Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA Western Snap Shirt
NOS HBT stripe denim edition (2015) fabric evo
Made in USA
The Mister Freedom® APPALOOSA, introduced during Fall 2013, was our first traditional “western snap” shirt and has been released in a variety of denim-related fabrics.
Its fancier legacy is our Dude Rancher today, with elaborate pattern work, but the OG design — discussed here — blended more plebeian Roebuck denim snap shirts and utilitarian roots of vintage cowboy fashion.
After the initial 2013 goat rodeo of releasing the first batch in mixed yardages of NOS denims of unknown origins and specs, we cut the pattern in an unassuming NOS HBT stripe denim fabric in 2015, followed by a small batch of double indigo twill in 2016.
Fabric wise, classifying that 2015 release in the HBT/stripe family is a bit misleading. The vertical woven herringbone twill pattern is hardly noticeable to the untrained eye (it’s even hard to capture on camera!), and the weft pin stripe not as blatant as, say, classic workwear hickory stripes.
The “unassuming” part is because that specific fabric in its raw state looks like an average 2×1 denim, and will only reach full character after repeat wear/wash cycles.
We don’t resort to factory-distressed gimmicks to make our clothes more relevant to contemporary fashion, and more appealing to the average consumer, we let you do the hard work of breaking-in your own clothes. A “vintage wash”, in industry parlance, consists in mechanically abrading/sand-blasting/stone-washing/laser-burning/etc a perfectly fine garment, resulting in a fake patina that took 90% out of the life of said garment, and ultimately makes you look like a tool.
More on that here.
 “Wear your clothes!” A few pieces of the Appaloosa NOS HBT denim still available from www.misterfreedom.com and our Los Angeles brick & mortar store.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
CALIFORNIAN Lot64SF & CAMPUS BLOUSE “Santa Fe” Edition
Black 14 Oz. Wide Wale “Double Cross” 100% Cotton Corduroy
mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA
You are probably familiar with the fact that we like to reimagine classic patterns around here, and play with interesting fabrics. So, when one material comes along, and ticks all the Mister Freedom® boxes (vintage vibe/natural fibers/provenance/cost/etc…), you know it’s making it to the cutting table!
The CALIFORNIAN Lot64 Jeans and CAMPUS Blouse are two staples of the Mister Freedom® USA-made roster, both original patterns released in a wide range of premium denims so far, some domestic New-Old-Stock, some milled/imported from Japan.
For this edition, we developped a very special grade of vintage-inspired 1940s all-cotton wide-wale corduroy (8 wale cord) in Japan, a perfect candidate for a fancy black cord cowboy tuxedo!
This fabric is reminiscent of traditional “Velour d’Amiens” (the famed sturdy wide-wale cotton corduroy material from France, for those familiar with French 1930s vintage hunting wear/workwear), discussed in this blogpost:
“Competing with the British Lancashire textile industry at the time, French mills established around the City of Amiens had been producing this workwear corduroy grade since the 18th Century. If some still refer to heavy corduroy fabric as Manchester in some parts of Europe, “Velour d’Amiens” is the term that is familiar to French old-timers.
Cosserat, a French mill founded around 1793, and one of the last velour côtelé manufacturer from Amiens, permanently closed its doors in 2012. With low-cost corduroy manufacturing coming out of China flooding the market, management of the long-standing Coserrat mill eventually gave up on restructuring attempts, and genuine “Velour d’Amiens” is sadly no longer manufactured.”
That fancy fabric initially made it into our mfsc catalog with the Mattock Jacket, in a camel brown version, followed by another special dye lot in “vintage” black for our Roamer Car Coat.
For the textile techie and traditional weaving enthusiast, this material falls under the “double cross” corduroy family — a process referred-to in Japan as “niju ori”, literally “double weave” —, a premium woven cord with special interlaced pile and ground yarns.
The semantic sound of a CALIFORNIAN “Santa Fe” edition may be a bit geographically puzzling, but the scoop is that the New Mexico moniker was initially chosen for our corduroy Campus Blouse, as a mere style nod to sport jackets produced by Janscraft in the 1930s-40s (and other period makers), featuring colorful Chimayo-style blankets combined with contrasting corduroy panels. The idea of a matching Californian came later in our design process, but the moniker stuck.
Whether you decide to go full-on Rio Grande, or mismatch the combo with traditional denim, vintage-style slacks, old-school leather jackets etc, both garments are versatile on their own, and easy to incorporate into classic wardrobes.
The Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN & CAMPUS BLOUSE “Santa Fe” edition, in black 14 Oz. wide wale “Double Cross” 100% cotton corduroy, are designed and produced in California USA, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co, from premium fabric milled in Japan.
MF® CAMPUS BLOUSE “Santa Fe” SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, with all construction/pattern edits necessary for a woven fabric MF® original adaptation.
FABRIC:
Fancy “double-cross” 100% cotton corduroy, 8 wale cord, jet black, 14 Oz., milled in Japan.
Side gussets & pocketing: NOS 2×1 dark indigo 10.5 Oz. Japanese denim.
Trims: Black tea-core leather trims (pocket stops/side straps).
DETAILS:
* Woven fabric interpretation of our classic veg-tan leather Campus jacket.
* An original pattern inspired by 1930’s sportswear ‘Cossack’ type unlined leather jackets, with all necessary construction/pattern edits.
* Arm/cuff construction borrowed from our Ranch Blouse pattern.
* Trim and short 1930’s silhouette, complimenting mid-to-high-waisted trousers and dungarees.
* One-piece back.
* Fully unlined, clean and challenging flat-felled seam construction, no overlock seams.
* Slash pockets with leather arrowhead pocket stops.
* NOS 2×1 denim accents on side gussets/pocket welts/under collar facing with interesting contrast texture, will develop attractive patina with wear.
* Adjustable side strap style inspired by our 2012 Drover Blouse.
* Keyhole buttonholes.
* Black corozo wood (aka ivory nut) ‘Cat Eyes’ buttons.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread.
* Mister Freedom® original ‘The Sportsman’ black & gold rayon woven label.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
SIZING:
This explains how we size and measure our garments.
The CAMPUS Blouse “Santa Fe” comes UN-WASHED, and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak in a tub for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
At ~5’7 & 145 Lbs, I opted for a comfortable size 36, consistent with the sizing of my recent Campus Blouse Awa-Ai, and previous Campus Blouse Midnight Denim.
Please check actual post-soak measurements on the product page chart to dial in what works for your specific body specs/preferred silhouette.
To save on unnecessary frustration and size-swaping shipping fees, please reach out to sales@misterfreedom.com to tune-in sizing if unsure. Please do provide body type and measurements, silhouette expectation, and, if available, measurements of a similar garment you own that fits according to your style.
Disclaimer: Using alternative methods for the initial shrink (such as soaking in hot water/full machine wash/heat dryer etc) may result in different sizing measurements. Do not boil this jacket, as it has leather trims.
CARE:
Turn garment inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage and damage.
Do not boil this jacket, as it features genuine leather trims.
MF® CALIFORNIAN Lot64SF “Santa Fe” SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1950s-1960s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT64 cut features a traditional fit, classic mid rise, with a slightly-tapered leg for a 1950s-60s period vibe.
FABRIC:
Fancy “double-cross” 100% cotton corduroy, 8 wale cord, jet black, 14 Oz., wide loom, milled in Japan.
Pocketing: NOS 2×1 dark indigo 10.5 Oz. Japanese denim.
DETAILS:
* Original Mister Freedom® classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern in our popular Lot64 cut (slightly tapered leg, classic mid rise, traditional 1950s-60s silhouette.)
* Button fly, combination of brass/silver original MF® branded metal cast waist/fly tack buttons.
* Overlocked leg outseam.
* NOS fabric pocket bags, 2×1 dark indigo denim.
* MF® original “M” branding stitch design on rear pockets, tonal.
* MF® branded black tea-core leather patch on rear pocket.
* Black tonal stitching, 100% cotton thread, gauge combination.
* Coin pocket.
* Hidden back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket reinforcement bar tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket opening reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher (brown woven blanket.)
* Made in USA
SIZING:
This explains how we size and measure our garments.
The CALIFORNIAN Lot64SF “Santa Fe” comes UN-WASHED, and these jeans are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend this usual protocol before wearing:
- Cold soak in a tub for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
The waist size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. I opted for a W30 with this model (my current waist size in MF® Californians), for a classic silhouette with a fitted top block and comfortable straight leg. I’m about 5’7 – 145 lbs.
Please check actual post-soak measurements on the product page chart to dial in what works for your specific body specs/preferred silhouette.
To save on unnecessary frustration and size-swaping shipping fees, please reach out to sales@misterfreedom.com to tune-in sizing if unsure. Please do provide body type and measurements, silhouette expectation, and, if available, measurements of a similar garment you own that fits according to your style.
Disclaimer: Using alternative methods for the initial shrink (such as soaking in hot water/full machine wash/heat dryer etc) may result in different sizing measurements. Do not boil these jeans, as they feature a genuine leather branding patch.
CARE:
Turn garment inside out. Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Hang dry.
Wash with similarly-colored garments.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive shrinkage and damage.
Do not boil these jeans, as they feature a genuine leather branding patch.
The CAMPUS BLOUSE “Santa Fe” and CALIFORNIAN Lot64SF are available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
Mister Freedom® CALIFORNIAN Lot44WL “WIDE LOOM” edition
mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA
In the textile industry, the term “selvedge” refers to the finished edges of a fabric loomed on specific machines, as opposed to the frayed edges of a fabric milled on other types of machines. When applied to the Denim Industry in its most recent history, those two end warp lines some like to flash on the outseam of their jeans have become quite the hype.
Since the rise from obscurity of selvedge denim in the late 1980s~early 1990s — kickstarted at the time by a vintage clothing craze in Japan (then in the USA) unknowingly-creating new international markets — and its follow-up re-introduction by “Heritage Fashion” players in the early aughts, the mighty indigo blue workwear twill has taken many faces: from faithful reproductions of American denims of the Golden Age in traditional weights and colors, to creative interpretations blending cotton and sugar cane fibers (pioneered by Sugarcane co), …, all the way to fashion nonsense in all kinds of silly washes, cuts, and lasered distressed looks.
What started as a niche market mostly catering to vintage clothing aficionados and denim otaku, was bound to eventually evolve in an industry dropping products on the shelves of fast-fashion purveyors such as H&M, Target, Uniqlo, etc… It took a few years, but there they were, selvedge denim bargain pantaloons with a mind-boggling $40.00 retail tag, price landed in the US. Exotic work camps labor magic, I guess?
What is also quite magical is the De Minimis Rule, a little-known loophole allowing consumers to import $800/day without paying duties on the goods, and that since 2016. If this sounds advantageous to the average American fashionista unconcerned by the Country of Origin of what’s in their shopping cart, SHEIN has also been quite thrilled about cheap fashion allowed to cross US borders duty-free, one small package at-a-time…
On the other end of the Garment Industry’s spectrum of nonsense, a pair of $1850 Prada jeans is quite the human feat. Granted those britches are “crafted” in Italy, a country that also produces $7000 faux-denim jeans. All is well.
Back to selvedge denim, not all fabrics woven on narrow shuttle-loom are created equal. Machinery, operators, provenance, yarn content and dyeing process, …, all do matter. An indigo denim slowly-produced in small batches on temperamental vintage Toyoda machines by a reputable Japanese mill will never be comparable to mass-produced renditions milled in China, Thailand, or Turkey.
The fable about Japan purchasing defunct machinery from US mills in the 1980s (when, to boost US domestic productivity and profits, the switch was made from slow shuttle-loom to fast projectile-loom machines) is a well-anchored denimhead myth. Most-likely closer to the truth is that in the early 1970s, a dying textile industry in the Kojima area in Japan decided to switch from producing local school uniforms to making period Taiyōzoku (~rich juvenile delinquent, a Japanese take on 1950’s American “rebels”) style jeans. Kojima makers scrambled to re-rig their old Toyoda looms in order to mill denim fabric the way it was done by the likes of Cone Mills, back in the day. They succeeded, and managed to eventually top their American masters, as crafty Japanese artisans on survival mode often do when on a quest to revive authenticity, and not only in the textile industry. The attention to details, work ethics and dedication, are usually what gives Japanese craftsmen the lead. For those interested in that background, read the insightful 2015 book Ametora.
Back on point, there is a lot of cheap selvedge denim out there. There is also premium non-selvedge denim fabric, woven on projectile loom machines, known as wide-loom denim.
For this special edition of our Californian Blue Jeans, we thought of the unthinkable, and opted for the later.
One of the design decision was made because we happened to stumble across some very handsome NOS (New Old Stock) denim yardage with an attractive and classic indigo-dyed warp color. The other reason is because that fabric was produced by a plant located in Georgia, USA, namely Mt. Vernon Mills. They’ve only been around for 175 years, but that pedigree will work for us!
There is also something kinda cool about sporting a pair of premium denim jeans boasting overlocked outseams in 2024 — made in USA, the old-school way, period construction/trims and all — , as a birdie to fast fashion. For the cuffers out there, the subtle pleasure of looking like the guy who doesn’t know in the eyes of the fashionista/denim snob confusedly-staring at your non-selvedge ankles could be priceless.
For those concerned about #denimfades, especially on Fridays, I’ve seen many well-worn used Levi’s 501s in the rags (i.e. post-1981 non-selvedge loomstate denim) with amazing “blue collar” type fade patterns/whiskers, and many very boring pairs of selvedge jeans. Why? Because the former were properly and frequently worn, while participating in activities not only involving sofa gaming or binging on Netflix.
For the cut, we decided to pull out the Mister Freedom® Lot44 pattern out of retirement, our earliest period cut. Wide leg, mid/high waist, 1930s-40s vibe silhouette.
Trims and construction are in par with our fancy USA-made Californian standards, from all-cotton two-tone thread stitching to rear pocket bartack and riveting, to all around classic detailing. Fabric is the novelty, and the message.
We also decided to release the Lot44WL (Wide Loom) in two options, a buckle-back version (an old garment design feature with roots in 19th Century European tailoring, before the advent of belts helped with keeping one’s britches up), and plain back style.
The CALIFORNIAN Lot44WL “Wide Loom” are designed and manufactured in California by Mister Freedom®, in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage 1930s-1950s era five-pocket blue jeans. Our LOT44 cut features a classic old school fit, mid-rise with a full straight leg and wide period silhouette.
Two model options:
1) Lot44WL-BB: featuring buckle back cinch and belt loops.
2) Lot44WL-PB: plain back, no cinch strap.
FABRIC:
All American NOS non-selvedge denim, 14.5 Oz. indigo 3 x 1 right-hand twill, wide loom, milled in USA by Mt. Vernon Mills.
Pocketing: NOS 100% cotton “Troy Twill” fabric, milled in Japan.
DETAILS:
* Classic vintage five-pocket blue jeans pattern and fit.
* Traditional mid-rise.
* Button fly, original MF®-branded patinaed silver tack buttons.
* Overlocked leg outseam (non-selevdge.)
* Classic NOS cotton twill pocketing.
* MF® original “M” stitch design on rear pockets.
* Natural cowhide leather MF®-branded patch on rear pocket. Will age with normal wash/wear.
* Twelve types of 100% cotton threads used for construction (gauge and color combination.) Main colors are yellow and orange.
* Coin pocket.
* Concealed back pocket reinforcement rivets, with top pocket bar-tack stitching.
* Unmarked copper riveting for pocket reinforcement.
* Original MF® paper pocket flasher, cobalt blue.
* Made in California, USA, in an ethically-responsible and small family-owned factory.
SIZING/FIT:
The Californian Lot44WL jeans come UN-WASHED (raw) and we recommend the following protocol before wearing:
- Fill a tub with cold water.
- Soak jeans for about 30-40mn, occasional hand agitation.
- Line dry.
The Lot44 is the widest silhouette of all our Californian cuts.
The Lot44WL (Wide Loom edition) features a full straight leg and a very generous waist (about 2’’ larger than tagged size.)
The size that will work best for you depends on how you like your jeans to fit. Please refer to our size chart and measuring method.
At 5’7 ~145 Lbs., I opted for a tagged W30 (with a post-rinse measured waist of ~32’’), for a wide leg and 1930s~50s period silhouette.
I wear my Lot44WL Buckle-Back with the waist slightly cinched, and a VEB belt to keep them up!
CARE for your MF® denim jeans:
Wash your jeans when necessary, as with other premium denim garments.
• Turn jeans inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the denim fabric.
• Machine wash separately from light-colored garments, using cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent.
• Line dry.
Note: using hot water/heat dryer may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
Mister Freedom® BERKELEY Shirt, Revisited Button-Up Pattern.
NOS Indigo Dobby Stripe edition.
SS2023 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.
This edition is a full button-up version of our classic button-down collar BERKELEY Shirt pattern, an early 1960s-inspired garment with a vintage preppy vibe, a nod to 1960s American campuses attire, California old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style. The moniker is a reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.
Several versions (in short-sleeve or long-sleeve) of our BERKELEY are available in the Mister Freedom® USA-made “Sportsman” catalog, a pattern introduced with the original 2018 Bleeding Madras S/S edition.
Followed a string of timeless classics, produced in limited runs:
* NOS indigo/white hickory stripe L/S
* NOS brown “Cacao” chambray L/S
* NOS traditional navy/white plaid Madras L/S
* NOS “Krazy” Madras S/S
* NOS Albini Italian linen red/blue woven checks S/S
* NOS Albini Italian white/blue woven stripe L/S
For this release, we tweaked the BERKELEY’s pull-over pattern into a full open-front style, aka button-up pattern.
The fabric we opted for — scored in a Downtown LA jobber warehouse — is one of the most unusual textile we’ve worked with! A very peculiar New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe with amazing texture, pattern, and incredible slub, origin unknown. The fabric is reminiscent of a specific family of antique hand-loomed Japanese textiles, for those familiar with our vintage boro selection at LA HQ.
Very temperamental and challenging to cut/sew — production was a tour de force for the local factory — this beautiful fabric takes all its vintage appeal and uniqueness after the shirt is first rinsed.
Just be ready: the indigo color will pop, texture intensify, ribbed woven pattern subtly oscillate, seams/stitching pucker, panels organically torque, …, turning the BERKELEY into an incredible AREA 7161 wall hanger!
This shirt was, however, designed and intended to be worn, so do take it out around town, and enjoy compliments from random strangers.
The BERKELEY is an easy-to-wear garment with a classic menswear style vibe, to be paired with your favorite jeans, NV slacks, Sportsman chinos or bermudas…
The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.
SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style, and American campuses attire with a period preppy vibe. This edited pattern is a full button-up version of our original pull-over Berkeley Shirts.
FABRIC:
Vintage New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe, dry hand 100% cotton, attractive woven pattern with unusual slubby horizontal ribs, textured and breathable, origin unknown.
DETAILS:
* Full button-up open front revised pattern.
* Long sleeve edition.
* Classic 1960s button-down collar.
* Indigo-dyed corozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* High count 100% cotton stitching.
* Chain-stitch caballo construction, featuring “Sportsman” green thread accent on inside.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from New Old Stock fabric.
SIZING/FIT:
The BERKELEY Shirt, indigo Dobby stripe edition, comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this straight-forward easy protocol:
- Rinse in cold water, machine setting on delicate, full cycle.
- Line dry, no heat dryer.
At 5’7 ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL for a trim fit, classic 1960s silhouette, personal preference. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, or size up for a more relaxed cut.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked/rinsed measurements, and reach out to sales@misterfredom.com for further sizing advise.
CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.
Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.
Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024
A reminder that if you do wear the clothes you invest in, they will eventually look worn.
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