The “FREIGHTER” bag, recycled Government Issued surplus, USA made.

Freighter Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

Freighter Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

 

The “FREIGHTER” Bag, Made in USA
by Mister Freedom®

 

Although Antiques are green, this bag, 100% made from recycled bits and pieces, is red.

The ‘freighter’ is pieced together from recycled vintage Government Issued gear found in surplus warehouses.
We turned a small batch of vintage canvas mail bags from the “Department of State, Air Freight” (1970s-80s) into tote bags, a bat will be able to spot you with in the thickest jungle.
The bottom of those bags had been very roughly splattered or dipped in a hot rubber compound, for water proofing when in transit. Whoever was assigned the rubberizing stage of the manufacturing process was obviously paying attention to something else.
Each bag was originally stenciled and numbered.
The straps/handles are GI as well. They came out of a US military NOS wooden crate from 1967, and were originally strap down webbing straps used for transport/shipping purposes.

The original mail bags we recycled were very roughly, albeit efficiently and sturdily, constructed. Meant to be thrown around carelessly and intended to be visible in an ocean of cargo on the tarmac, they are not of a delicate or refine nature. Red and rugged.
When it comes to bags, the Mister Freedom® “Freighter” shares many similarities with the Hermès “Kelly”, as can be clearly seen on the photos. Our “Freighter”, however, is believed to be more practical as a grocery shopping/beach bag.

Designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®. Limited edition.

SPECS:
* 100% cotton canvas from recycled Government Issued mail bags with period stenciling. Rubberized bottom.
* Cotton webbing handles, mil-spec 1670-360-0540, olive green with red woven ID stripes.
* Four outer ‘kangaroo’ pockets
* Approx dimensions: Length 19” x Height 17” x Depth 5”
* Genuine parachute tie attached to grommet.
* Two side D rings.
* Olive Drab poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Weighs about 730g. (~1.6 Lbs)
* MF® painted stencil (will flake off.)
* Washable: When needed wash in warm water, inside out. Hang dry.
* Un-lined. (Please note that the rubberizing heat process penetrates the fabric and rubber can be seen going through the canvas, when looking inside the bag. It is not dirt.)
* Limited edition.
* Each piece is uniquely imperfect.

Retail $229.95

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Thank you for your support. And thank you in advance to the Hermès legal team for their sense of humor.
Please note that the top photo shows an early prototype of the “Freighter” (it had white stitching). Production comes as shown in the other photos.

‘El Jefe’ Henley shirt, “Viva la Revolución” mfsc Fall 2014

El Jefe Mister Freedom® ©2013

 

 

Mister Freedom® MFSC “El Jefe” Henley Shirt
‘Viva la Revolución’ Collection, Fall 2012

 

It is now time for the first installment of the final chapter of our “Viva la Revolución” MFSC Fall 2013 collection. To warm things up, let’s start at the top and introduce ‘El Jefe’…

Not a very common feature of Henley type shirts is the off-set front placket of some early models. This off-centered undershirt opening was an added protection against the cold and winds, leaving the neck fully covered when a top garment was worn.
See two vintage examples here, with the close-up of that hysterical woven label… and its roughly 33 1/3 % wool fiber content, give or take 😉

Vintage-Henleys

You sometimes can spot these types of shirts in old period movies. Also in Darius Kinsey style photographic works of woodsmen and other 1900’s~30’s delicate creatures. Below, the fellow on the left appears to be wearing an off-set Henley undershirt or union suit  (20’s? from the ‘Kinsey Photographer’ book ISBN 1-884822-22-3).

©Darius Kinsey

Undershirts made of brushed cotton fleece (pilou in French) were a popular winter layer in the Old World, while the New World had preferred the cotton/wool knit jerseys, or the later waffle ‘thermal’ still used today.

For ‘El Jefe’, we chose 100% cotton brushed fleece with heathered pattern, in two color options. The heather pattern is unlike the typical athletic type fleece, but rather unique with a very un-even random repeat (something programmed machines do not like.)
The construction as well was a bit of a challenge for the factory since we wanted a ‘poncho’ type cut, ie. a single panel folded in half with no top shoulder seam. We’re crazy like that.
This made the neck opening cutting stage more complicated and time consuming than the usual front/back two panel construction (because the neck hole is in the middle, you cannot start the electrical cutter from the edge of the fabric.)
The sleeves are intentionally cut to fall a bit above the cuffs, an acquired taste and feature often seen on military winter underwear clothing, so that the under layer remains concealed under the uniform. It also somewhat prevented a sleeve to get caught in machinery.

‘El Jefe’ is quite warm and can be worn either as a layer or a outer piece, tucked in or out according to your mood or religious beliefs.

Designed in California by Mister Freedom®, made in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane.

SPECS:

PATTERN: An original MSFC pattern, inspired by early European Henley type winter undershirts.

FABRIC: Mid weight 100% cotton fleece, soft brushed back, heather pattern with tightly woven cotton sateen button placket. Made in Japan. Two color ways
a)  Natural heather with off-white cotton sateen placket.
b) Grey heather with slate blue cotton sateen placket.

DETAILS
* Single panel fold, ‘poncho style’ body.
* Off center front button placket
* Natural horn cat eye button front closure.
* 3/4 type sleeves.
* Adjustable gusseted cuff button closure.
* Coverstitch construction, 100% cotton tonal thread.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING/WASHING:
I am a medium in ‘El Jefe’, with a comfortable fit.
We recommend regular gentle cycle washing and line dry. Minimal shrinkage with this cotton fleece, a medium will shrink to tag size. Like with mid weight ‘sweat shirt’ type textiles, fleece stretches slightly when worn.
Please refer to chart below for raw/washed & dried approximate measurements.

El Jeffe Sizing Chart Mister Freedom®

 

Available Raw/unwashed
Size S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $229.95

Visit our webstore or brick and mortar in Los Angeles to get yours.
Thank you for your support 😉

Mister Freedom® “TRIPPER Bag”, Type 2, Denim.

Mister Freedom® TRIPPER Bag Type 2 ©2013

Tripper-II-Promo

Mister Freedom® “TRIPPER Bag”, Denim, Type 2
Made in USA

Time for an updated version of our original denim ‘Tripper bag‘ we made in 2010, sold out for some time.
The pattern has not changed from the original Type 1 “Tripper”, but we have updated several elements such as the lining/webbing/trims…

I have used mine pretty much everyday for about 2 years, and I’m quite attached to it. We like to make things that look better with age and wear, so my beat-up Type 1 bag now looks better than when new and raw, which is better than the other way around 😉
You know by now where I stand on factory distressed denim/garments, so I’ll spare you the usual rant. The TRIPPER only comes cold rinse/hang dry. Because of the starch in the denim fibers, the bag will feels stiff when new, but will break and soften-up gradually with use.
Basically, we do the easy part of putting it together, you take it from there and make it look nice 😉

For reference, the photo below is my Type-1, shot in April 2013.

Tripper Bag Type 1 Mister Freedom® ©2010

Perso Type 1 Tripper, used for about 2 years

The limited edition “TRIPPER Bag, Type 2” is ‘Mister Freedom® built’, right here in our Los Angeles atelier. In other words, designed and hand made in the USA.

SPECS:

PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® pattern

FABRIC:
Shell: Assorted New Old Stock indigo selvedge raw denim, about 13 Oz.
Lining: NOS woven stripe ticking, 100% cotton.

DETAILS
Webbing: Sturdy 100% cotton straps, unbleached white with woven navy blue stripes.
Top closure: Recycled military cotton webbing. Inside metal “D” ring for keys.
* Approx. Size: Length 16” x Width 8” x Height  15”
Pocketing:
Two outside box-pleat pockets, vintage A2 type “United Carr” snap closure for flap.
Two inside side pockets
One inside large pocket 14.5” by 11” , snap closure (fits a Mac Notebook, or a phone book, because we all carry a phone book around)
* Indigo dyed HBT tape on inside seam.
* Visible denim selvedge on inside only.
* Tonal stitching
* White ID tape underneath outside pocket, for your perso custom marking/stenciling.
* Limited Edition.

(Rinsed and hung dry, One Size. Retail $449.95)
Available from www.misterfreedom.com

“Campus Cardigan” Mister Freedom® x Ohio Knitting Mills, Made in USA

 

Mister Freedom® x OKM Campus Cardigan ©2013

Mister Freedom® x OKM Campus Cardigan ©2013

 

 

 

The “CAMPUS CARDIGAN”, Sportsman Collection
Mister Freedom® x Ohio Knitting Mills

Walking past a table of folded vintage 1950’s cable knit shirts last year at ‘Inspiration’ in Long Beach, I noticed the “Ohio Knitting Mills, Since 1927″ sign on the booth.
I’ve always loved these shirts, having first seen one in the 80’s on the cover of the ACE Records “Hollywood Rock’n’Roll” LP, featuring that famous photo of two thirsty fellas from the Booze Fighters MC in 1947…

Hollywood RnR Ace Records

Turns out, “if it was knitted, wool or cotton, it was probably from OKM” said Steven Tatar, now running the show at Ohio Knitting Mills.

Well maybe they made this one too?

Sophia-Loren-1954

I’ll call Sophia later, back on topic…
We spoke regarding a potential future MF® x OKM project… and months later decided to put words into actions. And that’s how the journey of the “Campus Cardigan” started…
Wool, as i was about to learn, is similar to denim. In the sense that not all is created equal.
I also was about to get some tech terms thrown at me. A ‘Milanese stitch having to be attached to a jersey body‘?… Soprano material to me. But not to Mr Tatar.

As for inspiration for the project, I used a cream color vintage 50’s Letterman sweater, found a while back. I liked that it didn’t have the ‘Frankie Lymon & the Teeenager’ vibe, but rather a versatile cardigan for grown-ups vibe with interesting construction and unusual details that still looked ‘simple’ and not overly designed.
I also had attempted to indigo dye that vintage sweater, since when I get going, anything that doesn’t move is a potential candidate for getting thrown in the vat.

Mister Freedom® ©2013 Mister Freedom® ©2013

Not being sure what to expect with wool, I was happily surprised with the result.

Mister Freedom® ©2013

Well all that sounded like a good challenging puzzle for our new collaboration.
And a challenge it was, for all involved.

Mister Freedom® x OKM Campus Cardigan ©2013

From sourcing the right unbleached domestic wool, spinning the yarn to specs, milling, cutting, sewing, solving construction challenges, adjusting patterns and machines… to the (fun part for us) indigo dyeing…

We wanted the buttons to remain their original natural color (and not get dyed, as seen on the 1rst prototype shown in some of the photos), so, finally sewing on the corozo buttons and dual labels was quite satisfying.

The natural wool yarn OKM sourced has a beautiful ‘slubby’ texture and subtle color variation. This makes the natural color option as interesting as the second color option… Indigo.
Back in California, we put some long hours into relentlessly dipping the heavy pre-soaked/dye-ready sweaters in our indigo vat. One by one, some 3 or 4 dips depending on the resulting hue, stopping only when we thought the indigo color looked nice. The result of that ordeal is an assortment of various shades of blue that will change overtime, with wear and outside exposure.

INDIGO PHOTOS

Designed by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Ohio Knitting Mills. All made in USA by OKM. Indigo vat dyed in California.
Thanks Steve, Paula and the OKM team for their expertise and for making this project happen.

SPECS:

PATTERN: Inspired by a vintage 1950’s Letterman wool sweater, cardigan type. ‘Dropped shoulders’ pattern. Single wrap body panel (no side seams). Relaxed silhouette.

FABRIC: unbleached 100% wool knit jersey, American yarn spun and milled in the USA.
Two options:
a) Natural
b) Indigo

DETAILS:
* Wool Jersey body and sleeves, ribbed end knit.
* Single piece body wrap knit (no side seam).
* Milanese knit button placket.
* Wide wrist knit cuffs for roll-up.
* Fold over double layer pockets.
* Blind stitched bottom hem, folded end knit.
* Natural Corozo buttons, aka vegetable ivory or coconut wood.

SIZING/CARE:
I could go with a Small, but decided to wear a Medium, for layering options with heavier shirts/henleys this winter…
The natural option comes unwashed. The indigo has been rinsed. The loose jersey knit tends to stretch slightly after being rinsed and dried. The sweater will eventually adapt to your body with repeat wear, looking more natural than it did on the first day. This is normal.
Refer to the charts below for measurements.

Natural Campus Cardigan Size Chart

Size Chart NATURAL

 

Indigo Campus Cardigan

Size Chart INDIGO

When needed, the “Campus Cardigan” can be hand washed in cold water, with minimal mild detergent. NO machine wash, NO boiling. Machine spin dry, then lay the sweater on a towel, flipping it around until dry. NO electrical/gas dryer. The sweater is quite heavy when wet, so do not hang dry on a hanger, as this will result in unattractive stretching…
Your sweater can also be professionally dry cleaned.
Same care for the natural or indigo options, making sure you wash the indigo by itself, as bleeding will occur for some time.
DISCLAIMER: Due to the natural of indigo dyeing, some color rub-off will occur on light color shirting worn underneath the indigo cardigan, noticeably in the armpits .
This crocking should eventually stabilize, and also eventually wash off stained garments.
All this comes with Indigo Territory.
Available sizes:
Small, Medium, Large, X-Large

Retail:
a) Natural $399.95
b) Indigo $449.95
(ordering this option may take some time should we run out, as we are not sure when we will be able to do another dye batch.)

Available from www.misterfreedom.com
sales@misterfreedom.com will gladly answer any questions unanswered above 😉

Thank you always for your support.

New Web Shop for Mister Freedom®

Mister Freedom® Website ScreenShoot ©2013

Mister Freedom® Website ScreenShoot ©2013

 

Happy to introduce our new Web Shop at www.misterfreedom.com

Save for a few funny typos, that site is now fully active 24/7, while the brick & mortar is “11pm – 6pm”. Long days, eh? 😉
Cart, International shipping, secure Paypal processed payments and all that good stuff.
We also found some hidden boxes in storage with some Mister Freedom® originals “New Old Stock” from older MFSC® collections…

This previous blog form of Mister Freedom® related news will stay active and regularly updated with its ‘relevant or not’ usual content, but has now a new URL.
Warm thanks to Thomas, our web guru/designer, for all the hard work and for handling this mind boggling technical transfer and upgrade.

Thank you all for the support,

Christophe Loiron