gilet ville « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® x SugarCane MFSC “Apaches” Fall 2011 (Part 1): Gilet Métisse

Our first MFSC Apaches Fall delivery is in!

If you’ve missed the Spring pitch, here it is again (if you know it by heart, skip the skit and scroll down for the low down on the SPECS)

The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.

They were called Les Apaches…

Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.

For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.

In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.

Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…

MFSC Fall 2011, APACHES Collection: Gilet de Ville métisse

SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This fabric is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC lightweight black moleskine, all cotton, 5 oz.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
DETAILS:
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
* Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: The gilet comes RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.
Some not-so-serious fit pix here

Gilet Métisse Sizing Chart

Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.

Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane “Les Apaches” (Part. 3): Gilet de Ville

MFSC Spring 2011 “Les Apaches“: Gilet de Ville (city waistcoat)

Introducing the third installment of our MFSC spring Apaches collection, now available at the Mister Freedom® store in LA and very select retailers around the world.
Inspired by turn of the century to 1930’s French tailor-made gent garb, our Gilets de Ville come in three different fabric options. Woven in Japan exclusively for MFSC, the fabrics were developed from vintage swatches and samples of 100 year old textiles from our archives. They are not replicas, as we changed some yarn colour combinations, tones and texture, giving them our trademark twist. The fabrics are 100% cotton, making them drape and feel the way we wanted. They were a real endeavour to mill and had some people pulling their hair in the process…
You can go Dandy or pair them with your favorite dungarees, mismatch fabrics… according to the mood and the order of the day. (See previous post for some fit pics.)

SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: Milled in Japan, in small limited batches.
* GREY COVERT STRIPE: 10 Oz., all cotton, double cloth, 6 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* INDIGO STRIPE BLUE: 8 Oz., all cotton, 7 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* COVERT STRIPE BROWN: 8 Oz., all cotton, 5 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC Métisse 50% cotton/50% Linen plain weave, indigo dyed and black pigment coated.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
DETAILS:
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
* Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.

Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.

Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95

Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.

Watch Johnny Depp making a Mister Freedom® x Sugar Cane Gilet de Ville (indigo stripe blue version) look good here 😉