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perso Skivvy, Sage Issue, worn & sun-faded
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Tom has a fishing story
The SKIVVY is back in color.
We opted for the original color of the vintage WW2 USMC Tshirt that was our pattern inspiration, a military Sage Green (somewhere between Pantone® 5545C and 5555C), along with a Navy Blue typical of the French “Marine Nationale” issue Tshirts.
I have experimented with my Sage Issue and left it in the sun for a few days, on a bust form, for a chemical-free fade. As can be seen on the side by side photos, our dye is pretty light sensitive, purposely not colorfast.
Treat your skivvy to your liking, sun or no sun, as production comes UN-faded.
AS with our white Skivvy, we were lucky to have access to 100% cotton tubular 18 single (18/1) jersey, loomed from USA grown cotton and manufactured in California. Tubular jersey has no side seams, like on most vintage Tshirts, which requires specific looms for each size, a bit challenging for small productions.
Unlike most modern Tshirts, the MF® SKIVVY has an ‘old school’ 40′s-50′s silhouette, inspired by a combination of old photos and vintage shirts, often a bit ill-fitting by today’s standards. The 1/4 sleeves are a bit shorter and the body slightly ‘boxier’ than your average contemporary Tshirt, giving the MF® Skivvy that ‘hand-me-down’ intentional feel. The thin neck band is also a nod to early vintage Tshirts.
As always, our shirt is not a replica, just an humble interpretation of a classic piece.
Designed by Mister Freedom® and MADE in CALIFORNIA, USA.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by 1940′s-50′s cotton Tshirts
FABRIC: 100% cotton 18/1 tubular jersey, cotton grown and knitted in the USA. Carded open end yarn.
COLOR:
a) Sage Green
b) Navy Blue
CONSTRUCTION: Combination of flatlock and cover stitch, inspired by 1940′s USMC Government issued ‘skivvies’. Tubular body, no side seams.
STITCHING: Tonal 100% cotton thread.
LABELING: Original MF® woven rayon label on neck band, with stamped sizing tab.
SIZING/WASHING: Because of the piece dyeing process, the skivvies have been washed/dryed and are therefore pre-shrunk.
Low-maintenance as a Tshirt should be, just throw in the washer/dryer, cold or hot water, no bleach. The cotton jersey will stretch out with wear and ‘mold’ to your body.
According to your built and silhouette preference you can get your normal size or size down for a slimmer/shorter fit (as often seen in vintage photos.)
I wear Medium (38) on most MFSC garments, but sized down to Small for the MF® Skivvy, just personal preference. I like to slightly ‘pull’ on it to distort and give torque to the tubular jersey.
Refer to sizing chart below for washed/machine dried approximate measurements (measured flat, without pulling/stretching):
Available Pre-Shrunk
SIZES xS, S, M, L, xL, xxL
Retail (Sage Green or Navy Blue) $69.95
Call 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours. We ship internationally to select Countries. As always, thank you sincerely for your support.
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Smoking is NOT a smart thing to do, but there’s hope for all. I’ve quit since then.
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MFxBR “PENSACOLA Seaplane Jacket, Intermediate”
Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s 20th Anniversary Jacket
Fall 2013
We were honored to be involved with our friends at BUZZ RICKSON’S celebration of their 20th Anniversary this year.
To commemorate their dedication and passion at making outstanding mil-specs replica garments for two decades as a branch of Toyo Enterprises, Mr. Kameya (Buzz Rickson’s Skipper) give us carte blanche for a special limited edition piece, granting access to the entire BR catalog of trims/fabrics and expert manufacturing. Oh boy…
MF® came up with a simplified scenario to make this jacket ‘plausible’, aiming for solid and timeless, as the pieces that usually inspire us. After research and some hours on the drawing table, the MFxBR “Pensacola Seaplane Jacket” started shaping up:
The “Naval Air Station Pensacola” in Florida (NAS Pensacola) has been the cradle of Naval Aviation since WW1, where all involved personnel got to train (aviators, Navy flyers, Marines, ground crew, Officers, Seabees…). Read its rich history here.
Well, we had our name… now we just needed a jacket.
For the design, we imagined that a special test/prototype jacket had been developed by the Naval Air Factory (NAF), to be worn on Base and for training only. It combined vintage elements of Navy and Air Force issued jackets, and was adopted by crews of specific Joint Operations (involving Seaplanes, flyers and sea crews…)
We came up with a type of early Military flight jacket that could have existed. We blended decades of pre WW2 flight apparel History, freely borrowing from iconic mil-specs jackets and willingly mixing eras. Our inspiration came from:
* late 1920’s type A-1 leather jackets
* Late 1930’s “Jacket, flying, Intermediate, Jungle cloth” (OD jungle cloth/zipper/A-1 style knit collar)
* M-422 leather Jacket that replaced the jungle cloth in 1938 ( later to morph into Type G-1 jackets)…
* Our speculative imagination, vintage archives, NOS trims vault, and the usual added grain of salt.
Why navy and white? Well we figured these were not unpopular colors in the USN and USAAF, and this being an amphibious Op type garment it made sense. The corduroy lining is a nod to the hand-warmer pockets of early Peacoats, same specs and shade. The single layer waist band wool knit is that of Type M-422 Jackets, cuffs those of A-2 Jackets, but in natural color.
To spice it up we dug out an old stock of military ‘ring’ removable buttons. We were lucky to get our hands on some rare NOS composite white buttons, with an engraved anchor, in their original Gov’t issued packaging.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and expertly crafted in Japan by Buzz Rickson’s of Toyo Enterprises in a one-time limited edition.
In the US and EU, the MFxBR Pensacola Jacket is only available from Mister Freedom®.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFxBR pattern, inspired by vintage American mil-specs flight apparel.
FABRIC:
Body: 14 oz. all cotton “jungle cloth”, originally developed for the US Navy for its sturdiness/softness/strength/protection qualities while at sea under harsh conditions. Famous for its application in the USN Type N-1 deck jackets. Milled in Japan to exact period mil-specs.
Lining: Cotton mid wade corduroy.
DETAILS:
* Slim silhouette, one piece back.
* Mil-specs wool knit cuffs, waist band and collar band.
* Cotton corduroy full lining.
* Navy CPO shirt type anchor buttons collar fastening.
* A-1 type front flap patch pockets, with corduroy lining.
* Metal snap waist band closure.
* Detachable white composite anchor ring buttons for front closure, vintage military New Old Stock.
* Underarm venting metal eyelets.
* Original Mister Freedom® x Buzz Rickson’s double labeling and ‘contract’ tag, a nod to early USAAF ‘modified’ flying gear.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
WASH/SIZING:
The ‘Pensacola’ runs true to size. I am usual a medium/38 in MFSC coats and jackets, and wear a size 38 in this jacket.
We recommend professional eco-friendly dry cleaning when needed. Remove the ring buttons before cleaning (they unhook from the metal ring of the button by rotating the fastener from the under side). Store them and don’t lose them!
The jacket is also hand washable, in cold water, if really needed. Hang dry only.
The 100% cotton jungle cloth is sanforized and some minimal shrinkage and ‘torquing’ will occur if washed.
Please refer to sizing chart below for raw/rinsed measurements (‘rinsed’ = soaked in cold water for 30mn, spin dry and hang dry). Original rinsing is optional and for reference only.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 36 (small), 38 (medium), 40 (large), 42 (Xlarge), 44 (XXlarge)
Retail $699.95
Please call 323-653-2014 or Email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. Available from Mister Freedom® HQ in Los Angeles, and from our online store.
Thank you all 😉
(Note: The painted jacket in the photo was just a custom prototype we did for BUZZ RICKSON’S 20th Anniversary party. Production comes WITHOUT any graphics, of course)
As previously introduced for Spring 2013, “The Sportsman” concept is about the feeling of walking into an old pre-70’s Army/Navy surplus store, with its stacks of Americana bits and pieces, piles of New Old Stock ‘unfashionable’ clothes…
Production should be hitting Mister Freedom® store sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
This Fall 2013 line-up is the second volume of the “Sportsman” and introduces the following items, all made in the USA.
* “CALIFORNIAN” Blue Jeans Lot.64:
13.75 Oz. right hand twill 3×1 selvedge denim
* “RANCH BLOUSE” Lot.64:
13.75 Oz. right hand twill 3×1 selvedge denim
* “CAMP ” Flannel Snap Shirt:
Two color ways of an original printed flannel fabric
a) Red
b) Black
* “CAMPUS CARDIGAN”
An original collaboration with famed Ohio Knitting Mills (Founded in 1927. Cleveland, Ohio)
Two color options
a) Natural wool yarn
b) Indigo dyed wool yarn
* “APPALOOSA” Denim Snap Shirt:
10 Oz. selvedge 2×1 denim
* Last but not least, an endeavor that made us feel that Shackelton had it easy, the “CAMPUS JACKET”:
Natural cowhide
Thank you for tuning in.
Happy Summer 😉
Introducing the second chapter of our collaboration collection with Sugar Cane Co “Viva la Revolución”. This Fall/Winter volume follows the previously Spring/Summer story you can read about here.
As always, the inspiration for this collection is quite eclectic, near and far from the Rio Grande in the first thirty years of the 20th Century. I will turn to full rambling mode for each item as production hits our HQ, sometime in Sept/Oct 2013.
Designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
The Fall 2013 line up will include:
* “EL AMERICANO” Jacket:
Three different fabrics
a) Brown duck selvedge canvas
b) Indigo dyed wide wale Corduroy
c) Grey ‘stripe’ heavy canvas
* “EL AMERICANO” Trousers:
Three different fabric a) b) c)
* “EL AMERICANO” Waistcoat:
Three different fabric a) b) c)
* “DROVER BLOUSE”:
A special edition in indigo dyed Melton wool.
* “RANCHERO” Shirt:
Two different fabrics
a) Indigo/Red woven plaid, cotton-linen selvedge
b) Indigo covert, selvedge
* “EL JEFFE” Henley (no, it’s not a sweater):
Two different fabrics
a) Natural heather brushed cotton fleece.
b) Gray heather brushed cotton fleece.
Muchas Gracias Friends 😉
BUILDING UP SELF-CONFIDENCE IN PEOPLE
When not particularly blessed with self confidence in young adult life, one needs to rely on a few good souls to build it back.
The few who will early on understand your hesitating and approximate work, encourage and support you, refrain from You-know-what-you-should-do you and rather let you be yourself, are the reason why you’ll keep going and do your thing.
They will make you thrive to do better, acknowledge your efforts, validate the long hours, justify and respect your choice of an often less travelled road.
An honest pat on the back on that road, at the right time, goes a long, long way.
The fine bunch below, from close friends to business acquaintances, is a non-exhaustive list.
But this appreciative small potato wanted to express it’s gratitude, late and in no particular order, to a few who come to mind today.
To early self-confidence builders who inspire one to keep doing it his way, I dedicate this post.
Kenny Thomas
 
In my early days of rag collecting solo, Kenny was a Designer at Ralph Lauren… In the mid 90’s, he purchased some Japanese indigo boro from my garage, rags that I had randomly picked up in Japan. These 100 year old patched-up textiles were used as back-drops for RL collections rigs at the time… Boro fabric has been pretty much featured on every single fashion blog and magazine by now.
Kenny now is the Creative Director behind Grayers Menswear collections, a skilled photographer, proud Father of Tate and the lesser half of photographer Leeta Harding.
AND my irrelevant comedy routine partner on Instagram 😉
Todd Snyder
As head of design at J.Crew in the mid 90’s, Todd and his design team (Frank Muytens was there) regularly visited my non-glamorous warehouse in Sun Valley, CA., to pick up inspirational pieces from the ol’ pile of rags. Graphics, fleece, plaids etc…
Todd has since then launched his successful Todd Snyder label. Frank is now head of Men’s Design at J.Crew.
Toyo Enterprises
When randomly approached by Tom Tanaka and team at the Mister Freedom® store back in 2006, I was asked to design a pair of jeans, carte blanche… Little did they know that I had NO idea where to start. Made a pair from scratch, a few days before due date. The “Utility Trousers, MFSC 7161” were born and were the foundation of our on-going MFSC collaborations that keep me clothed every day. Solid folks, all of them.
Kiya Babzani
 
Kiya and his imported Japanese denim mecca Self Edge was the first US retailer to pick up the Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane line for his store in San Francisco, sometime in 2008.
He now has expanded with several boutiques across America, having earned much respect within the Denimhead World through hard work and expertise.
Furthermore, I am indebted to all independent boutiques and their hard working owners & staff currently carrying Mister Freedom®.
Katsu & Leo Yoshida
 
The design legend and visionary guru behind Japanese ‘Yoshida Kanban’ (‘Porter Bags’) stumbled across an early version of Mister Freedom® store in Los Angeles (Martel Avenue location) sometime in 2004. He quietly picked up vintage items no one was looking for yet, giving me confidence that the early AM hunting wake-up calls were worth it…
Along with his son Leo Yoshida, Katsu launched his own boutique offering his brands in Ginza, Porter Classics. His luggage label ‘Kichizo’ is proudly carrying on the rich Family heritage of bag making.
Katsu and Leo’s new “Quartier Général” restaurant in Ginza, opening sometime in 2013, will surely become my new HQ when in Tokyo…
Cheers Mousquetaires 😉
Sir Paul Smith
A group of dapper folks set foot into Mister Freedom® store, sometime in 2007… I ended up discussing old rags with a certain Gentleman after he was done shopping.
Quickly realizing that he was more than well versed in vintage textiles and styles, I said : “You must be in design, or something…?”
He replied, humbly: “Yes, a little bit… Kind of keeps me off the streets that.”
We shook hand, he said his name was Paul. Paul Smith.
Subsequently, Paul Smith® was the first European retailer to pick up a season of MFSC clothes (Naval Clothing Tailor, 2008) for one of their boutique in London, as a kind acknowledgment of what I was trying to do with my own thread inclination…
Steve Garbarino
Mr. Garbarino, then Chief Editor of “BlackBook Magazine”, sent photographer Sye Williams to the store in 2006. He then ran the first paper media article on Mister Freedom® to appear in a US Publication.
I choose to not use PR and keep the advertising budget close to zero, and considering no one had heard of the brand, that was a very nice plug. I talked about wanting to see more three-piece suits in the streets in that article, at a time when streets were plagued by Ed Hardy rhinestones…
Steve has a busy career and is now a contributing editor for ‘The Wall Street Journal’.
Michael Williams
The trend forecaster globe trotter and his website needs no introduction. After a visit, Michael ran a bit about Mister Freedom® on his popular “A Continuous Lean” website back in 2008. The first major ‘blog’ to highlight what was going on at 7161 Beverly Boulevard.
Doug Bihlmaier and Bob Melet
 
As the ‘A’ Team behind all the vintage buying for Ralph Lauren in the 1990’s, these two then partners-in-crime have been responsible for giving me the energy to carry on digging deeper and deeper for hidden treasures…
Doug, the Legend, is still handling all vintage buys at Ralph Lauren. (BL, you’ll appreciate I blurred your face)
Bob owns a design inspirational business of International fame based in New York called “Melet Mercantile” (84 Wooster St., #205, NY, NY 10012, by appointments only.)
Tina Wakino
 
From bearing with my 7 days/week schedule and my moods, to sanding the floors of the freshly rebuild store mezzanine in 2006… and everything in between and after, Tina has seen it all happen. She can testify of the blood sweat and tears as an insider and a compañera. She has also inspired me to try to become a better person… the hardest task of them all.
For the past 15 years, Tina has been independently operating her own successful and respected business, her boutique “Bazar” (1108c Abbot Kinney in Venice, CA. 90291.)
Merci Cosette 😉
Additionally, warm thank you to all past and present supporters of Mister Freedom®.
We wouldn’t be here today if you hadn’t been there yesterday.
Christophe Loiron,
Laborer at Mister Freedom®
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