The one that got away meets the one we just got in!
The Mister Freedom® MARINER Rollneck Sweater is part of our mfsc FW2022 FROGSVILLE line-up (a stylistic incursion into the world of vintage UDT, Frogmen and US Navy SEALs, with loose 1940s-1970s combat diving and Special Ops references), but somehow never got coverage on this blog. More the result of a temporary disruption in brain cell activity from yours truly than a lack of interest on the subject.
So there it is!
In the footsteps of its PRIVATEER predecessor, the MARINER Rollneck Sweater is inspired by classic cable knit sweaters, revisited MF® style.
Our Frogsville story goes that the garment was a private purchase for our Californian frogman (fictitious) character. While on a mission off the West coast of Ireland, he just wanted to somewhat blend in with local fishermen…
Our twist is that the knit pattern of the MARINER has that classic Aran sweater vibe, but we opted for 100% cotton yarns instead of wool. Less allergy-inducing, and more SoCal-weather friendly. The sweater fabric has a soft hand, a fairly loose knit with horizontal crosswise stretch for a comfortable vibe. Not intended to compete with dense wool fisherman sweaters in the warmth department, but perfect for mild temps back home.
Our other twist is in the proportions, as we aimed for a shorter old-school silhouette that pairs well with the kind of classic mid-to-high-waisted trouser styles we favor. To further accentuate the 1930s~40s period aesthetics, we went for a 5 inch-long waistband that compliments one’s natural waist line. For ref, the Privateer had a 3½ inch-long waistband.
The long ribbed roll cuffs are also a nod to vintage sweaters.
Two color options for the MARINER, genuine indigo blue and black, another departure from traditional fisherman sweaters, as repros are not our game.
Next, and fresh from our local California factory, the Mister Freedom® TOPSIDERS are back!
The pattern — discussed at length here — is an old favorite dating back to 2014 in MF® chronology, but with design roots in WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. Classic generous cut, high-waisted, straight wrap leg, button fly, four patch pockets, cinch back.
We have released our TOPSIDERS in a few fabric options through the years, mostly all sold-out today, although some random pairs found in storage may pop up in the MF® warehouse occasionally.
This FW2024 release features a woven goodie we scored from a local fabric jobber a while back: some New Old Stock yardage of premium crosshatch denim twill with a nice indigo moss blue color, wide loom, 11 Oz., a blend of 70% cotton and 30% linen of probable Italian mill origin. This fabric has an attractive and unusual greenish indigo warp, enhanced by a charcoal grey weft yarn. Although it has worked perfectly for our Continental suiting series because of its fine drape/color/texture, it also carries a vintage military-issued might-have-been fabric vibe, perfect for the TOPSIDERS. Workwear meets premium denim.
The MF® MARINER Rollneck and MF® TOPSIDERS are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and produced respectively in Japan and USA, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
MF® MARINER Rollneck Sweater SPECS:
FABRIC: 100% cotton yarn, classic Lace-Diamond-Rope cable knit pattern. Two color options: 1) Genuine dark indigo blue. 2) Black.
DETAILS: * Classic knit pattern, inspired by vintage cable knit “fisherman” type sweaters. * 100% cotton yarns. * Traditional “Lace-Diamond-Rope” cable knit pattern. * Single fold ribbed rollneck. * 1930s-40s style long seamless ribbed waistband. * Extended seamless ribbed roll cuffs. * Original mfsc “Waterfront Surplus” woven rayon label. * Made in JAPAN.
SIZING/FIT: This explains how we size and measure our garments. The MARINER Rollneck Sweater, in both indigo and black, comes pre-shrunk and is ready-to-wear as-is. No soaking required. This garment is considered true-to-size. At ~5’7 & 145 Lbs, I opted for a SMALL, for a classic period “boxy” fit, with the waistband sitting at the natural waist. Again, this is a period fit that may not work for one only comfortable with more modern and contemporary silhouettes, or with specific body proportions. The MARINER cable knit pattern allows for generous horizontal (crosswise) stretch, with average natural recovery (= the knit’s ability to return to its initial size after being stretched.) Therefore, measurements can be a bit misleading, as with all “stretchy” knit garments. We recommend sticking to your usual MF® size with this sweater. If you are a Medium in mfsc shirting, you are more-likely a Medium in the MARINER. To save on unnecessary frustration and size swap shipping fees, please reach out to sales@misterfreedom.com to tune-in sizing if unsure. Please do provide body type and measurements, silhouette expectation, and, if available, measurements of a similar garment you own that fits according to your style.
CARE: Turn sweater inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Air dry flat on a clean towel, or hang dry on a well-padded hanger to avoid shoulder stretching. Wash with similarly-colored garments. Indigo tends to bleed on light-colored garments/furniture. Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage.
MF® TOPSIDERS Crosshatch Moss Denim SPECS:
FABRIC: New Old Stock 11 Oz. Crosshatch Denim Twill, indigo moss blue (blue with a greenish sheen) warp x charcoal grey weft, wide loom, 11 Oz., slubby blend of 70% cotton & 30% linen, probable Italian origin.
DETAILS: * Original pattern adapted from a vintage pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams.) * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functioning rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman green inside chainstitch accent. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® TOPSIDERS come raw/unwashed, and are cut so that the measurements roughly match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:
Cold soak in a tub for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Line dry, no heat dryer.
At ~5’7 & 145 Lbs, I opted for a comfortable W30. I wear them slightly cinched in the back because of the generous waist. I went for “sloppy rolls” for now, and may hem them later.
To save on unnecessary frustration and size swap shipping fees, please reach out to sales@misterfreedom.com to tune-in sizing if unsure. Please do provide body type and measurements, silhouette expectation, and, if available, measurements of a similar garment you own that fits according to your style.
CARE: The MF® Topsiders NOS Crosshatch Moss denim are low-maintenance. Garment turned inside-out, machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry. Using hot water or heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
The TOPSIDERS is one of our popular and recurring naval-inspired trousers pattern.
First introduced in “Okinawa 301” denim during our Spring 2014 mfsc “Sea Hunt” collection, the style is our twist on vintage WW2 US Navy wrap-leg denim dungarees. The TOPSIDERS were subsequently released in an original “Marine Nationale” denim, and NOS OD HBT.
For FW2020, we are bringing back on deck another NOS fabric lucky score, an all cotton “Gunpowder Tea” color herringbone twill (HBT), previously featured on our Workman Shirt. Milled in Italy, this fancy lighter-weight fabric is yarn-dyed with sulfur dye, giving it its desirable low colorfastness. Although the dyeing processes are completely different, the results are somewhat similar to indigo-dyeing, where the dye molecules cling to the outer part of the yarn, and the core remains “un-dyed”. Our NOS twill is “gunpowder tea” color (dark greenish brown) in appearance, while the core of the yarns is unbleached natural. For those into instant gratification and quick, natural patina, this twill will rapidly ‘age’ after just a few machine washes. This is always a welcome feature for movie Wardrobe Departments.
High-waisted and full-legged, with a nice drape, our TOPSIDERS are designed with a vintage 1940’s military dungarees silhouette in mind, not yoga leggings.
The MF® Topsiders NOS Gunpowder Tea HBT edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS: PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by classic 1940’s-50’s workwear shirting. FABRIC: New Old Stock 100% cotton herringbone twill, gunpowder tea color, lighter-weight 8.5 Oz., low colorfastness, milled in Italy.
DETAILS: * Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams). * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functional rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman signature green inside chainstitch accent. * MF® Sportsman rayon woven label. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The TOPSIDERS Gunpowder Tea HBT come unwashed and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this usual protocol before wear:
Turn garment inside-out. Cold soak for about 30-40mn with occasional hand agitation.
Washing machine spin dry.
Line dry. (No heat dryer)
I opted for a W32 for a comfortable fit. I am 5.7’’ approx. 150 Lbs. Please refer to sizing chart for approximate raw/soaked measurements.
CARE: Launder when needed. We recommend turning the pants inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Wash separately from light-colored garments. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry. DISCLAIMER: This sulfur-dyed HBT fabric is not colorfast and its appearance will ‘age’ and look ‘worn-in’ after the first full cycle machine wash. Delicately hand washing might minimize the fading of the fabric, but it is intentionally designed to age fast.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist x Length: W28 x L34 W30 x L34 W32 x L34 W34 x L34 W36 x L36 W38 x L36
Mister Freedom® Topsiders, NOS OD HBT (New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill) Sportsman mfsc Fall 2017 Made in USA
NOS OD HBT utes?
You no dig dat GI Jive, Jack? Alreeeet.
“P-F-C to the C-P-L to the S-G-T to the L-T C-P the O-D the M-P makes ya do K-P…”
The MF® “Topsiders” pattern was first introduced during our Spring 2014 mfsc “Sea Hunt” collection.
The style was adapted from the familiar WW2 US Navy wrap-leg denim dungarees models. Originally released in the illustrious “Okinawa 301”, a Fall version followed in a special “Marine Nationale” denim twill, both made in Japan at the time.
For Fall 2017, we decided to add the popular Topsiders pattern to our Sportsman catalog, and release a made-in-USA edition cut from vintage New Old Stock fabric, a fine lot of crisp 100% cotton Olive Drab Herringbone Twill. Somewhat similar to the Buzz Rickson’s replica fabric inspired by 1940’s USMC utilities, our NOS textile is in a bit darker shade of green (kinda OG Shade 7 meets OG-107), and features a slightly lighter ounce. Our OD HBT is a bit heavier than the khaki HBT Sportsman Chinos released for Spring 2017, for those familiar with that NOS textile.
High-waisted and full-legged, with a nice drape, our HBT Topsiders are designed with a vintage 1940’s military dungarees silhouette in mind, not yoga leggings.
The MF® Topsiders OD HBT edition are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
Note: Production of the MF® Topsiders come without stencil/perso ID.
SPECS: FABRIC: Crispy 100% cotton New Old Stock Olive Drab Herringbone Twill.
DETAILS: * Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees. * High-waisted, roomy straight leg, vintage 1940’s military utility trousers silhouette. * Wrap-leg construction (no side seams). * Button fly, metal tack buttons, oxidized black donut type. * Vintage USMC-style oxidized black Wreath & Star donut type waist button. * Two functioning rounded-bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded-bottom rear back pockets. * Adjustable back cinch strap. * Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts. * Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam. * 100% cotton tonal stitching. * MF® Sportsman green inside chainstitch accent. * Made in USA.
SIZING/FIT: The MF® HBT Topsiders come raw/unwashed. A low-maintenance garment, we recommend an initial cold wash, full agitation, heat dryer. Once washed and dried, the HBT fabric will fully reveal its attractive texture. This process will also emphasize the subtle puckering of the seams/stitching, a commun characteristic of vintage workwear. I opted for a size 32, with a generous waist and full silhouette. I adjusted the back strap strap, fully cinching it. I could squeeze in a Waist 30, but, with this model, subjectively preferred the wide leg and comfortable silhouette of the Waist 32.
Please refer to the chart for approximate measurements. (Raw & fully rinsed and dried)
CARE: The MF® Topsiders NOS OD HBT are low-maintenance.
Machine wash when needed, cold/warm water, delicate cycle, eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry or tumble dry.
Available RAW/unwashed. Waist x Length: 28 x 34 30 x 34 32 x 34 34 x 34 36 x 36 38 x 36 RETAIL $289.95
Mister Freedom® Topsiders, “MN” (Marine Nationale) Denim.
‘Sea Hunt‘ mfsc Fall 2014.
Made in Japan.
Fall 2014 welcomes another option for our Topsiders. This will be a “Beverly Special” edition, as we requested to have a batch manufactured only for us.
Everything has been pretty much said about this pattern when we introduced the Topsiders during Spring 2014, in their original Okinawa denim edition.
Not to quote the old lunatic, but the original Topsiders pattern is “heavily inspired by an original pair of USN wrap-leg dungarees” from the 1940’s. We adapted the cut and fit, and “ they now have a mid-rise, similar to the rise of our Californian blue jeans“, if not slightly higher.
You know what’s coming next, but we promise this is the LAST time we mention the Marine Nationale, this week.
It has to do with the MN denim twill fabric we introduced as one of 2,478 options of the Map Shirt this Fall.
Here are some more wise words from our senile CEO, as originally posted here: “Sometime in the 1960’s, denim twill dungarees replaced the set of linen work clothes originally issued to French seaman recruits. These linen work tops and bottoms came in both white and bleu chiné. Our Spring 2014 Crew Pants, the “MN” model in cotton/linen, was a reference to that heather blue 1950’s version the cols bleus(the “blue collars”, aka the men with the red pompom) had in their sea bag.
The cotton denim the French opted for as the replacement fabric for the work uniform in the 1960’s was in no way comparable to its dark indigo blue US Navy dungaree counterpart. It was much lighter in color. The warp had a definite purplish tone. The weft gave an almost solid white aspect to the reverse side of the denim.
…
The textile experts at Sugar Cane Co did an amazing job at instructing their factory in milling this “MN denim twill” from the authentic vintage swatches we had supplied. To be honest, the first fabric sample roll lacked the purplish hue and was too grey, but this production batch is spot on!
We chose to have it milled on shuttle looms, a costly process, opting for a solid white selvedge ID.
The result is an exclusive mfsc 9.4 oz. denim twill I am quite found of and proud to introduce for our “Sea Hunt” Fall 2014 chapter…”
We’ve had requests, but we’re sharing more glossies out of the old geezer’s albums anyways.
These photos were shot somewhere in the TAAF off Madagascar, around 1986, featuring the period regulation Marine Nationale-issued cotton work pants. If I remember well, these were not extremely desirable in cut and fit, had a zipper fly and pocketing pattern reminiscent of our Spring 2014 Crew Pants. The navy blue deck jacket was the regulation model that had by then replaced its older jungle cloth cousin, a family of foul weather gear that inspired the recent Mister Freedom® Blouson de Quart.
A bit less regulation were the Vans®, the funky do, and the USS Kitty Hawk cover bartered with a Tuléar local for my extra pair of black regulation dress shoes.
All these bits of souvenirs make the fabric of our Topsiders quite special to me today.
The mfsc Topsiders “MN” denim twill are made in Japan as a collaboration between Mister Freedom® and Sugarcane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC:
9.4 oz. denim twill, 100% cotton, solid white selvedge ID. Milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees.
* Roomy straight leg.
* Wrap-leg construction, no side seams.
* Button fly, white corozo (vegetable ivory nut) top and fly buttons.
* Selvedge waistband.
* Selvedge concealed ‘crotch gusset’.
* Two functioning rounded bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded bottom rear back pockets.
* Adjustable back cinch strap.
* Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts
* Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Customizable mfsc white woven label.
* Made in Japan.
SIZING/WASHING: The Topsiders come RAW (unwashed) and will pretty much shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold soak of about 20mn, machine spin dry or drip dry, line dry.
Do not use heat dryers.
I wear my usual 32 waist in these, using the back cinch to adjust the top block. It’s a comfortable fit, do not expect slim fitting jeans.
Further washing should be limited to when required by common sense, as in when your jeans are dirty.
It is a good idea to wash denim inside-out to avoid marbling.
Please refer to sizing chart for raw and rinsed measurements. Please note that our rinsed measurements (cold soak/line dry) show minimal shrinkage. Using hot water/heat dryer (both NOT recommended) will result in more shrinkage.
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY Tagged Sizes
W28× L36
W30× L36
W32× L36
W34× L36
W36× L36
W38× L36 Retail $399.95
Available from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support 🙂
The idea was brought to the drafting table by one member of the Team, a retired Navy snipe. The beat-up denim work pants that had accompanied him in his early years at sea turned into the basic pattern of the mfsc “Topsiders”…
-o-o-o-o-o-
Denim often goes in pair with imagery of US Navy ships at sea during WW2.
Anchored in popular culture by Hollywood, immortalized in such great movies as “The Sand Pebbles“, the below-and-above-deck sailor getups meant denim and chambray. Never to be worn off-base or off-ship, work outfits of enlisted personnel consisted of denim dungarees matched with a choice of chambray shirt, white skivvy or non-regulation sunburned skin. The expertly shaped “Dixie Cup” topped that familiar swabbie silhouette.
Spare sets of work clothes were often privately purchased, according to one’s chores. As a result, period photos often display an eclectic mix of regulation and non-regulation dungarees, including seafarer-type flares in the 1930’s… Same drill with chambray shirts, as non regulation chin straps and pocket flaps are sometimes spotted on early shots.
For further reading on WW2 USN dungarees head over to this RIVETED blog post by artist Patrick Segui.
(All below photos from MF® private photo archives, gathered from several photo albums.)
Although personnel in the Army was also issued sets of denim work clothes (such as M1937 shirt and trousers, M1940 chore jacket), these didn’t ‘make the cut’, as they were replaced by Olive Drab Herringbone Twill field uniforms, in 1941. This assured OD HBT its place in the limelight, a center stage spot in the fabrics of heroes.
For both 1940’s US Marines and Army personnel, HBT became the field fabric, while blue denim stuck to sailors of the US Navy.
Photos below are US Army pre-HBT days, 1937~39 according to album personal notes.
-o-o-o-o-o-
An original pair of vintage 1940’s wrap-leg US Navy issued dungarees has somewhat of an ‘awkward’ fit: very snug waist, no hips, uncommonly high-rise and very wide straight leg. I have to admit that I quite like that silhouette on old photos, albeit challenging by today’s standards for some.
However heavily inspired by an original pair of USN wrap-leg dungarees, our “Okinawa Topsiders” feature an adapted cut. Yes, we decided to make it even more ill-fitting than an original. Mission accomplished. They now have a mid-rise, similar to the rise of our Californian blue jeans. Please note that this lower rise might not work for some who are partial to traditional authentic high-waisted sailor trousers…
We also added the old cinch-back strap for good measure.
Because of the one piece wrap leg construction, it would appear that no selvedge would be showing? Have no fear, it is inconspicuously displayed twice! First in the waist band and then in the crotch gusset. Yes Sir, and here is why:
We opted for one of our long-time favorite denim fabric, the “Okinawa” indigo selvedge left-hand twill SC401 denim, a blend of 50% cotton and 50% sugar cane fibers patented by Sugar Cane Co. The width of this shuttle-loom-milled textile is about 29 inches. This is not wide enough for an entire wrapped leg. Therefore, an extra piece of denim fabric had to be spliced in order to ‘finish’ the leg. This is where the selvedge appears, concealed at the crotch.
Look Ma… no red lines!
Like the vintage original from our archives, our “Topsiders” feature four patch pockets, the front ones judiciously positioned to discourage Parisian metro pickpockets. We did managed to make them a bit more accessible than the wrap pockets on our original “7161 Utility Trousers” from 2007, so no need to take your pants off to retrieve loose change. The back pockets are positioned low and are quite deep.
To give our Topsiders a flair of USN undress whites, we chose off-white corozo (aka vegetable ivory) buttons, top and fly.
Labeling:
Our “Sea Hunt” label this season is a nod to vintage European military/utilitarian type labels, with more space left out to fill with custom marking than the usual boasting about ‘Best this/Greatest that’. This ties in with the concept behind this 2014 Collection, where each garment was issued for a specific mission. One would log-in date/location/name and other relevant info with a marking device directly on the white label…
The “Okinawa Topsiders” are made in Japan as a collaboration between Mister Freedom® and Sugarcane Co.
SPECS:
FABRIC: “Okinawa” SC401, unsanforized 10 Oz. left-hand twill indigo denim, 50% cotton 50% sugar cane fibers, solid white Selvedge ID, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Pattern adapted from an original pair of WW2 US Navy denim dungarees.
* Roomy straight leg.
* Wrap-leg construction, no side seams.
* Button fly, white corozo (vegetable ivory nut) top and fly buttons.
* Selvedge waistband.
* Selvedge ‘crotch gusset’.
* Two functioning rounded bottom front patch pockets, two deep rounded bottom rear back pockets.
* Adjustable back cinch strap.
* Skinny belt-loops for 2” wide belts
* Flat felled seam construction for seat and inseam.
* 100% cotton black stitching.
* Customizable mfsc white woven label.
SIZING/WASHING: The Topsiders come RAW (unwashed) and will pretty much shrink to tagged size.
We recommend an original cold soak of about 20mn, machine spin dry or drip dry, line dry. We don’t recommend heat dryers.
Further washing should be limited to when required by common sense, as in when your jeans are dirty, which obviously greatly fluctuates according to one’s occupation.
It is a good idea to wash denim inside-out when comes bath time, to avoid marbling.
The cut of the Topsiders is pretty generous in the leg and in the waist. It is the nature of the Okinawa denim to shrink and stretch back and forth with each rinse/dry/wear cycle. This eventually settles, but two pairs of waist-32 might end up fitting differently according to the wearer’s build and activities.
The 1½ inch fold of the bottom hem uses a simple single-needle machine stitch. Across the board, the length shrinks to an approximate 34 inches.
I wear a comfortable waist 32 in the Topsiders, with room for the entire family.
I do not recommend sizing down for a slimmer silhouette, as this would result in making the rise appear slightly too low, in my opinion.
Please refer to sizing chart for raw and rinsed measurements. Please note that our rinsed measurements (cold soak/line dry) show minimal shrinkage. Using hot water/power dryer (both NOT recommended) will result in more shrinkage.
Available Raw (unwashed) ONLY Tagged Sizes
W28× L36
W30× L36
W32× L36
W34× L36
W36× L36
W38× L36 Retail $439.95
Available soon from www.misterfreedom.com
Please call the store at 323-653-2014 or email sales@misterfreedom.com with any questions not addressed above.
Thank you sincerely for your support
🙂
