 Californian Lot.64, and “Safe-T-Flash” reflector belt from VEB Leather.
“CALIFORNIAN” Lot.64 Blue Jeans, Made in USA
Mister Freedom® mfsc Sportsman 2013
The “CALIFORNIAN” is back.
We know the World needs another pair of jeans as much as it needs a third international major conflict, but we did it anyways.
Unlike the rest of the denim jeans out there boasting the intimidating “Highest Quality”, “World’s Best Denim” and “Unequaled Craftsmanship”, our Californian is simply a pair of five-pocket jeans cut from good denim, and made in Los Angeles, California.
Just like the fine folks coming up with iPhone OS, we like to fix what’s not broken around here, so, although related to our original Lot.54, the Lot.64 comes with a few modifications:
The denim we are using this time is a Japanese selvedge 13 3/4 Oz. indigo twill, milled on shuttle looms in Japan.
This white/pink selvedge ID denim is both slubby in texture and varies in color slightly. This is due to the contrasting shades of indigo and fluctuating size of the warp yarn. From a certain angle, the raw denim appears to have a subtle vertical stripe pattern or ring. With proper wear and normal washing this denim will develop a very nice patina. Wear and patina will obviously depend on your activities, with varied results according to whether you’ll be riding a desk or a horse.
Unlike the Lot.54, the leather back pocket patch now bears no branding and is left to the discretion of the wearer to customize or leave alone. The original white “M” pocket stitch is still there, keeping back pockets a bit more conspicuous than the Bayeux Tapestry type ornaments I see at times…
The back pockets of the Lot.64 are fully lined with the same fabric used for the pocket bags.
We added a printed cloth waist patch, already introduced on our Buckaroos blue jeans (so now you know what was hiding under the MF branded leather patch 😉 This cloth patch will fade, get dirty from your belt and eventually tear with repeat wear and wash.
Of more relevance to most is the slight change in leg silhouette of the Lot.64. versus Lot.54.
No, we still haven’t fallen to the dark side and made a skinny in a ‘vintage wash‘…
Instead adjusted the pattern so that the leg of the Lot.64 is slightly more sixties-ish, a bit more tapered in the lower part.
We also have decided to still offer the Lot.64 in two different length, not a very common feature these days, when ‘stacking’ is the norm. So, less need to worry about locating a Union Special for a hemming job.
I like the look of original hems and leg shape on old Levi’s 501s. Because several inseams were available, some tended to purchase their appropriately fitting length instead of cuffing or cutting. An old XX with its original hem has the very pleasant leg shape balance than seems to often lack when jeans are altered.
For the Californian, we have made TWO leg patterns, one for inseam 32 and one for inseam 34, and not merely shortened the length. This way the leg retains its shape (slightly ‘ballooning’.) This sounds like a lot of efforts for not much, but those who get it will appreciate. Of course this is all irrelevant if you’re into big cowboy-cuffs.
For pocketing, we are using two different types of New Old Stock fabrics, both indigo woven plaids. Similar in weight but different in pattern. The pocket bags are random and a specific plaid is not available in all waist/inseam. We just used up what was at hand, another “it-is-what-it-is” MF® funky way of doing it.
Designed and made in Los Angeles, California, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Please note that some of the photos show my own Californian Lot.64, worn on/off for about 3 months, rinsed twice. Production comes RAW, unwashed and NOT distressed.
The “Safe-T-Flash” reflector belt I am wearing in one of the photos is an original VEB Leather belt, hand crafted by USMC Master Sergeant Villanueva of Vintage Engineer Boots blog fame. Amazing craftsmanship on all his creations, made right were he is currently stationed. See some of them here and contact him directly for custom orders, from guitar straps to belts and wallets…
SPECS:
PATTERN
Original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by traditional 1950′s era blue jeans with a 1960’s twist. Adapted but shamelessly lifted from the iconic and almighty XX 501.
Silhouette inspired by vintage fits and old photography, BRMC meets Beatniks. Traditional mid-rise with straight slightly tapered leg.
FABRIC
13 3/4 Oz. selvedge Right Hand Twill indigo denim. White/pink selvedge ID. Milled on shuttle looms in Japan. (aka SC1966)
POCKETING
NOS 100% cotton woven plaid, indigo dyed yarn. Two different woven patterns, as they come.
DETAILS
* Five pocket, button fly, selvedge leg seams,…
* Original “M” stitch design and solid un-branded cowhide leather patch.
* Printed MFSC cloth patch on waist band.
* Hidden back pocket rivets with top pocket reinforcement zig-zag stitching.
* Fully lined back pocket with NOS woven plaid twill.
* Coin pocket with concealed selvedge.
* Twelve types of all cotton threads (gauge and color combination) used for construction. Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Selvedge button hole flap (yes, it’s under the overlock, we’re vicious.)
* Two inseam options. 32 or 34
* NOS all cotton woven plaid pocket lining.
* Original MF® metal cast waist/fly buttons.
*Unmarked copper riveting for reinforcement.
* Made in USA
SIZING/WASHING
The Californian Lot.64 comes UN-WASHED and cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an original cold soak/line dry. A tagged W32 x L34 “Californian” actually measures about 34” x 36½” before wash. It will shrink to approx. 32” x 34” after rinse/dry.
Which size works for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I wear a comfortable tagged waist 32 in the Lot.64
We recommend getting your usual waist size, although proper fit is a subjective matter and everyone has their own idea of what looks good.
As with all denim twill, shrinkage and stretching will occur for a while and will depend on the wearer’s body, activities and initial fit.
Although some like to wear their jeans raw, a more common option is the cold rinse/line dry/wear-when-damp. This allows to set creases and to have a stand-by-themselves pair of jeans the next day, an Instagram favorite.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/rinsed measurements. Please note that in our case, ‘rinsed’ means a 30mn cold soak, spin dry and line dry (ie minimal shrinkage).
Available RAW/unwashed/Un-sanforized
Sizes
W28 x L32 and L34
W29 x L32 and L34
W30 x L32 and L34
W31 x L32 and L34
W32 x L32 and L34
W33 x L32 and L34
W34 x L32 and L34
W36 x L32 and L34
W38 x L32 and L34
Retail $329.95
AVAILABLE on www.misterfreedom.com
Please email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered in the above ramblings.
Thank you for your support as always.
Some items available on www.misterfreedom.com
Indigo Melton “DROVER” Blouse
“Viva la Revolución” mfsc Fall 2013
Looks like some of our “Men of the Frontier” cowpokes-turned-filibusterers brought some of their gear along this season…
From the chilly Sierra Nevada trails to the banks of the Rio Grande, here come the Drover Blouse again… Some of you may be familiar with our original issue of this coat , made from recycled military blankets, natural color.
 Original Drover Blouse This time however, our wool coat took a little plunge (or 10 for that matter) in an indigo vat. Following a somewhat successful indigo dye test done some months ago on an off-white drover (only two dips), we decide to include an indigo option for our Fall 2013 line-up, after a tense and tumultuous board meeting that lasted an entire minute.
 Drover Indigo early Prototype The high grade Melton wool we used for this season Drover was milled and indigo dyed in Japan.
I was quite relieved when I realized that this project was not going to require my personal involvement with the dyeing process. Like they say, leave it to the pros.
Our Indigo Melton Drover is not garment dyed. Instead the natural wool was dyed first, then cut & sewn. This way, all the horsehide leather trims/lining keep their contrasting touch.
The body lining consist of a fabric we had milled in Japan, inspired by the unlikely indigo covert fabric liner of an 1890’s pair of trousers. This indigo covert is a recurring textile for our Fall 2013.
The arms lining are a cotton stripe ticking we have been using often for our mfsc products (same fabric originally used as watch pocket on our 7161 utility trousers, sometime in 2006.)
Over time and with normal wear, the Indigo Drover should get some interesting natural patina and I’ll be posting some evolution photos after winter. However, a wool jacket is not a pair of jeans, don’t try to speed up the natural aging process. Results in fading/patina will vary according to your activities.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan as a collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern, introduced as the “Blouse Chaparral” for Spring 2012. Inspired by 1920′s~30′s sport type jackets and other vintage outdoor coats.
FABRIC:
100% Melton wool, soft hand, 31 Oz., selvedge.
Indigo vat dyed, about 10 dips, deep dark tone.
LINING:
Fully lined.
Body: 100% cotton indigo covert twill (aka salt & pepper), 8.5 Oz.
Arm: 100% cotton ticking (white w/ blue stripes).
DETAILS:
* 1920′s~30′s type silhouette, high waist.
* Original round collar.
* Back darting and expansion gusset, 1930′s style.
* Side waist adjustable straps.
* Horsehide leather side and cuff cinch straps (with vintage NOS French metal slide buckles)
* Cowhide leather pocket trimming.
* Arrow chest pocket.
* Horsehide leather detachable chin-strap.
* Wool selvedge on front panels button facing.
* Seven button front. Brown Corozo wood buttons (aka Ivory nut).
* Full lining, 100% cotton.
* Tonal 100% cotton stitching.
* No exposed seam, no overlock.
* Limited Edition.
SIZING/SHRINKAGE:
Please do not wash. DRY CLEAN only.
We recommend wearing the jacket as is, and taking it to a professional environmentally friendly dry cleaner when cleaning is needed.
NOTE: Due to the nature of indigo dye, crocking is expected and normal. Some color will rub for a period of time, on car seats, sofas etc…. Indigo is also sun sensitive and will change in color when exposed.
The Indigo Melton Drover is true to size. I usually wear a 38 in mfsc, and a 38 Drover fits me snug. You might want to size up if you are in between two sizes, especially if you will be wearing sweaters or layering this winter.
Please refer to chart below for measurements. Please consider the thickness of the fabric (wool + lining) when figuring out sizing.
Available RAW/unwashed
Sizes
36 (small)
38 (medium)
40 (large)
42 (xlarge)
44 (xxlarge)
Retail $879.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call 323-653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for the support 😉
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West Side Story. The End.
“El Americano” Waistcoat
Fall 2013 ‘Viva la Revolución’ mfsc Collection
We introduced the concept behind our “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Collection during Spring 2013.
For the first chapter of this on-going saga for Fall 2013, let’s welcome a new character, el Americano...
Aptly nicknamed due to his whereabouts North of the Rio Grande, not for his barista skills, our gringo fought alongside Mexican revolutionaries during the 1910-1920 Revolution.
More often for financial gratification than ideological convictions, foreign soldiers of fortune from around the World joined the ranks of the Maderistas, Villistas and other rebel armies. They earned nicknames as colorful as ‘Dynamite Slim’ or ‘El Diablo’, which allowed them to keep the greetings of an introduction brief…
El Americano was special. Unlike some of his compañeros of the ‘Gringo Rag-Tag Battalion‘, and although a feared fighter, he fancied being stylishly clad at all times. As others remarked on his unlikely field attire, he would retort: “Hombre, I always dress to kill.”
Someone sneered, once. Just once.
Such the poet was El Americano.
Anyways, back to the reality of 2013…
Our “El Americano” waistcoat was inspired by several vintage early 1900’s European fancy pieces. Its lapel style is often a trademark of early Old West portrait photography. The pattern is a combination of fancy tailoring tricks and details.
We have developed no less than 4 entirely different fabrics for this waistcoat, all milled and dyed in Japan exclusively for mfsc. These options are:
a) Brown Duck, golden brown cotton sateen back.
b) Grey Covert Stripe, black cotton sateen back.
c) Indigo dyed Corduroy, black cotton sateen back.
The last developed fabric is an indigo yarn covert twill that was originally the lining of a pair of gentlemen’s trousers from the 1890’s. The most unlikely sight, although I’ve seen quite my share of unusual textiles used as linings in early tailoring. I always love discovering ‘hidden treasures’ when opening up a vintage garment, such as a ‘crazy’ lining in a formal piece. They were often not a fashion statement, rather the need to use up fabric left over from a previous project, at times when discarding perfectly fine supplies was not a National sport.
Vintage trousers lining This 8.5 Oz. selvedge indigo fabric is the inner lining of “El Americano”, for its three options.
The outer back piece is a tightly woven 100% cotton sateen, matching the body.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in small ethically run factories in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by early European style tailored waistcoats typical of early Old West attire.
FABRICS
a) Brown Duck : selvedge 100% cotton canvas, 13 Oz.
The inside part of the yarn being lighter in color than the outside of the yarn (same as that of the 1930’s hunting jacket with its amazing patina that inspired it) this fabric will age nicely with repeat wear.
b) Grey Covert Stripe: selvedge 60% cotton and 40% linen heavy canvas with a random stripe pattern. The random repeat makes this fabric look halfway between a covert (salt & pepper) and stripe type textile. Technically 12 Oz. it feels heavier because of the yarn gauge. It takes an entire day to mill about 17 meters of that fabric, on old shuttle looms. The factory was thrilled…
Fabric inspired by a vintage 1943 bag from the Swiss military. Yes, we look everywhere for inspiration. The only place off limit being what other contemporary brands do.
c) Indigo Corduroy: Mid wale 100% cotton corduroy. 14.5 Oz. Indigo vat dyed.
DETAILS
* Slim silhouette, Old West waistcoat style. Angled front panels and curved back vented one-piece panel.
* Small round lapel
* Off-set shoulder construction
* High buttoned style (7 buttons).
* Three front pockets
* 100% cotton sateen tonal back panel.
* Underarm gusset.
* Engraved coconut wood buttons, aka ivory nut, aka corozo (and no, not chorizo as my spell check suggests.)
* Full adjustable cinch back with French vintage New Old Stock metal slide buckle.
* Unbleached cotton sail cloth pocket lining.
*100% cotton tonal stitching.
SIZING/WASHING
All fabrics will shrink to approximately the same tagged size after an original cold soak and hang dry.
The reason for the original cold soak/dry is purely aesthetic. I like the natural torque/twisting of the fabric that gets rid of that desirable fresh-off-the-shelf look. As your waistcoat dries, fold and shape the collar to your liking, for a skinnier or fatter lapel (see the difference on the fit pix.)
For the Indigo Corduroy “El Americano” waistcoat, some crocking is to be expected when pairing with light colored garments, or sleeping face down on a fancy white sofa fully clothed.
Indigo ‘stains’ from rubbing wash off eventually.
I am usually a 38/medium and wear a 38 “El Americano” waistcoat.
True to size but refer to chart for rinsed/hang dry measurements.
Do not use hot water or machine dryer as this might result in excessive shrinkage.
Available raw/unwashed
Sizes
36 small
38 medium
40 large
42 Xlarge
44 XXlarge
Retail:
a) Brown Duck $439.95
b) Grey Covert Stripe $439.95
c) Indigo Corduroy $459.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Call the store at 323-653-2014 with any questions not answered above, or mail sales@misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support.
The “CAMP” Shirt, printed brushed flannel
“The Sportsman” Collection. Made in USA.
MFSC Fall 2013
Woven plaid flannel shirts have been a staple of many labels comes Fall. A bit more neglected than its woven sister is the printed plaid flannel shirt…
Printed flannel fabrics were popular in the 1940’s-50’s. Fabric printing being less costly than weaving and looming, printed flannel garments made it to store shelves in shapes of outdoor/work/western shirts, robes, pajamas, sleeping bags liners, hunting jackets linings…
Some prints were novelty types graphics but many were a trompe-l’œil that looked like woven patterns: tartans, plaids, herringbone, houndstooth, gingham… A combination of ink and discharge prints made the plain weave flannel fabrics look fancily woven from a distance.
The inspiration for our “Camp” shirt print was a vintage early 1950s flannel men’s robe (made by Montgomery Ward label “Brent’s”). I played with the original red color combo to come up with a ‘plausible’ second color option that didn’t exist in the catalog.
I had thought of making a robe but was soon punched in the face during a board meeting. I then decided to make shirts instead… It’s all about communication around here.
We sourced out some fine cotton flannel (selvedge, since we wanted to use the selvedge on the gussets) and it went through the lengthy process or getting dyed, printed and brushed (for a soft nap touch) in Japan before getting shipped to Los Angeles.
The shirts were then cut/sewn in a clean, ethically run factory, under the California sun.
The “Camp” adds itself to the “Sportsman” shirting catalog, our on-going concept introduced in 2012.
We are using our Sportsman shirt pattern, already available in indigo popeline, stripe ticking and chambray. This Fall, the painted metal snap buttons (by DOT) are a nod to vintage 50’s Wrangler or Ranchcraft western plaid shirts. Please note our ‘Camp” shirt is not a western cut/yoke type shirt.
The “Camp” displays our Sportsman signature green chainstitch on the inside, seen on the ‘very Christmas like’ dangling gusset run-offs.
Those of you familiar with old beat-up vintage 50’s printed flannel shirt know that they age well and look amazing with patina, once the print starts wearing off from slow abrasion, wash and wear and sun exposure. Don’t get too excited, that takes years wear of course. And in the field, not on the sofa.
Just something to think about if you have children. They are today making fun of your clothes but will someday proudly wear them when you have done all the breaking-in 😉
Designed and made in the USA by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN
An original mfsc pattern, inspired by vintage outdoor/workwear shirting.
FABRIC
100% cotton brushed flannel, dyed and ink/discharge printed in Japan.
Two color options
a)Red plaid
b)Black plaid
DETAILS
* Made in California, USA.
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original MF® chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front, metal painted DOT snaps.
* MFSC branded original embossed metal buttons for neck band closure.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count, tonal.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich MF® “Sportsman” signature.
* Side gussets with selvedge fabric.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
SIZING/WASHING
As most times with our clothes, these shirts come RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size.
I wear a Medium in all MF® shirts, and wear Medium in the Camp shirt as well.
Although 100% cotton, this flannel fabric has quite a bit of ‘mechanical stretch’ after being rinsed and dried, therefore adjusting itself slightly to the wearer.
For cleaning, we recommend cold water wash on gentle cycle and hang dry.
Please note that the shirts in the chart below were cold rinsed and fully machine dried, for your shrinkage reference only. Again we recommend hang drying them.
Available from our brand spanking new online store
Raw/unwashed
Size Small, Medium, Large, X-Large, XX-Large
Retail $299.95
Made in USA
For any questions please Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call the store at 323) 653-2014
Thank you for the support.
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