech-packs limited the amount of contractors able to deliver regulation uniforms on time, not an ideal situation during wartime production.
Read here for interesting specifics on WW2 military field uniforms.

: Eclectic US Army field jacket line-up (1943) (M1941 on right)

: GI Mule Skinners (1944) Courtesy Sam Cox

For us, that pattern was a perfect candidate to play with for one of our “might have been” MF® garments.
After updating the fit and tweaking a few things, we released a 2×1 denim version in 2015 (blog post), followed by a Melton wool/indigo twill CDO model.
For our Survival School venture, we thought of a matching top to the Mechanic Trousers, and the UTILITY Jacket pattern was selected as the companion of choice for a smashing OG-107 tuxedo! Right on time for the Holidays.
The fabric is a 9 Oz. vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, in that classic military shade of Olive Green we all love. Milled in 2024 as close as it gets to its 1952 GI ancestor (and I don’t mean the contemporary overly-slubby commercial renditions), our OG-107 cotton sateen is bound to age as gracefully as that of vintage fatigues.

The MF® UTILITY Jacket, OG-107 cotton sateen 2023 edition, is designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Fabric milled in Japan.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Revisited pattern of the US Army Spec No. PQD 45 M-1941 UTILITY Jacket.

FABRIC:
100% cotton, vintage Mil-Specs cotton-back sateen, OG-107 color, 9 Oz., milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Revisited pattern of the classic US Army Spec No. PQD 45 M-1941 UTILITY jacket.
* Unlined, all clean seams.
* Elegant curved notch lapel.
* Waist length, complimenting one’s natural waist.
* Side cinch straps, mil-specs metal sliders.
* ‘Bat sleeve’ pattern with gusset for arm hole comfort.
* Double chest pockets, expanding box pleats.
* Back panel expansion pleats.
* Large inner chest pocket, locked in panel construction.
* ‘Burst of Glory’ type metal tack buttons, black. Color will chip with wear.
* Adjustable cuffs, fancy shirt-sleeve style.
* Chainstitch construction, 100% cotton thread, tonal.
* Woven rayon label “MFSC NAVAL CLOTHING TAILOR” on the inside waistband, stamped sizing on neck.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/FIT:

The Mister Freedom® UTILITY Jacket OG-107 comes UN-WASHED, cut so that actual measurements match the labeling after the initial cold soak/line dry shrinking process. Recommended protocol:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.

Machine spin dry cycle, and line dry.

This jacket is considered true-to-size.
At 5’7 ~145 lbs., I opted for a SMALL, my usual current size in mfsc jackets, with enough room for a Medalist sweatshirt.
The size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit. Measure a jacket of a similar style you own and compare to our size chart, reflecting rinsed measurements.
This is how we measure.

CARE:
Launder when needed.
Turn garment inside out to avoid marbling during laundering. Machine wash, cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.
Excessive and irreversible shrinkage may result from using hot water and heat dryer.

Thank you for your support, and Happy Holidays!