Mister Freedom® SKIVVY T-Shirt, all cotton tubular knit, new “DESERT SAND” color, Made in USA.

Mister Freedom® SKIVVY T-Shirt, all cotton tubular knit, new “Desert Sand” color!
Made in USA

We are introducing a new fantastic color for our very popular Skivvy T-Shirt!
Call it beige, natural white, cream, écru, … , we named it “Desert Sand” ’cause we’re fancy like that.

The color is similar to that of unbleached cotton yarn, and was inspired by the specific shade of an old vintage henley undershirt from our archives.

The “Desert Sand” now joins our growing Skivvy family of classic T-Shirts introduced in 2013: white, black, navy blue, jungle green, sage green, brown 436, along with an heather grey edition.
Same US Military-inspired “Quarter Sleeve Undershirt” cut, same old school flatlock seam construction, same vintage silhouette, and same all-American provenance.

Please refer to the original MF® blog posts for specificities of both Skivvy and Stanley T-shirts, specs/sizing/fit/care instructions. Find the skinny on Skivvy vs. Stanley here. It’s like a Coke® vs. Pepsi® decision, but better for you.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

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Mister Freedom® CAMPUS “STUD” Jacket, Snap Fastener Edition, Veg-Tan Cowhide Leather, 2024. Made in USA.

 

“Nice, very nice. Say pops, can we go home now?” The Joe Greene, Mister Freedom® ©2024

Mister Freedom® CAMPUS “STUD” Jacket, Snap Fastener Edition, Veg-Tan Cowhide Leather.
Natural / Black Tea-core / “Bison” Tea-core.
Made in USA.

The following crackling announcement coming out of your old tube radio cabinet told no lies:

If you have a penchant for the classics, the latest styles from Mister Freedom® will take your closet from Dullsville to Woahsville! The snappy dresser insists on the Mister Freedom® CAMPUS STUD!…

Case in point, our latest drop, a subtle twist on the timeless 1930s-inspired MF® Campus Jacket refitted with easy-to-button vintage-style snap fasteners!
Trim wise, these original MF® branded brass snaps were introduced in 2020 with the western-wear style Maverick Jacket. They have since also been featured on the Roadeo Jacket, Sonny Puffer Vest, and Bronco Champ Type II. That’s how much we dig them.

From the early days — with patent origins in Germany dating back to the late 1800s — metal snap closures on garments and gear have been promoted as more practical, more reliable, and less maintenance than their sewn-on button predecessors. From utilitarian clothing providers to military outfitters to sportswear fashion brands, everyone took notice, and snaps are today ubiquitous.
These days, most First World Homo Sapiens know their way around Tik-Tok and Amazon more than they do around a needle and thread, so snap fasteners will definitely be a bonus. Although knowing how to sew a button back on is never a bad skill to have.

Some behind-the-scene manufacturing tidbits…
The idea about the front closure refit of our Campus Jacket came from how ridiculously fabulous (and vintage legit!) those brass snaps already looked on the veg-tan leather iterations of our Ranch Blouse. But the decision was mostly to address a production-related issue with the old Reece 101 keyhole machine needed to produce those classic buttonholes, machines known in the manufacturing world as temperamental work beasts usually intended and fine-tuned for woven material. Setting up the Reece 101 for button-fly blue jeans is one thing, for thick leather another.
In a nutshell, our leather jackets are produced in a local leather factory (in California, USA), and the buttonholes have to be out-sourced to a local denim factory (also in California, USA.) Lotsa logistics and QC involved there.

For the past few months, our on-going Campus Jacket production has been held back, garments all cut and sewn by the leather factory, but stuck at the buttonhole stage at the denim factory struggling to get its one machine properly adjusted for leather. And this is one stage you don’t want to mess up, as there is no second chance at making a proper keyhole buttonhole on a $1000 leather jacket. One round of lockstitch, one cut from the blade, one chance! Try that nine times on a single garment…

Today, the number of local Los Angeles technicians knowledgeable enough to even understand how a Reece 101 works is a single digit, a sad realization after this fine California city was — at its bygone clothing manufacturing heydays — a hub for sewing factories, cutting factories, sample-making ateliers, pattern makers, machinery experts, skilled operators, designers, etc… Off-shoring (discussed here), corporate greed and fast fashion unfortunately killed our thriving local garment industry, once as successful as the movie industry. In 2024, empty warehouses have replaced the bustling garment-producing factories, save for a few struggling survivors.

So, after a few cups of brain juice at MF® HQ, in good old “improvise, adapt, overcome” survival fashion, we decided to test on three unfinished CAMPUS prototypes, substituting sewn-on buttons with snap fasteners. It worked, both visually and practically!
For the new name, we simply ran out of puns and are calling this Campus Type II the CAMPUS “STUD” — stud fastener being another name for snap fastener —, having contemplated calling it the SNAPPY CAMPUS for a moment.
The brass snap fasteners blend in the 1930s “Cossack” jacket style remarkably well, subtly adding a mid-century twist, and contributing to the elegant vintage classic flair of a garment that never existed but could have, our design MO since 2006.

A run of the CAMPUS STUD is now available in our current grade of hefty (3-4 Oz.) veg-tan cowhide leather, in natural, black tea-core, and “Bison” tea-core.
The “Bison” option is a small limited run and a perfect choice if you fancy a brown leather jacket but find it challenging to commit to the patina journey of the natural model from pinkish-white-to-golden-brown. Introduced with the Ranch Blouse “Bison”, the leather will still age and develop an attractive patina with wear, but you just get a brown color head start!

The MF® CAMPUS STUD in veg-tan cowhide leather is designed and made in California by Mister Freedom®.

NOTE: Production of our OG sewn-on buttons Campus Jacket (in natural and black leather) will resume when we have the Reece 101 situation sorted out, ETA TBD.

SPECS:
PATTERN: An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets.

LEATHER:
1) Natural vegetable-tanned full grain cow hide leather, milled and supple, about 3-4 Oz weight. Exclusively developed for MF®.
2) Black vegetable-tanned “Tea-Core” full grain cow hide leather, black topcoat with natural-color flesh side, milled and supple, about 3-4 Oz weight. Exclusively developed for MF®.
3) “Bison” vegetable-tanned “Tea-Core” full grain cow hide leather, russet brown topcoat with natural-color flesh side, milled and supple, about 3-4 Oz weight. Exclusively developed for MF®. (“Bison” is how the tannery refers to the specific brown color, this is not buffalo hide.)

NOTE: The Mister Freedom® CAMPUS STUD is made of genuine leather. We use full-grain, and not top-grain leather (aka corrected or buffed leather, sanded to level surface inconsistencies). No two hides are alike and each panel may feature variations in texture along with natural imperfections.

DETAILS:
* 1930’s sportswear jacket silhouette.
* Special stud fastener edition, original MF® branded brass snaps for front/cuffs closure.
* Fully unlined, clean seams inside & out.
* Natural and tea-core veg-tan leather guaranteed to develop an attractive ’vintage’ patina over time, with normal wear and routine conditioning.
* One piece back.
* Cotton corduroy collar and wrist cuff facing.
* Slash pockets with original arrowhead-shaped pocket stops.
* Side gussets with adjustable side straps (NOS metal slide buckles.)
* Underarm venting eyelets.
* Mister Freedom® ‘The Sportsman’ woven label behind the slash pocket, right front panel.
* Sturdy poly-cotton thread stitching.
* Made in California, USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The MF® Campus Jacket “STUD” edition does not require any type of pre-treatment or conditioning and is ready to wear as-is.
This garment is cut quite slim and we recommend referring to our sizing chart and comparing measurements with a similar style of jacket that fits you according to your own style/expectations.

The CAMPUS STUD features a classic old-school type cut with a shorter period silhouette that sits higher than most contemporary jackets, designed to compliment higher rise vintage-style trousers and jeans.
I consistently wear a size 38 in the Campus Jacket and — at 5’7 ~145 lbs lately — also opted for a size 38 in the STUD edition, with enough room for a thick corduroy shirt.
Please refer to product page measurements (click on “Size Chart”), and reach out to sales@misterfreedom.com for sizing advice if needed.

CARE:
Embrace the fact that the natural or “Tea-Core” leather is prone to get nicked and scratched, revealing the under-layer color, unavoidably showing signs of wear. Occasional conditioning when needed (according to actual frequency of wear and activities) will contribute to an attractive warm tone natural patina, and a healthy-looking leather.
For maintenance, we recommend Pecard Leather Dressing, following this method.
Do not use neatsfoot oil or leather conditioners specific to footwear.
Note: Due to the unlined nature of the CAMPUS STUD, some shedding of the leather ‘flesh’ side may occur temporarily and leave (brush-able) flecks visible on dark shirts. This light shedding will eventually subside with normal wear.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA Western Snap Shirt, NOS 2×1 “Liberty” Denim (milled in USA by Columbus Mills), mfsc Sportsman FW2024, made in USA.

 

Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA Western Snap Shirt.
NOS “Liberty” 2×1 Denim (Columbus Mills) Edition.
FW2024 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA, introduced during Fall 2013, was our first traditional “western snap” shirt and has been released in a variety of denim-related fabrics.
Its fancier legacy is our Dude Rancher today, with more elaborate pattern work inspired by flashier vintage cowboy fashion. The OG design of the APPALOOSA — discussed here — blends humbler and more plebeian utilitarian roots, mostly lifted from a vintage 1950s Roebucks denim snap shirt (SEARS’ iconic workwear house brand rolled out in 1949.)

Our choice of painted metal snaps over the more obvious front closure option of pearl snap buttons — a detail inspired by 1950s Ranchcraft type shirts, JC Penneys’ own workwear house brand — helps separate our APPALOOSA from the average contemporary western shirt.

After the initial 2013 goat rodeo of releasing the first batch of the APPALOOSA in mixed yardages of NOS denims of unknown origins and specs, we re-cut the pattern in 2015 in an unassuming NOS HBT stripe denim fabric (with amazing patina potential), followed by a small batch of double indigo twill in 2016.

We decided to pull the pattern out of retirement this year, and sourced out a special NOS 2×1 “Liberty” denim fabric. Classic dark indigo blue warp, sturdy 10 Oz., slubby texture, dry hand, wide loom (i.e. no selvedge), produced by the legendary but now-defunct Columbus Mills, in Columbus, Georgia, USA.

Following the regrettable closing of Cone Mills’ White Oak plant in 2017, Columbus Mills terminated its traditional denim-producing activities in 2018.
Another sad story for American manufacturing. In the aftermath of NAFTA (North American Free Trade Agreement, a US bi-partisan groundbreaking treaty from 1994 establishing a tariff-free three-country accord), it became hard to compete for our domestic Textile Industry, and even harder to survive with Chinese denim pouring in the US at $1.25 a yard…

Long-standing American brands like Wrangler® — after the takeover from fast fashion conglomerate KONTOOR who now owns Wrangler® and Lee® — seized the opportunity to relocate manufacturing in Mexico (where they could pay factory workers ~30% of what they were required domestically), enjoying as well the less stringent local Environmental and Labor Laws. Who doesn’t like a pair of “authentic” jeans retailing at $40? The home consumer was happy. The staff from the likes of Columbus Mills getting a corporate layoff notice because their CEO opted for shareholders’ profits and offshoring over long-time employees’ job security? Not so much.

On a lighter note, from the looks and feel of the raw “Liberty” denim yardage, the APPALOOSA is bound to deliver some impressive evo results with normal wear and wash routine. I have yet to break-in my new shirt, but will keep you posted!

The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA Western Snap Shirt is designed and made in California, CA., in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from NOS “Liberty” denim fabric milled in USA by now-defunct Columbus Mills in Georgia.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
NOS 2×1 “Liberty” denim fabric, 10 Oz., classic dark indigo blue warp, slubby texture, dry hand, wide loom (i.e. no selvedge), produced by the now-defunct Columbus Mills, in Columbus, Georgia, USA.

DETAILS:
* Classic utilitarian ‘western shirt’ type silhouette and fit.
* 1950s-style painted metal DOT snaps for front closure and cuffs.
* Vintage ‘Roebucks’ type slanted front yoke.
* Western style single arcuate back yoke.
* Two chest pockets, snap flaps, mounted into yoke construction.
* Double snap cuffs.
* One piece sleeve plackets.
* Orange and yellow combo contrast stitching, high count, 100% cotton.
* Double chainstitch construction with green color thread “Sportsman” inside signature.
* Chambray side gusset, chainstitch run offs.
* Original mfsc “The Sportsman” woven rayon label.
* Made in USA

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA Western Snap Shirt in “Liberty denim comes RAW/unwashed. The pattern is designed so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

  • Cold soak in a tub for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
  • Line dry, no heat dryer.

Sizing on previous versions of our APPALOOSA Shirt has been a bit erratic.
At 5.7’ ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL on this 2024 iteration, for a comfortable fit.

The tagged size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit.
Please refer to our sizing chart and reach out to sales@misterfreedom.com for further sizing advice.

CARE:
When laundering is needed after repeat wear, machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Hot water and heat dryer are also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® RANGER Shirt, NOS Selvedge Woolen Plaid (milled in India), mfsc Sportsman FW2024, made in USA

MF® official sniffer, The Joe Greene, and his ride. ©2024

Mister Freedom® RANGER Shirt, NOS Selvedge Woolen Plaid fabric milled in India.
mfsc FW2024 Sportsman Catalog.
Made in USA.

I learned a trick or two from my rag-picking days in the mid 1990s, one of them being that all plaids are not created equal.
When corporate design teams (the likes of Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, Abercrombie, Gap, etc) were browsing my vintage racks at the Rosebowl, I quickly noticed that some plaid shirts were definitely getting more attention than others…
An obviously initial divider is between woven and printed plaids, then you got your run-of-the-mill brushed cotton flannels, commercial wool checks and popular traditional patterns, notorious Scottish tartans that long-ago crossed over to fashion island, Pendleton classics, buffalo plaids, shadow plaids, patterned tweeds, … Once in a while, a unicorn shows up, an unusual pattern/color combo that everyone goes nuts about.
And when your main source of income relies on the bacon you bring home from your local flea market only held once a month, one tends to start paying attention to both obvious and subtle differences between vintage plaid shirts!

Fast-forward to 2024 Mister Freedom®…
We regularly reach out to our friends at Sugarcane Co to mill a special check pattern for us, always inspired by the fabric of an unusual vintage specimen. Thanks to the long-standing textile expertise of Toyo’s Japan team — scrutinizing yarn hues with color wheels and analyzing fiber content with microscopic precision — , we have released a few “unicorn” plaids in our mfsc past. Opting for a 100% cotton yarn content when the original is 100% wool is often a design choice related to our roots in Southern California and local climate.
The Secoya shirt in “McG plaid” or “Winter King plaid” — and, notably, the upcoming eye-pleasing FW2024 “Secoya Tartan”— the Dude Rancher in “Joan plaid” and “Indigo-covert plaid”, the Scrambler jacket in “Tartan Check”, the lining of our Dune Buggy, …, all come to mind.

Sometime in 2023, while out-and-about Downtown LA, CA., hunting for New Old Stock fabrics for FW2024 — under the supervision and guidance of MF® official sniffer #TheJoeGreene —, the Joe sniffed out a very interesting woolen shadow plaid, in the ocean of textiles of an overstocked jobber warehouse. The bonus was that there was enough yardage to justify a small limited production. Sold!
From what intel I could gather, that fabric was milled in India, painstakingly-woven on traditional antiquated powerloom machines. It features a fancy monogramed selvedge tape with the mill’s brand — “Premium Woollens” — an apparently now-defunct maker.
The British textile industry has a long history of weaving/printing traditional textiles in its old Empire’s colonies — see Madras fabric legacy briefly discussed here — so it is no surprise that India’s textile industry would still expertly-produce a wide range of Old Albion’s classic woolen tweeds today.

From the ombre plaid vibe, that check pattern seems to fall under the “Shadow Plaid” family, with an attractive gradient heathered combination of black/grey/blue/ivory colored yarns. The fabric is a woolen blend, exact fiber content unknown.

We opted for the Mister Freedom® RANGER Shirt pattern for this fabric score, a visual nod to the Beach Boys’ 1962 Pendleton-sponsored outfits (more here),  and 60s SoCal surf culture in general. A bit of a stylistic stretch since our RANGER Shirt pattern conveys more of a 1930s-40s vibe, but, as you know, we always like to take a bit of liberty in the design process, and don’t do replicas.

This shirt is a fairly versatile and casual garment, easily wearable tucked or untucked, as an overshirt or just over a long-sleeve T-Shirt, paired with traditional denim jeans, 60s-style “wheat” jeans, chinos styles, etc…

The Mister Freedom® RANGER Shirt NOS “Selvedge Woolen Plaid” edition is designed and made in California, CA., in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co. Cut from NOS fabric milled in India.

SPECS:
FABRICS:
New Old Stock woolen plaid, woven shadow plaid pattern, selvedge ID featuring maker’s name, wool blend (exact yarn content unknown), fabric traditionally-milled in India by a now-defunct “Woollen Mills” weaver.

DETAILS:
* An original Mister Freedom® pattern, inspired by 1930s-40s workwear shirting and vintage utilitarian styles.
* Double chest pockets, inverted box-pleat, red bartack accents.
* Chin strap.
* Rounded shirt tails.
* Full button front.
* Contrast black cotton sateen collar band/button placket facing.

* Vintage-style classic “Cat Eyes” black corozo wood buttons.
* Selvedge side gussets, featuring fabric maker’s ID.
* Chainstitch construction, 100% cotton thread, tonal stitching, high count.
* MF® Sportsman signature contrast green “caballo” stitching inside.
* Mister Freedom® x Sugarcane mfsc SPORTSMAN rayon label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The Mister Freedom® RANGER Shirt in “Selvedge Woolen Plaid” comes RAW/unwashed. It is a dry-clean only garment, therefore ready-to-wear as-is.
At 5.7’ ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL, for a snug fit.
The size that will work best for you depends on your body type and how you like your clothes to fit.
Please refer to our sizing chart and reach out to sales@misterfreedom.com for further sizing advice.

CARE:
DRY CLEAN only.
Machine wash/heat dryer may result in excessive/irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024