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MFSC “Les Apaches” Spring 2011 Collection: Introducing the CHEMISE FANTAISIE (ie. fancy shirt)
Just in, some fancy shirting for the Apache in you 😉
Inspired by French gent garb from 1900’s to 1930’s, the chemise fantaisie will put some fancy threads on your back. The fabrics were painstakingly developped in Japan from vintage textiles swatches and turn of the century shirting samples. The pattern is based on early silhouettes and vintage prototypes, with the usual MF® creative spin and early American influence.
Detachable collar type (aka. stand collar), fancy shearing, european tailoring single needle construction, NOS glass buttons… the works.
Nice as a fancy addition to your favorite blue jeans, under a gilet de ville, or… as a better way to paint the town than the usual chambrays.
Along with other things we make, this MFSC Chemise Fantaisie “is what it is” (ie. not life style changing…) and it’s up to you to make it look good. If you are reading this, you should not have any problems doing so…
SPECS
PATTERN: An all original MFSC pattern, inspired by early European fancy shirting. Because of the back yoke shearing, the cut is a bit wider than our MFSC 645 Utility Chambrays.
FABRIC: Three options, milled in limited batch. Unwashed and un-sanforized.
* BLEU CALICO: Blue colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., tightly woven brocade jacquard with subtle calico print (discharge and navy colour).
* BLANC CALICO: White colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., tightly woven brocade jacquard with subtle calico print (rust colour).
* ROUGE GARANCE: Natural/beige colour base, all cotton broadcloth 3.5 Oz., printed with a madder red (aka “Turkey Red”) calico print.
BUTTONS: Authentic French 1900′s-1930′s New Old Stock glass buttons, also referred to as boutons Briare, because of their regional origin. Those buttons are RARE (you can find small quantities of them here and there, but finding enough for a whole collection was no easy task), but we even put an extra one stitched to the inside care label… Because of the very involved process of manufacturing this type of glass buttons, production has stopped in the 1940’s in France.
COLLAR: Detachable type, held by fancy metal “collar studs”. Original collar studs were usually made of bone, ivory or porcelaine for off the shelf shirting. One would get a set of fancy studs of their liking at the Haberdashery store, along with a tie clip and cuff links… You can shmEbay them.
Very often, the removable collars were lost and this type of stand collar shirts are often seen worn without them on old photographs (the charpentiers below are not Apaches, nor fancy dandies, but some of them DID lose their collars…)
 French quarrymen (Photo © Collection Roger-Viollet) DETAILS:
* Button placket extended tab, to button to your breeches waist button, so the shirt stays tucked in.
* Sheared back yoke and wrist cuffs.
* White cotton popeline button placket contrast facing.
* Passe Cravate loop in back shoulder yoke, to secure tie or scarf.
* Very high stitch count all cotton stitching.
* Extended tucked in buttoned “belly flap”.
* French style side gussets.
* Single needle tailoring construction, no chain stitch.
SIZING:
Again, labeled in French: 35 (XS), 37 (S), 39 (M), 41 (L), 45 (XL)
Click on chart below for RAW and after rinse and hang dry measurements (t.
Limited Edition, designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
A) Chemise Fantaisie BLEU CALICO
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL, XXL
Retail $399.95
B) Chemise Fantaisie BLANC CALICO
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Retail $399.95
B) Chemise Fantaisie ROUGE GARANCE
Available Sizes XS, S, M, L, XL
Call (323) 653-2014 or mail sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you all dearly for your support.
Mister Freedom® CASQUETTE La “Deffe”
No, I didn’t find the secret coveted stash of New Old Stock French 1920’s-30’s caps in an abandoned Parisian storage room… (where ARE those caps??? Every single gent owned at least one back then, but they are nowhere to be found today, as any vintage hound knows.)
What I did find last year was an awesome batch of NOS French wool/tweed & linings, a rare 20’s-30’s grouping of fabrics. All coming from an haberdashery manufacturer from Northern France, that had been around since the early 1920’s and closed its doors in the mid 1960’s.
We have some of the amazing clothes (mainly suiting) that came with this loot at the MF® store now. Some of which are now seen on screen (HBO Boardwalk Empire…)
So. We figured out how to make them, the same way they were made back then. The pattern is inspired by early french men’s casquettes, different from the newspaper boy cap, the US version of it.
The name “Deffe” is one of the many colourful Apache slang for headgear. Originally, a hat manufacturer called DESFOUX (located near Pont-Neuf, Paris) made silk caps favored by butchers, pimps and gangsters since 1878. ” Une Desfoux” became “une deffe” in french argot…
Some documentation can be found in the amazing 1930’s underworld studies written by Mr. Emile Chautard, who apparently spent more time in dives drinking absinthe with unorthodox characters than behind a desk sipping tea (“La vie étrange de l’Argot“, 1931). Many of Chautard insightful accounts have influenced our latest MFSC Apaches collection.
The casquette was worn slouched on the side of the head, straight was for squares. Bold fabric patterns, contrasting colours, mismatching weaves were the thing.
Calico shirt, red silk scarf, pied de poule deffe… you get the picture (or Brassaï did, when he shot la bande du Grand Albert in 1931…)
For the few who managed to read this far down, much obliged, so here are the specs of Mister Freedom® Casquette la “Deffe”!
SPECS
PATTERN: Original Mister Freedom® single panel pattern, typical of 1920’s-30’s French gents’ caps.
FABRIC: 100 year old New Old Stock (NOS) French fabrics. Variety of all wool patterns, weave and colours. Solid, tweeds, herringbone, houndstooth in very limited quantities. (See last photo for an idea of how the fabric rolls looked like when found.)
LINING: NOS 1930’s sturdy black rayon and/or moleskine, printed with Mister Freedom® original artwork.
DETAILS:
* Kangaroo leather sweatband
* Decorative crown strap, secured by 1900’s french NOS glass buttons
* Snap-up brim (vintage United Carr snap).
* All hand made in MF® Los Angeles atelier, by happy skilled artisans, while listening to good music.
SIZE: The can of worms…Few random sizes available, from about 57 cm to 60cm.
We use only one pattern, and due to variation in fabric thickness, fluctuating seam allowance, the crown size also varies sligthly +/- a few milimeters. No two casquettes are exactly the same.
57cm is close to US hat size 7 1/8
60cm is close to US hat size 7 1/2
CARE: Professional Hat cleaner Dry Cleaning ONLY, if needed. Do NOT wash.
Designed by Mister Freedom® and made in California in a limited edition.
From +/- 57 cm to +/- 60cm
Retail: $ 199.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email sales@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Thank you for your support.
Courtesy of Monsieur Patrick Segui, the artist behind the paintbrush of our Apache collection boxtops artwork, check out this amazing photo of Grand-Père Segui (left) in 1931.
Photographed in “Alger-la-Blanche”, Algeria, then a French colony, this shot conveys the local street style of the Pépé le Moko generation. Deffe & all! A rare photograph of a young man who went on to join the ranks of the famed Zouaves and bravely fought his way through WW2.
Patrick’s original post here.
MFSC “Les Apaches” Spring 2011 Collection: Introducing ‘ze’ Pantalon Apache!
I know. We’re late. But the deliveries from our Japanese partners have been quite delayed this season, for obvious reasons. We don’t really mind the delay, since our MFSC collections do not follow trends, seasons or reason.
So here they are, ’em anticipated stripey breeches!
Inspired by turn of the century to 1930′s French tailor-made gent garb, our Pantalon Apache come in three different fabric options. Woven in Japan exclusively for MFSC, the fabrics were developed from vintage swatches and samples of 100 year old textiles from our archives. They are not replicas, as we changed some yarn colour combinations, tones and texture, giving them our trademark twist. The fabrics are 100% cotton, making them drape and feel the way we wanted. They were a real endeavour to mill and had some people pulling their hair in the process…
The trousers can be matched with our Gilet de Ville, cut from the same cloth. Throw a Veste Ouvrier on top to dress them down, or a vintage leather coat or blazer… Also great with a simple white Marcel (French slang for tank-top undershirt, aka “wife-beater”, no offense Mesdemoiselles), for the BBQ months. Add your own vintage buttons to hook-up your suspenders. Dress shoes, motorcycle boots or clunky old work shoes… Work it out pally! Nice break from the daily denim accoutrement.
Check out our friend “Mr. French CanCan“, aka Vilbo Jr. from Toulouse, interresting 5 part retrospective on the Parisian Apache culture. Great read and photos for inspiration.
SPECS:
PATTERN: Original MFSC pattern, inspired by early French tailor-made suiting. 1930’s silhouette with higher-rise and fuller legs.
FABRIC: Milled in Japan, in small limited batches, exclusive to MFSC. The three options are NOT an alternate colour way of the same woven fabric, rather three totally differently woven fabrics as follow:
* GREY COVERT STRIPE: 10 Oz., all cotton, double cloth, 6 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* INDIGO STRIPE BLUE: 8 Oz., all cotton, 7 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
* COVERT STRIPE BROWN: 8 Oz., all cotton, 5 different coloured yarns, white selvedge.
WAIST & POCKET LINING: All cotton MFSC stripe ticking and original MFSC Métisse 50% cotton/50% Linen plain weave, indigo dyed and black pigment coated.
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozo natural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900’s to 1940’s).
DETAILS:
*Side adjustement slide buckle straps, with original NOS French metal hardware.
* Two back pocket with button dart flaps.
* Concealed waist hook, original NOS French metal hardware.
* “V” belt loops.
* “American” cuffs.
CONSTRUCTION: Tailor type single needle. 100% Cotton thread, oxidized black/brown colour.
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer, this gilet de ville, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops. Yo Captain, ain’t ya tired of ze plug???…it’s just that we REALLY love ’em boxes!
SHRINKAGE: All fabric options are RAW and unwashed, and will shrink and torque lightly with cold delicate wash/hang dry (about 1 to 2%). As you wouldn’t throw a suit in the washer (or shouldn’t, should one get the urge to do so), this pantalon Apache, although washable, should be treated with TLC.
All three fabric have different shrinkage specs, so RAW measurements of a same size will differ slightly from on cloth to another. After rinse and dry all three trousers options will fit the same.
SIZING: The Apache collection is sized and labelled in french…
Click on chart below for Raw/Rinsed measurements (we do our best to measure accurately, but although sober, three different people measuring will come up with three different results… so the chart is APPROXIMATE):
Limited Edition, designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM®, manufactured in Japan by SUGAR CANE CO.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Waist US 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Retail $549.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. We thank you for your support in helping us continue making clothes we like, and not what others do.
MFSC Spring 2011 “Les Apaches“: Pantalon Ouvrier (workman’s trousers)
We are very happy to have the fourth installment of our MFSC spring Apaches collection finaly in ze house!
Inspired but late 1800’s – 1900’s French military bourgerons trousers (often made of HBT natural colour linen) and early French workers garb, our Pantalon Ouvrier falls into the “denim” part of the collection. The trousers are available in two fabric options: Métisse Indigo dyed twill and Indigo Stripe ticking, both inspired by early French workwear textiles, then the Old World equivalent to American denim.
The silhouette is reminiscent of turn of the century imagery, a slimmer type fit, narrower legs with a higher rise.
You can make them look ‘dressy’ or ouvrier, according to what you pair them with…
SPECS:
PATTERN: An all original MFSC pattern and fit, inspired by early french work pants and military issued chore trousers.
FABRIC: Two options (fabrics loomed in Japan exclusively for MFSC):
A) INDIGO Métisse: 9.7 oz. indigo dyed twill blend, 70% cotton and 30% linen, un-sanforized. The yarn core is white, the indigo outer has a purple blue shade typical of early french indigo work clothes. Fades, bleeds and reacts to sun light…
B) INDIGO Rayure (ticking): 8 oz. indigo/white warp and black weft striped twill, herringbone weave, white selvedge, un-sanforized (respectfully lifted from a late 1800′s swatch of french textile). Fades…
BUTTONS: Original MFSC Corozonatural wood buttons. (aka “vegetable ivory”, corozo buttons where an hi-end option for suiting from the 1900′s to 1940′s). “MFSC déposé” engraved buttons combination.
SUSPENDERS: The trousers come with matching fabric removable suspenders, inspired by overalls straps.
HARDWARE: NOS original French hook secure waist closure. Buckle back with our NOS sharp prong buckle (guaranteed to blahhh).
BACK GUSSET: Contrast indigo dyed popeline.
POCKETING: Two front slash pockets, one watch pocket, two back slash pockets secured by button ‘dart flap’.
Pocket lining is with contrast fabric (métisse for the ticking body, and ticking with the métisse body… try that for the King’s Speech part.)
PACKAGING: The garment comes in an individual old school chipboard box, exclusive to MF.
The original oil painting was masterfully executed by Mr. PATRICK SEGUI of RIVETED blog fame, and a paper print of his artwork is featured on the Apache Collection box tops.
WASHING: Both fabric option come RAW/unwashed, and will shrink lightly with washing/drying. Your trousers will fade overtime, according to wear. Remember that you do not get good ‘wear marks’ from washing but from wearing.
I recommend an initial quick cold soak, without agitation, to initiate original shrinkage and hang dry.
Then, when needed, cold delicate wash, minimal eco-friendly detergent and hang dry.
DO NOT get a size up and BOIL them when you realize they are not skinny jeans.
MF® does not make skinny jeans…
SIZING & SHRINKAGE: The trousers are labeled and marked in French.
We measured the trousers with the back gusset fully open. A fully close gusset (with maximun back strap cinching) reduces the waist by about 1 and half inch all around.
Click on chart below to see RAW and RINSED measurements (missing measurements will be updated asap.)
LIMITED EDITION. Garment designed in California by MISTER FREEDOM® and manufactured in Japan by Sugar Cane Co.
Available RAW (unwashed)
Sizes 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38
Indigo Métisse (solid): Retail $599.95
Indigo Rayure Ticking (stripe): Retail $549.95
Call John or Jordan at (323) 653-2014 or Email john@misterfreedom.com or jordan@misterfreedom.com to get yours while they last. We ship internationally. Thank you for your support.
NOTE:
The métisse and ticking pantalons ouvrier featured in the above photos have been WORN on/off for about 2 months, washed cold about 5 times, minimal soap, hang dry. NFS. Production trousers are NOT distressed and are available UNWASHED only.
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