Mister Freedom® infos « CHRISTOPHELOIRON®

Mister Freedom® BERKELEY Family addition: Revisited Button-up Shirt Pattern, NOS Indigo Dobby Stripe. Made in USA

: whaaa?

Mister Freedom® BERKELEY Shirt, Revisited Button-Up Pattern.
NOS Indigo Dobby Stripe edition.
SS2023 mfsc Sportsman catalog.
Made in USA.

This edition is a full button-up version of our classic button-down collar BERKELEY Shirt pattern, an early 1960s-inspired garment with a vintage preppy vibe, a nod to 1960s American campuses attire, California old-school collegial wear and casual Ivy-League style. The moniker is a reference to UC Berkeley, and its rich history.
Several versions (in short-sleeve or long-sleeve) of our BERKELEY are available in the Mister Freedom® USA-made “Sportsman” catalog, a pattern introduced with the original 2018 Bleeding Madras S/S edition.

Followed a string of timeless classics, produced in limited runs:
* NOS indigo/white hickory stripe L/S
* NOS brown “Cacao” chambray L/S
* NOS traditional navy/white plaid Madras L/S
* NOS “Krazy” Madras S/S
* NOS Albini Italian linen red/blue woven checks S/S
* NOS Albini Italian white/blue woven stripe L/S

For this release, we tweaked the BERKELEY’s pull-over pattern into a full open-front style, aka button-up pattern.

The fabric we opted for — scored in a Downtown LA jobber warehouse — is one of the most unusual textile we’ve worked with! A very peculiar New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe with amazing texture, pattern, and incredible slub, origin unknown. The fabric is reminiscent of a specific family of antique hand-loomed Japanese textiles, for those familiar with our vintage boro selection at LA HQ.

Very temperamental and challenging to cut/sew — production was a tour de force for the local factory — this beautiful fabric takes all its vintage appeal and uniqueness after the shirt is first rinsed.
Just be ready: the indigo color will pop, texture intensify, ribbed woven pattern subtly oscillate, seams/stitching pucker, panels organically torque, …, turning the BERKELEY into an incredible AREA 7161 wall hanger!
This shirt was, however, designed and intended to be worn, so do take it out around town, and enjoy compliments from random strangers.

The BERKELEY is an easy-to-wear garment with a classic menswear style vibe, to be paired with your favorite jeans, NV slacks, Sportsman chinos or bermudas…

The MF® BERKELEY shirt is designed and made in California, USA, by Mister Freedom® in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
An original mfsc pattern inspired by vintage 1960’s Ivy League style, and American campuses attire with a period preppy vibe. This edited pattern is a full button-up version of our original pull-over Berkeley Shirts.

FABRIC:
Vintage New Old Stock indigo Dobby Stripe, dry hand 100% cotton, attractive woven pattern with unusual slubby horizontal ribs, textured and breathable, origin unknown.

DETAILS:
* Full button-up open front revised pattern.
* Long sleeve edition.
* Classic 1960s button-down collar.
* Indigo-dyed corozo wood “Cat-Eyes” buttons.
* Two inverted-pleat chest pockets.
* Side gussets.
* Tailored-style sleeve setting.
* High count 100% cotton stitching.
* Chain-stitch caballo construction, featuring “Sportsman” green thread accent on inside.
* MF® woven “Sportsman” rayon label.
* Designed and made in USA from New Old Stock fabric.

SIZING/FIT:

The BERKELEY Shirt, indigo Dobby stripe edition, comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this straight-forward easy protocol:

Rinse in cold water, machine setting on delicate, full cycle.
Line dry, no heat dryer.

At 5’7 ~145 lbs, I opted for a SMALL for a trim fit, classic 1960s silhouette, personal preference. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, or size up for a more relaxed cut.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked/rinsed measurements, and reach out to sales@misterfredom.com for further sizing advise.

CARE:
Machine wash on DELICATE, cold water, mild eco-friendly detergent. Line dry.
Do not use the washer’s heavy-duty cycle. Heat dryer is also not recommended and may result in excessive and irreversible shrinkage.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles brick & mortar store, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® RANCH BLOUSE “RINGO”, Black Tea-core Veg-Tan Cowhide Leather Edition, evo. Made in USA FW2021.

A reminder that if you do wear the clothes you invest in, they will eventually look worn.

Mister Freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, NOS Stripe Albini Linen & NOS Kuroki Double Indigo Twill. Made in USA

Mister Freedom® “ARISTOCRAT” Shirt, NOS Stripe Albini Linen & NOS Kuroki Double Indigo Twill.
SS2023 & FW2024 mfsc Sportsman catalog
Made in USA

The Mister Freedom® ARISTOCRAT is our humble attempt at a straight-up menswear dress shirt, stylish yet unpretentious, classic yet original, with our commitment to continue producing it in USA. It has made recurring appearances in the MF® Sportsman catalog in a variety of internationally-sourced fancy fabrics.

Initially introduced in a Japan-milled selvedge Oxford cloth (Sportsman Fall 2020), it was followed by a EU NOS dobby stripe version (Sportsman Fall 2021), an Italian NOS Albini stripe linen edition (Sportsman SS2023), and now available in a Japanese NOS Kuroki double indigo twill (Sportsman Fall 2023.)

The original design of the ARISTOCRAT was inspired by several vintage American and European classic dress shirts and sportswear shirts from our archives.
Our intent was to merge traditional shirting details, revisit old patterns, and simply create an elegant, versatile garment, a modern classic with subtle vintage references.
The connoisseur will notice the nod to gents’ outfitters Turnbull & Asser – and other bespoke shirtmakers – in our choice of “Regent” spread collar shape — dig that subtle curve —although we opted for an unstructured collar construction (no fusing) for a more casual vibe.

We really wanted the single chest pocket design to be 100% MF®, and serve as outside branding, rather than an embroidered logo. Our R&D team got extra cups of brain juice to reinvent the wheel, one that would spin our own yarn, and got to work. Sketches were drawn, prototypes made from scratch, and a eureka moment came sometime in February 2020 when a re-imagined classic pocket finally surfaced from the drafting table: a simple diamond shape with an elegant curved fold and streamlined single-needle stitching.

The specific off-set shirt tail cut, front button placket construction, and double button rounded cuffs, were also thoroughly considered and tweaked until it all worked out for our aesthetics.
The shirred rear panel with its rounded piecing patch is a detail borrowed from early European shirting, and, along with the classic side gussets, add to the refined and subtle vintage appeal of the ARISTOCRAT.

For the silhouette, we opted for a trim fit, adjusting body pattern and side curves to convey broad shoulders and slim waist, balancing with a traditional shirt tail length.

Construction-wise, the US factory did a remarkable job with the stitch count, closely following tech pack for the magic high number, matched by a fine thread gauge. Because of obvious productivity issues, it is often a challenge to convince factory owners of committing to higher-count stitching settings. This can almost double production time (= double production cost), but the results are stunning and always make a garment stand-out next to a more hastily-constructed one. Anyone able to spot a cheap suit will notice the difference.
So, tip of the hat to the family-run local Los Angeles factory that keeps producing our ARISTOCRAT.

The ARISTOCRAT is complimented by genuine mother of pearl buttons, another reference to traditional European bespoke tailoring, while the chainstitch construction (using MF® signature green contrast stitching) brings it down a few notches with a workwear touch (bespoke shirts often feature French seams, not chainstitch.)
The discreet red bartack on the side gusset is a nod to the red stitched “H” of the iconic Hathaway brand, one of the last American shirtmaker to produce shirts in the USA, until they gave up on that endeavor around 2002…

Photos above are a visual round-up of our current ARISTOCRAT family, featuring the latest additions: New Old Stock Albini stripe linen edition (an Italian mill producing fine fabrics since 1876), and its Japan-milled Kuroki double indigo twill sibling. The latter is also photographed next to a “sunshine” prototype that has been sitting in the California sun for a few months as an experiment. The indigo twill fabric developed an amazing chemical-free patina.

All in all, our ARISTOCRAT is a reimagined vintage-style classic dress shirt, versatile, casual, easy go-to garment. Dress it up with a suit or down with a pair of blue jeans, wear it with a tie or open collar, tucked or untucked, all it asks is to not be left out in the closet!

The MF® ARISTOCRAT Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in the USA in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

SPECS:
PATTERN:
Inspired by vintage American and European dress shirts and classic sportswear shirts.

FABRIC:
a) NOS Albini white & blue woven stripe, 100% linen, light weight, breezy, milled in Italy.
b) NOS Kuroki double indigo twill (indigo warp x indigo weft), 100% cotton, 7 oz., solid white selvedge ID, milled in Japan.

DETAILS:
* Classic, versatile, elegant yet casual shirt style.
* Slim and trim silhouette.
* Traditional spread collar with a British flair.
* Original chest pocket design, diamond shape with MF® signature curved fold and streamline pocket stop stitching.
* Rear panel shirring with rounded piecing patch.
* Side gussets.
* Off-set shirt tail lengths (slightly longer rear tail).
* Red bartacks accent on gusset.
* Genuine mother of pearl buttons.
* Double-button rounded cuffs.
* Elegant front button placket pattern.
* High-stitch count and fine thread gauge construction.
* Chainstitch construction with signature inside contrast green stitching.
* Mister Freedom® mfsc “Sportsman” rayon woven label.
* Made in USA.

SIZING/FIT:
The ARISTOCRAT Shirt comes unwashed and is cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry. We recommend this protocol:

Rinse in cold water, machine setting on delicate, full cycle.
Line dry, no heat dryer.

I opted for a Medium for a trim fit. I am 5’7 ~145 lbs. We recommend getting your usual size in MF® shirts, or size up for a more relaxed silhouette.
Please refer to sizing chart for approximate soaked/rinsed measurements.

Christophe Loiron
Mister Freedom®
©2024

Mister Freedom® DRIVER Trousers, double indigo Jelt twill, SS2024 AREA 7161, made in Japan.

“Joe, your ability to take instant naps, even when it rains, will never cease to amaze.”

Mister Freedom® DRIVER Trousers,
mfsc SS2024 AREA 7161 collection.
Made in Japan.

Welcome to AREA 7161, a Mister Freedom® stylistic spin on menswear, with one of the US Government best-kept secret as its historical background: “The Ranch”… Not exactly the dude type, but an uninviting remote location in the Nevada High Desert, some 80 miles from Las Vegas, NV, a mysterious spot better known today as AREA 51.
This classified Top-Secret and highly-restricted area once was a forgotten air strip on natural salt flats located in Groom Lake, Nevada, initially built during WW2 as gunnery range for USAAF pilots. It was secretly reactivated in 1955, codenamed Watertown, as a R&D facility for a range of covert projects.
In this hard-to-access isolated High Desert location, CIA and USAF pilots, Lockheed “Skunk Works” engineers and test pilots, mechanics, …, helped develop and fly U-2 spy planes and their legacy under Project Aquatone.
From mechanics to engineers, clerks to brass, cooks to security guards, everyone involved was on a strict need-to-know basis. And what one needed to know was limited to the scope of the individual’s job. In case anything leaked, ramifications were few, and rumors easily dismissed as nonsense from too much exposure to the pounding 120 degree desert heat. Lockheed radar specialist Edward Lovick recalled: “Once I saw a coyote, chasing a rabbit, and they were both walking.”

Anecdotally, to add an extra layer of secrecy and confusion during internal radio/printed communication, the code term “driver” was used when referring to a test pilot. Back at “Paradise Ranch” in the 1950s, when news that a “driver” was shipping out from Lookheed HQ in Palmdale, CA, to spend some time with the latest Dragon Lady, folks knew it meant an incoming maverick to the compound, i.e. a new U-2 test pilot from “the Industry or Government.”
During local U-2 test flights (what is believed to have triggered a UFO sighting craze in the US at the time) and obviously during covert missions over enemy territories, pilots were instructed not to wear US military uniforms or easy-to-ID gear. Should an unfortunate bailout occur, traceability needed to be kept to a minimum, to prevent communist media/propaganda from exploiting the incident.
(Source Area 51, Annie Jacobsen, 2011.)

With that light Cold War historical background in mind, the Mister Freedom® “DRIVER” Trousers are inspired by a vintage pair of 1950s US Navy Service denim dungarees (to be precise, CONT, DA-30-352TAP-2031, with a “US Naval Reserve Clothing” cloth label hand-sewn next to the bottom hem!), a not-so-common vintage piece from our archives.

We revisited the silhouette and awkward “ballooning” leg of the original, for an attractive 1930s-40s fitted top block and straight wide leg.
If this design oddity didn’t confuse Igor enough, we thought of cutting our Drivers in a non Mil-Specs fabric, a deep dark double indigo “Jelt” selvedge twill, 10 Oz., milled in Japan.
The potential patina on those pants promises to be nothing short of phenomenal with proper wear and occasional wash routine.

The Mister Freedom® DRIVER Trousers are designed in California by Mister Freedom®, and manufactured in Japan in collaboration with Sugar Cane Co.

FABRIC:
Dark double indigo “Jelt” selvedge twill, 100% cotton, 10 Oz., milled in Japan.

SPECS:
* Original mfsc pattern inspired by a vintage pair of 1950s US Navy Service dungarees, with a revisited utilitarian cut and silhouette.
* Period high-waisted style.
* Slash front pockets, self fabric pocket bags.
* Rounded rear patch pockets, USN dungarees style.
* Darted rear panel, no back yoke.
* Waistband utilizing fabric selvedge ID on the inside.
* Painted black brass metal donut buttons for waist & fly, 1940s-style laurel leaf starburst type. Paint will chip with wear.
* Flatlock chainstitch construction throughout, all clean seams.
* Bar-tacked stress points.
* 100% cotton tonal stitching.
* Triple labeling: printed “Experimental Garment” label inside waistband, woven “Area 7161” rayon label on pocket bag, period-style Mil-Specs contract tag outside waistband.
* Made in Japan.

SIZING:
The DRIVER Trousers come UN-WASHED and are cut so that the measurements match the labeling AFTER an initial cold soak/line dry.
We recommend the usual protocol before wearing:

Cold soak for about 30-40mn, with occasional hand agitation.
Machine spin dry and/or line dry.

I went with a W30 for a comfortable fit (5’7 ~145Lbs)
The period fit of the Driver Trousers is somewhat similar to our denim Raiders, with sligthly less taper to the leg opening.

CARE:
Low maintenance, launder when needed.
We recommend turning the garment inside-out to avoid potential marbling of the fabric. Machine wash with cold water, gentle cycle, eco-friendly mild detergent and line dry.

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf® Rock & Roll Shirt, SS2024 “Flying Saucers” edition, AREA 7161 collection. Made in Japan.

Joe Greene, art director…

Not meeting deadlines…

“Yeah, whatever, I don’t look nuthin’ like that pops!”

Mister Freedom® x Sun Surf “Rock’n’Roll” Shirt, SS2024 “FLYING SAUCERS” edition.
AREA 7161 collection.
Made in Japan.

Extra! Extra! Read all about it!
We have the scoop: flying saucers have landed, and it happened right here in California, USA, at Area 7161 a few days ago. As announced on Japanese TV!

Background:
The topic of Unidentified Flying Objects has piqued public’s interest in the US starting in the 1930s…
Soon following America’s involvement in the WW2 conflict, US flyers on combat missions described unexplainable “fireballs” in the sky in both the European and Pacific Theaters. Those unexplained phenomena were coined as “Foo Fighters” at the time, origin of the term somewhat uncertain, maybe related to a popular 1940s comic strip.
In 1947, private pilot Kenneth Arnold’s alleged sighting of nine airborne shiny “boomerangs” helped seal the popular term “flying saucers” and sparked a “flying disc” sighting craze with Americans, not-only eager for exciting news after a draining world war, but reassessing their worldviews in the Atomic Age.
Another major event in ufology, well-publicized since, also happened in 1947. Known as the Roswell incident, this was an alleged UFO crash in a New Mexico desert ranch (Forster Ranch.) It was said that the crashed spaceship included its Alien pilots crew, who, interestingly, had been skilled-enough to travel through space from a distant planet, possessing the proper advanced technology, avoiding all kinds of meteors and space junk on the way, but failed to put on the breaks at the last minute! Go figure. For some, this was a mere weather balloon (or highly-classified surveillance balloon), for others a Russian secret weapon, an alien spaceship, a communist psychological warfare hoax aimed at destabilizing the USA, …, amongst the many interpretations. The event has also been considered as a mysterious military/CIA cover-up.
Some people even believe — to this day — that the crashed Roswell “UFO” spacecraft has been under reverse-engineering in a secret AREA 51 hangar for years, along with the bodies of its large-headed pilots…
It is generally accepted that most 1950s-60s UFO sightings in the USA were, in fact, shiny silver high altitude secret U-2 spy plane prototypes on test flights. But what do I know. My hunch is that the UFO pilots were distracted by all the cool music happening on Earth in the 1940s, and just missed their Roswell landing. Maybe they were staring at their cel phones and crashed?

For a serious historical timeline and much much broader background, Annie Jacobsen’s AREA 51 — a well-researched and fascinating book written in 2011 with an overwhelming amount of declassified intel — is a great read.

Full visuals/ramblings here.

Design inspiration:
We pulled out the old watercolors and brushes for the graphic. The original artwork was inspired by a blend of 1947 Roswell imagery, a twist of Giant Rock in the California High Desert, vintage UFO lore, a bit of imagination and a lot of artistic limitations, all that under the watchful eye of art director Joe Greene, also from another planet. For those interested, plenty making-of photos of the watercoloring process documented in the SS2024 preview.
The clumsy doodle was then translated by our friends and vintage “Aloha shirt” experts at Sun Surf® into a painstakingly-produced fabric print, for an authentic “Hawaiian shirt” feel.

Please note that some R&D/lookbook photos featured on this post show early prototypes (referred to Alpha & Bravo), with a slightly different graphic distribution on the front panels. These A & B protos are not what was produced. To better convey the initially-intended period traditional “vintage Hawaiian shirts” vibe with an authentic “Aloha” style graphic balance, final production (referred to as Charlie & Delta) has been adjusted to an off-set left/right front panel pattern.
Simply put, the desert landscape scene is intentionally out-of-synch on the shirt’s front panels, while it is presented in its uninterrupted glory on the back panel!
Of course, the fabric print of the single chest pocket is in perfect alignment with the body print, aka “matching pocket” in collectors’ jargon.
Fabric printing in Japan is done on traditional machines, using intricate printing procedures. As discussed on a recent CLUTCHMAN TV episode (RnR shirt convo starts at 03:00), a technique known as “overprinting” (necessitating 18 different screens!) had to be used to replicate the color gradation and shading of the original watercolor painting, instead of the somewhat faster “discharge printing” method. As Sugar Cane brand director Fukutomi Sensei mildly put it, “苦労しました” (kurō shimashita = it was not easy.)

For more visuals and heritage Aloha shirts knowledge — especially for one whose “flower shirt” expertise is limited to Magnum PI’s 80s red “Jungle Bird” pattern by Paradise Found — check out Sun Surf® well-documented reference books and current faithful vintage replicas of 1930s~1960s models. If you’re into the “From Here to Eternity” look, Sun Surf® has the goods!
Our friends at Sun Surf® deliver yearly collections under the guidance of Kobayashi San, Toyo Enterprise’s elusive current CEO, an avid and well-respected “aloha-shatsu” museum-quality collector. I tried to snap a current photo of Sacho San during our recent March 2024 mfsc show but he was gone the second I blinked!

On an industry-related note, even in the “slow fashion” world that MF® has opted to partake in since 2007, show samples are always cut/sewn under challenging pressure in order to meet a specific event (aka trade show) deadline. Things get even more challenging when a specific fabric has to be milled, or when a new original fabric print is a major part of the garment design! I’m always late with design directions/graphic submissions, and our friends at Toyo Enterprise will never cease to amaze me at pulling rabbits out of the hat to make things happen.

We started our Mister Freedom® x SUN SURF® collaboration back in 2015, kicking it off with the first of our “Rock & Roll” shirt, the “Action Packed” model, recently-released in black and white. Followed the boppin’ “Rocket 88” edition released during Spring 2016, available in all-cotton ivory, dark navy blue and mint green, a tribute to Rock & Roll’s early fifties roots. Randomly venturing to the burning Sahara sands, destination the French penal colonies of North Africa and their inked-up inmates, we then released the BIRIBI edition during Spring 2018, in white and dark navy.
To compliment our SS2019 mfsc “YUCATÁN” collection (story here), we then designed the “Yucatán Fiesta”, released in black and white.
Epic trips with the fam to Santa Catalina Island — and Dorothy and Otis Shepard — have inspired the Catalina model, in white and black.

In 2024, we are humbled again to have our latest doodle translated into a fancy 1940s-50s style rayon shirt!

The Mister freedom® x Sun Surf “Flying Saucers” Rock & Roll Shirt is designed in California by Mister Freedom® and manufactured in Japan by Sun Surf® and Sugar Cane Co, both divisions of Toyo Enterprise.

SPECS:
FABRIC:
100% rayon fabric, woven and printed in Japan with traditional fabric printing techniques.
Two color options, Charlie (original colorway), and Delta (subdued, “night time” colorway).

DETAILS:
* Limited edition collaboration with the Sun Surf® label.
* Body pattern/cut inspired by classic vintage 1940’s-50’s Aloha shirts.
* All original MF® fabric print, inspired by vintage UFO lore and the 1947 Roswell, NM, “flying saucer” case.
* Fabric printed with “overprinting” method, requiring 18 different color screens to achieve color gradation of original watercolor.
* 1940’s—50’s style open loop collar, aka Arafold-style spread collar.
* Single chest pocket with matching print pattern.
* Brown corozo wood buttons.
* MF® x Sun Surf® “Rock & Roll” woven rayon label and “AREA 7161” double labeling.
* Packaged is a fancy re-usable Sun Surf cardboard shirting box, featuring original MF® artwork inspired by vintage LP covers.
* Made in Japan in limited edition.

SIZING/FIT:
The Rock & Roll Shirt “Flying Saucers” (both Charlie and Delta colorways) comes ready-to-wear right out of the box. No need to soak.
We adopted the time-tested sizing of Sun Surf®’s Aloha shirts for this garment.
I wear a Medium in most mfsc shirting, and opted for a very comfortable Medium in this edition. True to size, not intended to be worn tight, or tucked-in, unless you’re very daring and hip.
See sizing chart for approximate measurements, measured straight out of the packaging box.

CARE:
We recommend professional dry clean only, in your local eco-friendly facility.
Delicate hand-washing in cold water with mild detergent + line dry is also an option.
Do NOT use machine/heat dryer.

Available from www.misterfreedom.com, our Los Angeles red brick HQ, and fine retailers around the World.
Email sales@misterfreedom.com or call 323-653-2014 with any questions unanswered above.
Thank you for your support,