Sportsman Shirt, indigo twill métis
“The Sportsman” Catalog, Fall 2014
A new addition to our “Sportsman” line-up this Fall 2014 is an indigo twill métis shirt.
Using our classic Sportsman shirt pattern, we have once again put an old familiar face to work: our original indigo métis fabric, originally introduced sometime in 2011 with the Veste Ouvrier of “Les Apaches” collection.
Some of you might be familiar with other good use we have made of that fabric, such as the Sportsman Chinos, Pantalon Ouvrier, the Paletot Apache, the Chemise Hirondelle, and the Gilet de Ville de Depp de Hollywood…
 Photo courtesy of whoever took it When applied to textiles, the French word métis refers to a blend of cotton and linen fibers. Métis fabrics were used extensively by French country folks in the better part of the XXth Century, for both bedding and clothing. If hemp was never mixed with linen, cotton became its best companion due to the properties of the resulting ‘métissage’. In the old days, cotton/linen textiles were tough, affordable, washed easily… until poly fibers hit the fan.
On a side note, it has not escaped you that I have kept on spelling it wrong since launching our indigo twill in 2011. Indeed, it is métis, and not métisse. Mea culpa, I can now feel awsome again.
The fabric of our Sportsman shirt blends 70% cotton with 30% linen. Woven in a twill pattern, both warp and weft yarns are indigo dyed.
For those into naturally faded specimen of indigo-dyed clothing, here are some instances of what happens to our indigo métis over time.
We don’t get tired of our friend Tyler’s veste ouvrier, quite an epic example of what happens to workwear actually worked-in…
Our friend Mikko, from “Pancho and Lefty” in Sweden, has a neighbor who seems to enjoy wearing his Sportsman Chinos indigo métis quite regularly… These were purchased unwashed, and were originally the exact same color as our métis shirt…
Thank you for sharing, Gentlemen.
The Sportsman Shirt indigo twill métis is designed and manufactured in California, USA, by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Fabric loomed in Japan.
PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by our vintage influences.
FABRIC:
Indigo Métis Twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early French indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light.
DETAILS:
* Relaxed silhouette and fit.
* Original chest inverted box-pleat double pockets.
* Slim chin strap.
* Full button front.
* Original painted embossed metal buttons, combination solid and MFSC branding.
* White cotton popeline button facing strip.
* Double front & back expansion pleats on shoulder yoke.
* One piece cuff gusset.
* 100% cotton thread, high stitch count.
* Flat felled seams, with inside green chain-stitch MF® signature.
* Side gussets.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label.
* Made in California, USA.
SIZING/WASHING:
This shirt comes raw/unwashed.
We recommend an original 30mn cold soak, spin dry, line dry. The shirt can be shaped by putting it on for a few minutes while still damp, then hung back to fully dry. This process with result in minimal shrinkage and almost no indigo color loss. The shirt might still feel a bit loose because it has not fully shrunk but will settle to the proper fit with subsequent normal wear/wash cycles.
We prefer this slower method over the hot water/heat dryer some use to make clothes fit.
I am a Medium in mfsc shirts and wear a Medium in the Sportsman métis.
Color croaking is to be expected and will temporarily ‘stain’ light color garments such as white undershirts. Indigo rub-off washes off eventually, but is less than attractive when applied to arm pits. This is unfortunately the nature of the beast.
This indigo-dyed métis fabric is also very light sensitive. Protect garment from the sun if stored folded to avoid uneven fading.
When laundry is due, hand-wash inside out with mild detergent and line dry.
Please refer to chart for cold soak/line dry measurements. Keep in mind that our cold soak method results in minimal shrinkage.
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES:
14½ (Small)
15½ (Medium)
16½ (Large)
17½ (X-Large)
18½ (XX-Large)
RETAIL $329.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
 Working on brand image. Glamour is key. 
 Sportsman Chinos, 2013 issue
The SPORTSMAN CHINOS
Beach Chino twill and Indigo Métisse Twill
Sportsman Collection Spring 2014
Introduced during Spring 2013 and part of the Sportsman catalog, the Sportsman chinos are Mister Freedom® take on a beloved American classic, made in USA for the occasion.
The buckle back and relaxed fit gives them somewhat of a 1950’s vibe, in a traditional work-meets-casual trouser style.
This simple design, spiced up with some MF® signature details, is now being released in two new fabrics, both loomed in Japan.
This season’s selvedge chino twill version is similar to the 2013 release, but in a lighter ‘sand’ khaki color. We called it “Beach”, because “Sleepy Bora Bora lagoon at dawn” was too long and probably taken. Additionally, it makes us sound like a lifestyle brand, I like that.
Below are photos of my Chinos (2013 release), after some normal wear/wash process.
The indigo twill version brings us back to our “Les Apaches” days with the cotton/linen métisse fabric introduced with the veste ouvrier, paletot, chemise hirondelle, and gilet.
After normal wash & wear, the patina on this fabric is pretty amazing. There are some beautiful worn examples out there, as I’ve been able to witness on several occasions.
It appears friend and early-days supporter Tyler Madden from Self Edge Portland submitted his veste ouvrier to some rough work schedule. Well done Sir.
Tyler’s jacket’ patina did not come out of a Turkish or Bangladeshi washhouse.
 Tyler’s “veste ouvrier” from 2011 Note on industrial washing:
Chip Bergh, Levi’s CEO since 2011, announced recently that he had not washed his jeans for a year.
Cool.
Besides the horror this created in the common First-World household and the points gained with the Denimhead community, I thought his position quite interesting. Mr. Bergh wants to save the planet one laundry load at a time. Good man, thanks Chip. Indeed, it is clear that we, consumers, and our darn hyper-active washing machines, are challenging the Blue Planet’s water supply.
Quite amusing of a public statement for a company whose net income ($229 million in 2013) has been mostly generated by selling and promoting stonewashed jeans.
So, yes. You go Water<Less™ in Turkey, and I won’t forget to do my part at home, ie. “pick one day of the week to go shower-less“.
Problem solved.
Pheew.
 If it’s good enough for the President… After this diversion, dare I mention that because our indigo métisse is a frayed-edge type fabric, the side seam is of the flat-felled chainstitched construction type, while the chino twill side seam display the twill selvedge.
The Sportsman Chinos are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co., from fabric loomed in Japan.
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC, inspired by vintage cotton twill work pants.
FABRIC Options:
a) Beach Chino Twill: Raw 100% cotton selvedge ‘Chino’ twill, ‘sand’ color, milled in Japan on shuttle looms.
b) Indigo Métisse Twill: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early French indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
DETAILS:
* Relaxed 1950’s type silhouette and fit.
* Natural corozo wood fly and waist buttons.
* Selvedge leg side seams for the chino twill, flat-felled seam for the indigo twill version.
* Welt back pockets.
* Original combo belt loops, wide & narrow.
* The ever attractive-sounding ‘crotch gusset’.
* Adjustable back cinch strap, with vintage NOS metal slide buckles.
* New Old Stock blue/white stripe 100% cotton twill pocket bags.
* Natural 100% cotton sailcloth waist band and fly facing.
* Watch pocket.
* 100% cotton thread construction, flat felled seams, with inside green chainstich signature.
* Original “The SPORTSMAN” woven rayon label on back waistback, concealed when wearing a belt.
* ‘Open’ overlocked leg bottom, to suit your cuffing preferences.
* Made in USA.
SIZING/WASHING:
The ‘Sportsman Chinos’ are sold RAW (unwashed) and will shrink to tagged size. Both fabric will shrink to approximately the same measurements. The waist sizing is pretty ‘generous’, but still get a 32 if that is your usual size.
The bottom are left open to your cuffing preference. I opted for a 1½ inch fold, regular single needle machine stitch.
a) Chino Twill: This fabric is pretty low maintenance. Original cold soak and line dry. Further washing when needed, on gentle cycle, warm/cold water, line dry. The original sheen of the fabric will dull out with wear and wash.
b) Indigo métisse Twill: We recommend an original cold soak, spin dry, line dry. Color croaking is to be expected. This indigo option is very sun sensitive. When dirty and according to your activities, hand-wash inside out with mild detergent and line dry.
As common sense dictates, riding horses for a living or clerking at the DMV will affect time between laundries.
Refer to charts below for raw/rinsed/line dried measurements:
 
Available RAW/unwashed.
SIZES: 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
RETAIL
a) Beach Chino Twill: $289.95
b) Indigo Métisse Twill: $329.95
Available on www.misterfreedom.com
Email [email protected] or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
By the way, nothing personal Chip, I am sure you are sincere in longing for a cleaner Planet. Maybe some Tide™ would help.
Ooh, if you see Bart, kindly mention his tab. No, not the red one, he’ll know. Thanks.
Yours Truly,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
Our first MFSC Apaches Fall delivery is in!
If you’ve missed the Spring pitch, here it is again (if you know it by heart, skip the skit and scroll down for the low down on the SPECS)
The Paris of the Belle Époque (1900s) saw the emergence of a certain type of street outcasts. They lived in secret dens in the seedy and dimmed outskirts of the City of Lights, abhorred honest labor, hunted the Faubourgs and Quartier de Halles, and danced in local Guinguettes and dives, decked out in flamboyant outfits.
They were called Les Apaches…
Issued from the French lower working class, with a lack of education and absence of Future, they regrouped in loosely organized neighborhood gangs. Abiding by their own hoodlum code of honor, they woke up late, spoke the obscure slang Jare, and wore specific flashy clothes. Their dandy accoutrement combined with intimidating attitudes imposed both respect and fear from the Parisians and their police.
For 30 years, Paris’ Apaches gangs marked their territories by terrorizing honest bourgeois citizens, committing petty larceny, pimping and street fighting their lives away. For those who had ducked the knife and the bullet that bared their name or the ravage of the “Grande Guerre” (WW1), it was the inevitable outcome of Biribi or the Bagne de Cayenne.
In the 1920’s one a many high society dame was spotted mingling with charismatic Apache groups in local Java dance halls, letting her hair down in a famous Dance Apache, immortalized later by Hollywood (“Charlie Chan in Paris”, 1935) and several Broadway Shows. The French movie Casque d’Or (1953) relates a true story of a famous Apache event that took place in 1905.
Bourgeois newspapers of the period and universal fascination with the underworld turned the reign of the Apaches into a mix of myth and imagery that will forever mark the Paris of the 1900s to 1930s…
MFSC Fall 2011, APACHES Collection: Gilet de Ville métisse
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting.
FABRIC: INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light… Milled in Japan in limited batch.
This fabric is the same fabric the veste ouvrier is made of, so it will fade to this with wear.
LINING: Fully lined with 100% cotton stripe MFSC ticking.
BACK PANEL: Original MFSC lightweight black moleskine, all cotton, 5 oz.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button front.
DETAILS:
* Limited Edition.
* Four front slash pockets
* Two inside concealed chest flap pockets.
* Traditional darted back piece, with cinch back belt. Original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: Will scratch car seats, sofas etc…) The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs (a “safer” metal buckle, used for the Japanese production, will be found in one of the pockets.)
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: The gilet comes RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF®.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
92 (small) Chest about 18 1/2” across, after rinse/dry.
97 (medium) Chest about 20” across, after rinse/dry.
102 (large) Chest about 21” across, after rinse/dry.
107 (X-Large) Chest about 22” across, after rinse/dry.
Some not-so-serious fit pix here
 Gilet Métisse Sizing Chart Designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL
Retail $439.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email [email protected] or [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
We thank you again for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like.
MFSC Spring 2011 “Les Apaches“: Pantalon Ouvrier (workman’s trousers)
We are very happy to have the fourth installment of our MFSC spring Apaches collection finaly in ze house!
Inspired but late 1800’s – 1900’s French military bourgerons trousers (often made of HBT natural colour linen) and early French workers garb, our Pantalon Ouvrier falls into the “denim” part of the collection. The trousers are available in two fabric options: Métisse Indigo dyed twill and Indigo Stripe ticking, both inspired by early French workwear textiles, then the Old World equivalent to American denim.
The silhouette is reminiscent of turn of the century imagery, a slimmer type fit, narrower legs with a higher rise.
You can make them look ‘dressy’ or ouvrier, according to what you pair them with…
SPECS:
PATTERN: An all original MFSC pattern and fit, inspired by early french work pants and military issued chore trousers.
FABRIC: Two options (fabrics loomed in Japan exclusively for MFSC):
A) INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
B) INDIGO Rayure (ticking): 8 oz. indigo/white warp and black weft striped twill, herringbone weave, white selvedge, un-sanforized (respectfully lifted from a late 1800′s swatch of french textile). Fades…
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozonatural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900′s to 1940′s). “MFSC déposé” engraved buttons combination.
SUSPENDERS: The trousers come with matching fabric removable suspenders, inspired by overalls straps.
HARDWARE: NOS original French hook secure waist closure. Buckle back with our NOS sharp prong buckle (guaranteed to blahhh).
BACK GUSSET: Contrast indigo dyed popeline.
POCKETING: Two front slash pockets, one watch pocket, two back slash pockets secured by button ‘dart flap’.
Pocket lining is with contrast fabric (métisse for the ticking body, and ticking with the métisse body… try that for the King’s Speech part.)
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
WASHING: Both fabric option come RAW/unwashed, and will shrink lightly with washing/drying. Your trousers will fade overtime, according to wear. Remember that you do not get good ‘wear marks’ from washing but from wearing.
I recommend an initial quick cold soak, without agitation, to initiate original shrinkage and hang dry.
Then, when needed, cold delicate wash, minimal eco-friendly detergent and hang dry.
DO NOT get a size up and BOIL them when you realize they are not skinny jeans.
MF® does not make skinny jeans…
SIZING & SHRINKAGE: The trousers are labeled and marked in French.
We measured the trousers with the back gusset fully open. A fully close gusset (with maximun back strap cinching) reduces the waist by about 1 and half inch all around.
Click on chart below to see RAW and RINSED measurements (missing measurements will be updated asap.)
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Indigo Métisse (solid): Retail $599.95
Indigo Rayure Ticking (stripe): Retail $549.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email [email protected] or [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Thank you for your support.
NOTE:
The métisse and ticking pantalons ouvrier featured in the above photos have been WORN on/off for about 2 months, washed cold about 5 times, minimal soap, hang dry. NFS. Production trousers are NOT distressed and are available UNWASHED only.
 
 
 
MISTER FREEDOM® x SUGAR CANE Spring 2011 Collection “Les Apaches”: VESTE OUVRIER
Voila l’été…et voila les Apaches!
I would like to thank everyone involved in making this collection a reality, all the believers, supporters, risk takers and hard workers, especially our friends at Sugar Cane Co for their unconditional support with this new MFSC collaboration.
MFSC Veste Ouvrier (workman’s jacket):
Inspired by early french work wear gear, the first installment of the MFSC Apache collection is a our version of a french worker’s coat. We combined elements of several 1900’s to 1940’s pieces to make our veste ouvrier. We kinda like that one…
SPECS:
PATTERN: An original MFSC pattern and fit, inspired by early french bleu de chauffe.
FABRIC: Two options (fabrics loomed in Japan exclusively for MFSC):
A) INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
B) INDIGO Rayure: 8 oz. indigo/white warp and black weft striped twill, herringbone weave, white selvedge, un-sanforized (respectfully lifted from a late 1800’s swatch of french textile). Fades…
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s). Five button-front.
DETAILS:
* Original slanted button holes, to keep straight vertical closure.
* Inside white cotton twill pocket backing, to reinforce pocket top edges.
* Concealed chest pocket, with flap covering the MFSC woven label (NO visible branding/logo, so you don’t feel like a billboard…).
* Cinch back belt, with original french NOS metal sharp-prong buckle (DISCLAIMER: guaranteed to mess up your car seat, but we figured they have been around on battle fileds and in factories since the 1840’s, so we’re taking the risk in 2011…). The buckle is removable and you can switch to one that fits your needs.
* Concealed chin strap.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle french seams, no overlock nor chainstitch. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: Both fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink lightly with cold wash/hang dry.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized/labelled in french! (all the way, baby…).
92 (small), 97 (medium), 102 (large), 107(Xlarge), 112(XXlarge)
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork will be featured on the Apache Collection box tops. Merci M’sieur Pat’…☺
LIMITED EDITION: For US and EU, a total of 130 jackets were made
A) 70 pieces of INDIGO Métisse veste Ouvrier
B) 60 pieces of INDIGO Rayure veste Ouvrier
Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes S, M, L, XL, XXL
Indigo Métisse (solid): Retail $579.95
Indigo Rayure (stripe): Retail $549.95
NOTE:
The Indigo métisse veste ouvrier featured in the above photos has been worn ‘in the field’ on/off for about 2 months, washed cold about 5 times, minimal soap, hang dry. NFS. Production jackets are NOT distressed and are available UNWASHED only.
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or mail [email protected] or [email protected] to get yours while they last. We ship internationally.
|
